View Full Version : anodizing or painting timing wheel
speedjunkie
02-17-2011, 01:56 AM
I'm thinking about either painting or anodizing (I'd rather anodize actually) the wheel that the CAS reads off of but I want to make sure it won't have any adverse effects on timing or anything. I'm not sure how they are coated from the factory but I'm sure there is something on there since they are green. Does anyone have any idea if painting or anodizing it would hurt anything? I figure anodizing would be less of an issue since you're essentially just staining the metal instead of covering it with paint, since it reads with magnetism. But I could be wrong on all this haha.
Signal 2
02-17-2011, 07:17 AM
I painted my trigger wheel a few years ago and noticed no ill-effects. It's magnetic, so after sanding off the OEM coating I went very light around the tabs. I've seen no ill effects. I would think anodizing would have even less effect than the OEM coating.
speedjunkie
02-17-2011, 08:55 AM
Cool. That's what I figured but I just wanted to check. I figured if anything I'd just sand off the back of the tab completely. Thanks!
RETed
02-17-2011, 09:51 AM
Anodize / anodizing implies aluminum.
I don't think that wheel is made out of aluminum?
It's most likely plated (i.e. "cad plated") or coated.
-Ted
Signal 2
02-17-2011, 11:06 AM
Anodize / anodizing implies aluminum.
I don't think that wheel is made out of aluminum?
-Ted
Your right, forgot that. The OP won't be able to anodize the steel trigger wheel.
speedjunkie
02-17-2011, 02:59 PM
Damn haha. I didn't know you could only anodize aluminum. Thanks for clearing that up. I wonder if I could get it re-plated then.
Signal 2
02-17-2011, 05:05 PM
If you REALLY want to make it shine I guess chrome would be an option.
speedjunkie
02-19-2011, 04:11 AM
I don't want to make it shine though, I'm trying to turn everything black. I've even thought about sandblasting my aftermarket pulleys and anodizing them. I believe they're aluminum anyway haha.
Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll look into plating for the non-aluminum stuff then.
Garfinkles Motor Works
02-19-2011, 09:45 AM
Mine is power coated and I sanded the back side of the tabs alittle to be sure the siginal was not weak . That was 6-7 years ago .
TitaniumTT
02-19-2011, 09:54 AM
I don't want to make it shine though, I'm trying to turn everything black.
:suspect:
speedjunkie
02-19-2011, 10:33 PM
Mine is power coated and I sanded the back side of the tabs alittle to be sure the siginal was not weak . That was 6-7 years ago .
OK, maybe I'll do that too. Thanks!
:suspect:
What is that look for? LOL I've wanted to do this for several years, I just finally got the opportunity and money at the same time to do it haha.
Prodigy
02-19-2011, 11:15 PM
I think it would look good, I hate how my pullies all look a nice neutral weathered color, then my greddy pullies are anodized light blue, looks so tacky... But I'll care about theta more once it's running good, take care of ascetics later... First I want more power, and a good tune to go with it... BDC anyone....?
Lol
J.
speedjunkie
02-19-2011, 11:22 PM
^Yeah that's where I am now. I have some time during the engine rebuild so I figured I'd go ahead and take care of the color swap while I'm at it.
BDC LOL!!
TitaniumTT
02-19-2011, 11:30 PM
I think it would look good, I hate how my pullies all look a nice neutral weathered color, then my greddy pullies are anodized light blue, looks so tacky... But I'll care about theta more once it's running good, take care of ascetics later... First I want more power, and a good tune to go with it... BDC anyone....?
Lol
J.
Get ahead of the curve, walk to the street, get a few pounds of road salt, remove air filter, rev to 8k, pour sand into engine.
What is that look for? LOL I've wanted to do this for several years, I just finally got the opportunity and money at the same time to do it haha.
:rofl: Uh huh,....... couldn't be when I opened the hood you went, wow that really does look good ;)
Prodigy
02-20-2011, 12:02 AM
Get ahead of the curve, walk to the street, get a few pounds of road salt, remove air filter, rev to 8k, pour sand into engine
Hey I can do that myself, and it's cheaper!!!!! No need to supply your own datalogit either :rofl:
J.
RETed
02-20-2011, 12:03 AM
I don't want to make it shine though, I'm trying to turn everything black. I've even thought about sandblasting my aftermarket pulleys and anodizing them. I believe they're aluminum anyway haha.
Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll look into plating for the non-aluminum stuff then.
I believe there's a black cadmium plating option if you're looking for black.
-Ted
speedjunkie
02-20-2011, 02:15 AM
:rofl: Uh huh,....... couldn't be when I opened the hood you went, wow that really does look good ;)
Actually to be completely honest, no. A few years ago I decided to go all black, including under the hood, but until last year for the body and this year for the engine bay (since I have the engine out anyway) I didn't feel like stripping the car down to paint it LOL. Your engine bay does look good though haha.
Hey I can do that myself, and it's cheaper!!!!! No need to supply your own datalogit either :rofl:
J.
LOL!!!
I believe there's a black cadmium plating option if you're looking for black.
-Ted
Awesome, thanks! I'll check into that. Hopefully someone around here can do it.
speedjunkie
03-01-2011, 03:54 AM
So it looks like I'll be getting all the brackets and such electroless nickel plated. They will still conduct electricity so I shouldn't have any trouble grounding the pieces and I was told the trigger wheel won't have any problem feeding info to the crank angle sensors. I'll post up pics when completed.
I also got all my IC piping, manifolds and elbow powder coated and got the LIM and exhaust parts re-ceramic coated. Pic attached.
TitaniumTT
03-01-2011, 08:52 AM
NICE! LOVE IT!!! Can't wait to see her again. Who did the coating? SportTuner?
I'm going to have my the trigger wheels for my speed sensors Zinc plated I think. Who is doing the electroless nickle plating?
To_Slow
03-01-2011, 12:22 PM
Zinc plating is your best option, I offer the service gold or clear.
Min 100.00$ considering all parts are pre cleaned sand blasted.
That will include allot more than just a timing wheel.
I also offer anodizing to. min is 100.00$
Hope that helps..
http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/7877/bolts001.jpg (http://img602.imageshack.us/i/bolts001.jpg/)
Thanks
speedjunkie
03-02-2011, 02:49 AM
NICE! LOVE IT!!! Can't wait to see her again. Who did the coating? SportTuner?
I'm going to have my the trigger wheels for my speed sensors Zinc plated I think. Who is doing the electroless nickle plating?
I took all the stuff to a place in Denver, Premier Coatings (http://www.denverpowdercoating.com/).
I guess he just changed his website, it didn't look like that just a few days again. Anyway, he's a good guy. I got everything done for $400.
As for the electroless...I dropped off all the pieces Monday to a place here in C Springs, Ximpak (http://www.ximpak.com/), but they were going to charge me $190 and they were backed up a couple weeks. There is another place in town that said they could do electroless nickel and they could have it done in 3 days and a lot cheaper, so I picked up the parts from Ximpak and dropped it off at Finishes Limited (http://finishesltd.com/) today. But as it turns out they can't do electroless nickel in black, so I decided to get the steel oxidized black and the aluminum anodized black. The only problem is the alternator casing and the PS/AC bracket have steel pieces in them that I have to get out before they can be anodized and I'm not sure that's possible. In any case, the oxidizing will cost $60 and the anodizing will be $65, so I'm saving quite a bit of money. I've thought about just getting the aluminum (stuff for anodizing) just powder coated instead though. Zico works at a place here in town that shares a building with a powder coating place that will give him a discount. I still need to get the water pump, pump housing and filler neck all done still anyway. I'd also like to get the PS pump done but I'm not sure there is a way to do it that won't do some damage to it somehow.
Zinc plating is your best option, I offer the service gold or clear.
Min 100.00$ considering all parts are pre cleaned sand blasted.
That will include allot more than just a timing wheel.
I also offer anodizing to. min is 100.00$
Hope that helps..
http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/7877/bolts001.jpg (http://img602.imageshack.us/i/bolts001.jpg/)
Thanks
Thanks for the offer, but I want to get this stuff done locally. Plus I want all black anyway.
Just out of curiosity though, why is zinc plating the best? I don't know much about all the different options. I did a search on them but there was so much info I just didn't have time to read it all.
TitaniumTT
03-02-2011, 07:50 AM
I took all the stuff to a place in Denver, Premier Coatings (http://www.denverpowdercoating.com/).
I guess he just changed his website, it didn't look like that just a few days again. Anyway, he's a good guy. I got everything done for $400.
As for the electroless...I dropped off all the pieces Monday to a place here in C Springs, Ximpak (http://www.ximpak.com/), but they were going to charge me $190 and they were backed up a couple weeks. There is another place in town that said they could do electroless nickel and they could have it done in 3 days and a lot cheaper, so I picked up the parts from Ximpak and dropped it off at Finishes Limited (http://finishesltd.com/) today. But as it turns out they can't do electroless nickel in black, so I decided to get the steel oxidized black and the aluminum anodized black.
Cool, some of my parts may be there shortly as well, as soon as they get cut. Looking for some black as well on the steel trigger wheels I'm getting cut.
The only problem is the alternator casing and the PS/AC bracket have steel pieces in them that I have to get out before they can be anodized and I'm not sure that's possible. In any case, the oxidizing will cost $60 and the anodizing will be $65, so I'm saving quite a bit of money. I've thought about just getting the aluminum (stuff for anodizing) just powder coated instead though. Zico works at a place here in town that shares a building with a powder coating place that will give him a discount.
You might just want to have all those piece ceramic coated so they match the other pieces that you had done. I made the mistake a few years ago of sending all my intake and exhaust pieces out to get ceramic coated, then I powdercoated all the other brackets etc etc myself. Two different blacks, I wasn't pleased. Now everything that I powdercoated, I need to re-powdercoat with a different black.... which is fine as alot of the powder coated got beat up. So hopefully I can match it all this time around with the exception of the HMIC frame and the heatshield for the fuel cell. Niether of those I can fit in my over.
I still need to get the water pump, pump housing and filler neck all done still anyway. I'd also like to get the PS pump done but I'm not sure there is a way to do it that won't do some damage to it somehow.
I don't think there is a way as the heat will probably do some damage to the internals. RattlecanJohnny to the rescue for me for the WP. Housing I coated though
Just out of curiosity though, why is zinc plating the best? I don't know much about all the different options. I did a search on them but there was so much info I just didn't have time to read it all.
I'd be curious as well. My thinking is electrical conductivity or corrosian resistance.
To_Slow
03-02-2011, 11:49 AM
I'd be curious as well.
My thinking is electrical conductivity or corrosian resistance.
That is correct...
speedjunkie
03-02-2011, 08:53 PM
I dropped off a few more pieces to get oxidized today.
-the bracket that holds the clutch line to the firewall
-the metal brake booster line and the clamp that bolts it to the firewall
-the box that the stock coils are mounted in (I've decided to move them back to the stock location).
Cool, some of my parts may be there shortly as well, as soon as they get cut. Looking for some black as well on the steel trigger wheels I'm getting cut.
You might just want to have all those piece ceramic coated so they match the other pieces that you had done. I made the mistake a few years ago of sending all my intake and exhaust pieces out to get ceramic coated, then I powdercoated all the other brackets etc etc myself. Two different blacks, I wasn't pleased. Now everything that I powdercoated, I need to re-powdercoat with a different black.... which is fine as alot of the powder coated got beat up. So hopefully I can match it all this time around with the exception of the HMIC frame and the heatshield for the fuel cell. Niether of those I can fit in my over.
I don't think there is a way as the heat will probably do some damage to the internals. RattlecanJohnny to the rescue for me for the WP. Housing I coated though
You're sending your stuff to Premier or you're just saying you're doing the same thing?
Well my engine is going to be black and gunmetal/dark grey, so if there are a few shades of black/grey I won't mind HAHA. They said if it was anodized it would come out a little lighter than black, but that's OK. I'm still thinking about just getting all the remaining stuff powdercoated though. So would powder coating damage the water pump too? Is that what you're saying?
That is correct...
Gotcha.
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