Info on Filters. Oil, fuel, air.

[N.RotaryTech]

This has been of interest to me for awhile.
I think it would be good to have a thread about this. I searched a little bit but found nothing.

But anyway lets get started.
Oil filters:
I've cut some apart to see how there designed inside.
A Mazda, Purolator, and a Fram filters. (The Fram is off some other car but the other two are off a rotary.)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x70/RotaryTech/DSC_0012-4.jpg

Mazda. (Soaked with oil.)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x70/RotaryTech/DSC_0011-6.jpg

Purolator.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x70/RotaryTech/DSC_0008-5.jpg

Fram.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x70/RotaryTech/DSC_0009-4.jpg

IMO, I like the way Mazda and Purolator are designed, but Purolator is cheaper ($).


Anyone have any more/other info on filters? Feel free to share.

[IH8DSM]

This is what ive seen, fram shouldn't be in this at all, it doesnt have a check valve in it so the way they mount on a rotary once the oil stops flowing all that dirt and particles the filter has caught now leak back into the motor. Fram for a rotary sucks

purolator or mazda would be the only filters id run both are very good, im sure the purolator is a little better then a oem filter but i wouldn't swear to it.

as for fuel i run the ones i get from mazda and a mr gasket one from advanced (im carb'd)

and oil castrol 20-50 change it every 3,000 miles, 2,000 if you beat on it a lot. All oils I've tried, castrol 10-30 broke down to quick, supertech (walmart) 20-50 also broke down to quick i use it as break in oil so at 500 miles pulled the plug and it was like water, those are the ones ive tried, stay with castrol 20-50 theres a reason its on the race cars

[rdgt99]

Interesting. How many miles on the Mazda and Puralotor? Were they taken off same motor?

[TitaniumTT]

I like Mobil1 oil filters.

What I need to do is order a case of Mazda oil filters and be done with it.

[IH8DSM]

that doesnt look like a purolator for a mazda but i could be wrong,

[djmtsu]

I use Beck/Arnley :)

[C. Ludwig]

This is what ive seen, fram shouldn't be in this at all, it doesnt have a check valve in it so the way they mount on a rotary once the oil stops flowing all that dirt and particles the filter has caught now leak back into the motor. Fram for a rotary sucks


While I will agree that Fram has a poor reputation and I avoid them, your scenario is not accurate. The check valve only ensures that oil is held in the filter to avoid dry starts. The "dirt and particles" that might be entering the engine from the cooler come in through the bottom of the rear iron, up the iron to the middle of the filter, through the media, out of the filter, and down to the rear main. The only way for the bad stuff to get to critical parts of the engine is through the filter media (whether the engine is running or not). There is no possible way for it to "leak back into the motor".

[N.RotaryTech]

The cut-up Purolator filter actually might be off some other car as well.
I cut-up the Purolator and Fram filters years ago.

Btw: I never liked Fram.

[Barry Bordes]

While I will agree that Fram has a poor reputation and I avoid them, your scenario is not accurate. The check valve only ensures that oil is held in the filter to avoid dry starts. The "dirt and particles" that might be entering the engine from the cooler come in through the bottom of the rear iron, up the iron to the middle of the filter, through the media, out of the filter, and down to the rear main. The only way for the bad stuff to get to critical parts of the engine is through the filter media (whether the engine is running or not). There is no possible way for it to "leak back into the motor".

I think you meant to say that the oil comes into the side ports of the filter and clean filtered oil is fed through the center.

Also any "dirty oil" from the inlet is also poised at the bypass valve (directly below it in the pan) ready to contaminate your cleaned oil if the bypass is opened during cold start-up. If you have a direct reading gauge you will see this happen at about 105-110 PSI (3rd Gen). During warm-up it is important to try to avoid this.

Barry

[t_g_farrell]

Ok, heres link to a very well done study done by someone thats very methodical
to say the least. The original version was done almost 10 years ago but has been
updated since. This guy covers almost anything you may end up discussing
here. Read up, its a great resource and learning experience. This is one of the
reasons I started using Mobil 1 filters instead of paying more for K&N and so
forth.

This is a link to the complete study.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

Heres a link to the good stuff on general retail filters.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

[N.RotaryTech]

^Good find. Thats cool.

Here are some Purolator filters for the rotary.
A Pure One and a oil soaked Premium plus.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x70/RotaryTech/DSC_0004-4.jpg

[calculon]

Too bad there's nothing on Canton filters in there.

[C. Ludwig]

I think you meant to say that the oil comes into the side ports of the filter and clean filtered oil is fed through the center.

Also any "dirty oil" from the inlet is also poised at the bypass valve (directly below it in the pan) ready to contaminate your cleaned oil if the bypass is opened during cold start-up. If you have a direct reading gauge you will see this happen at about 105-110 PSI (3rd Gen). During warm-up it is important to try to avoid this.

Barry


I knew I would get that wrong. :)

Any dirty oil that is bypassed by either regulator is just falling back into the pan with the rest of the dirty oil. Not sure I see the issue there.

[IH8DSM]

Ok from what I've always seen oil comes through the big hole that's a thread stud that the oil filter attaches to it goes through that big hole and is forced through the filter and then to drain after that which means all the particles are still on the inside of the filter so when your car turns off it flushes back into the motor. I could have this completely backwards but for some reason I thought this was correct.

[vex]

From 2-2 in the FSM it looks like the freshly cleaned oil goes directly to lubrication of parts. I doubt very much the filter is cleaning oil just to be dumped back in to the oil pan.

[TitaniumTT]

http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/b-engprt/93-95OilFilterMount3S.jpg

REW pedastal. Oil from the oil coolers enters the sides. Flows up the filter, through the element and down center port.

[cewrx7r1]

Overtime Mazda changed their filters for the FD as they reduced inventory by consolidation of similar parts into less required parts. Thus our filters become smaller in diameter.

Doing research I came up with this that I used. It is the original diameter which gives more filtering area and less back pressure. It also has been rated in the top in filter tests.

Purolator PureOne Oil Filter
PL14459: RP = 12-15psi diff, ht = 2.95", wt = 3.15", anti drain back

It use to be painted metallic blue and is now non-slip dull mustard.