Component tweeter installation locations on an FC

[Pete_89T2]

Has anyone managed to add component tweeters to thier FC by installing them where that plastic triangle trim piece goes on the doors? If so, please share your how-to info and pictures if possible.

I'm thinking of tackling such a project to improve the sound system of my FC; I had no luck finding any pre-fab mounting solutions, but figure it wouldn't be to hard to come up with a decent DIY solution that looks stock.

Thanks,
Pete

[project86]

I think FC3SMurray did. Shoot him a PM

[JustJeff]

I have some Boston Pro tweets mounted on the door panel in front of that trim. Mine came with pods all you'd have to do..if your's have pods, is sink a single screw into the panel

[LunchboxCritter]

I believe he's wanting to flush mount them. I know that I would.

[Pete_89T2]

I believe he's wanting to flush mount them. I know that I would.

Flush mounting isn't necessary, and I'm guessing not easy since you don't have much depth to work with under the plastic triangle. I'd be ok with a pod mount, as long as it could be made to look like it belonged there in the first place. The factory sound system on my '03 Protege5 has its tweeters in the same general location, and they do stick out maybe 3/4" but don't look tacked on - a similar setup in the '7 would do the trick.

Here's a picture of how the stock tweeters look in my Protege5, along with a picture of the triangle door trim I'm referring to on my FC where I want to mount the tweeters.

[totpkg]

Hummm .... I have had several 2nd gens with different sets of tweets mounted in 3 different locations.
first was flush mounted in front of plastic triangle on that "flat spot" (1" Infinity's)
second was flush mounted on the metal piece where the windshield and dash
meet ... (1" CDT tweets)
and third was behind the vent in the door .... (1" Boston Pro set-up) with
the 6.5" in the door.
by far the set-up inside the vent was the most difficult, but the best sounding ... prob 'cause the Boston Pro was the best speakers, and they were pointed closer to my ear.
I hate the 6.5's in the door ... but no other location really avail on the 'vert ...
on my coupe I made a bucket to fit in the towers ...
If I could post pics ... I would on the tweet locaton that I have now ...

KK

[JustJeff]

My vert has all Boston Pros. Amazing speakers for the money. I've got 6" in the doors, tweets in the pods on the door in front of the triangles. I've got 4" under the dash. I've got an 8" under the rear deck.

I've also got a set of 5" that I"m thinking of creating boxes and mounting them firing out of the rear deck from behind the seats. Alot of the music I listen to is surround sound and it kills me having no rear speakers.

I'm surprised how much fill the 4" under the dash adds. I had never used those factory locations cause of how poorly they are located. But it really does help fill. Though I do have the gains on the amp pushing those speakers turned way down.

I thought about making some sort of flush mount for my tweets like other have talked about. But I really like how the pods allow me to direct the sound. They really sound excellent there and the pods look right at home where they are. For me it wasn't worth the effort of fabbing up tweet mounts.

[TitaniumTT]

If you look close, you can see where I mounted mine. They are under the plastic mirror trim, on the flat spot on the door panel just behind the vent. They are angles and the sound is pretty damn good. Alpine 6.5" components with some pretty trick mounting.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36366&d=1162407820

[Pete_89T2]

If you look close, you can see where I mounted mine. They are under the plastic mirror trim, on the flat spot on the door panel just behind the vent. They are angles and the sound is pretty damn good. Alpine 6.5" components with some pretty trick mounting.

Nice setup Brian, did the angle rings come with the speakers? I'm guessing you just drilled a hole for the wires, and either screw or adhesive mount the tweeter base to the door panel?

What I've been thinking of doing is a surface mount on the plastic triangle piece itself, with angle rings to point the tweeters towards the driver/passenger. Since the plastic triangle piece is a bit flimsy as-is - it won't support a tweeter's base mounting screws all that well and one of mine is cracked anyway, the thought was I could laminate a piece of 1/8" thick sheet plastic (acrylic or ABS will do) to the its outer surface to beef it up. Then shape the edges of the now thicker triangle piece with a dremel/sander to make it look stock and paint it to match interior. This would provide a stiff surface to mount the tweeters to. Best part is the design is portable - if you want to get rid of them for any reason, or put them in another FC project, just pop them out and replace with another stock triangle piece.

Pete

[TitaniumTT]

Thanks Pete. Yeah, those rings came with the tweeters. They're actually flushish mounted. Meaning I cut an egg shaped hole out of the top of the door panel. The tweets sit in and there's a bracket that screws in to keep it in place. From there the wiring drops down to behind the woofer and through the panel to the cross-over.

I think that plan of yours would work well actually. I've seen some tweeters that just mount with small screws when surface mounted. So if you didn't want to go through all the hassel that you just described, you could take a piece of sheet AL, cut it to fit inside that trim piece to give it the support that it needs. Just a thought. Although, I like your idea better. I think it would look much better, much more substantial.

[JustJeff]

Pete

If I were you I'd fab up something out of fiberglass resin. First cut and tape some cardboard in the shape that will work best for you. Then paint the resin on it with some woven fiberglass. Leave the back that will contact the trim open. Once it's hardened you can take a dremel bit and sand out the cardboard. You can cut a hole for your tweeter and lay some vinyl that matches the interior.

Thats how I was considering doing mine. Then I realized the pods face the tweeters perfectly. That's when sinking one screw each through my door panels was alot more convenient than fabbing up a panel.

[Pete_89T2]

Jeff - I thought about fabbing something out of fiberglass resin, but concluded that with zero experience working with the stuff, I concluded that I didn't have the time to invest to get it right. Would be a great first project though, since it could be done without putting my car down for work.

Brian - I like the idea of using sheet metal on the backsides of the stock triangle piece as you suggest. In my case, one of the triangles is cracked in several places, so I figured laminating some plastic to the outside surfaces would kill 2 birds with one stone. The other thing to consider is the inside surface of the plastic triangle isn't flat - it has at least one protruding "pin" that you would have to drill holes for in the metal, and if the metal is too thick, there may be problems getting it to seat properly. There's also that rubber pad on the backside that would need to be removed & reinstalled over the sheet metal. Not sure if that's really necessary, but I would guess it's there for sound insulation.

Pete

[TitaniumTT]

Pete

If I were you I'd fab up something out of fiberglass resin. First cut and tape some cardboard in the shape that will work best for you. Then paint the resin on it with some woven fiberglass. Leave the back that will contact the trim open. Once it's hardened you can take a dremel bit and sand out the cardboard. You can cut a hole for your tweeter and lay some vinyl that matches the interior.

Thats how I was considering doing mine. Then I realized the pods face the tweeters perfectly. That's when sinking one screw each through my door panels was alot more convenient than fabbing up a panel.

Instead of cutting up some cardboard, smear some wax over the stock plastic, then cover it with some wax paper, TIGHTLY. Apply the resin and mat ( I would use mat for the first layer, and woven for subsequent) one time and let it harden. Pop it out and now you have a mold of the original stock piece. From there, the skies the limit with where you can go with it.

[TitaniumTT]

Jeff - I thought about fabbing something out of fiberglass resin, but concluded that with zero experience working with the stuff, I concluded that I didn't have the time to invest to get it right. Would be a great first project though, since it could be done without putting my car down for work.

I've been working with the shit for longer than I can remember and there are guys that do much better work with it than I do. There's really only a few tricks to using it, it's mostly just what works best the way you work. I would definately experiment with it though, it's alot of fun. A few tips though

Always wear gloves and clothes you don't care about

never sand without a respirator (those little surgical masks don't cut it)

when you're done... take a COLD shower, as cold as you can stand and don't scrub... just rinse.

When forming shapes, the first one or two layers, use mat, not woven.

after the shape is there, switch to woven or bi-axial

NEVER let it fully harden if you're laminating.... wait until the epoxy starts to kick... if you can run you're fingers over it and drag it a little, but still leave a fingerprint, that's when you apply the next layer. This gives you a chemical bond, not just a mechanical bond. If you let it harden and then apply the next layer, you're left with a mechanical bond and if it's ever going to delaminate, this is where it will happen.

When you move onto the next layer, wet the first layer by appling a coat of resin. If the pieces are small enough that you can wet them out first, do so, I usually have a scrap piece of wood that I'll roll some resin on, put the PRE-cut pice of mat or woven on, roll that into the epoxy, put it on the piece that's getting laminated, then apply a little more resin making sure all the air bubbles are out.

Don't go with too many layers, flexibility is you're friend.

Brian - I like the idea of using sheet metal on the backsides of the stock triangle piece as you suggest. In my case, one of the triangles is cracked in several places, so I figured laminating some plastic to the outside surfaces would kill 2 birds with one stone. The other thing to consider is the inside surface of the plastic triangle isn't flat - it has at least one protruding "pin" that you would have to drill holes for in the metal, and if the metal is too thick, there may be problems getting it to seat properly. There's also that rubber pad on the backside that would need to be removed & reinstalled over the sheet metal. Not sure if that's really necessary, but I would guess it's there for sound insulation.

Pete

The other thing to consider would be, would the sheet metal bump the trim piece out so much that it no longer seats properly? I think that rubber/foam piece is there to keep a little tension on the piece to attempt to prevent it from squeking, making noise, etc etc.

My thought, probably didn't explain it well enough, was to use the sheet metal as a backing plate and sandwich the plastic piece between the backing plate and the tweeter..... but as you pointed out, that still leaves the crack to be dealt with.

[EJayCe996]

If you look close, you can see where I mounted mine. They are under the plastic mirror trim, on the flat spot on the door panel just behind the vent. They are angles and the sound is pretty damn good. Alpine 6.5" components with some pretty trick mounting.

[img]http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36366&d=1162407820[img]

Your fancy speaker panels are going to wind up missing when you come to Texas :suspect:

[TitaniumTT]

You didn't hear? I'm driving the Jeep :suspect:

[JustJeff]

I considered making my "mold" out of cardboard so I could change the tweeter from firing across the dash. I wanted my tweeters directed at the seats rather than the dash. I liked how the pod accomplished exactly where I wanted the tweeter to be directed.

Pete-

I had zero experience when I started making subwoofer enclosures for underneath my vert rear deck. I got on some audio forums and saw some walkthroughs of how people had used spare tire areas as subwoofer enclosures. I used that as a basis for what I did.

I used the well from the transmission hump as my enclosure. I laid thick trashbags in the well and used tape on the underside of them to get them to fit the contour of the well. I used packing peanuts to measure the inner volume. I can explain how, but this whole sub box thing is already a little off topic. Getting back to the fiberglass.....I laid a couple layers of fiberglass. After a couple layers I then had a wooden rectangular frame for the top of the box to screw down onto. I laid that on the fiberglass covered trashbags with some cardboard to fill in the gaps between the frame and the bag. From there I put a few more coats of fiberglass on with some woven mats cut into strips. Pretty much I did like papermache and encapsulated the wooden frame into enclosure.

Once I had a strong enough "box" I could pull the whole thing out of the car so that I removed any risk of spilling liquid fiberglass and ruining the interior of the car. I sanded off the trash bag cause it was no longer needed. From there I added layers on the inside of the enclosure until it was strong enough. Cut the lid/top sink some screws through it into the wooden frame and waaa laaa a subbox that uses up previously unused space.

Point of all that is that using fiberglass is really pretty simple once you get started doing it. Like TTT explained about being safe with it and you're good to go. One thing I don't remember seeing in TTT post..which it very well might be there. Use a filter when you're using the resin. My family does alot of construction so I had access to double filter breathers for painting.

One thing I like about my idea of building a cardboard mold is that it's risk free. You're not running the risk of accidentally getting fiberglass on interior parts. If you fuck up the work all your out is a cardboard box you made. Once the enclosure is made you can cut and sand it down to create a flush mount up against the triangle mold as well as the door panel.

[EJayCe996]

You didn't hear? I'm driving the Jeep :suspect:

mebbe I have connects on that side of the world who will do me favors :suspect:

[TitaniumTT]

mebbe I have connects on that side of the world who will do me favors :suspect:

mebbe I have two animals that weigh a combined 160lbs and have lots of teeth :suspect:

Pete-

I had zero experience when I started making subwoofer enclosures for underneath my vert rear deck. I got on some audio forums and saw some walkthroughs of how people had used spare tire areas as subwoofer enclosures. I used that as a basis for what I did.

I used the well from the transmission hump as my enclosure. I laid thick trashbags in the well and used tape on the underside of them to get them to fit the contour of the well. I used packing peanuts to measure the inner volume. I can explain how, but this whole sub box thing is already a little off topic. Getting back to the fiberglass.....I laid a couple layers of fiberglass. After a couple layers I then had a wooden rectangular frame for the top of the box to screw down onto. I laid that on the fiberglass covered trashbags with some cardboard to fill in the gaps between the frame and the bag. From there I put a few more coats of fiberglass on with some woven mats cut into strips. Pretty much I did like papermache and encapsulated the wooden frame into enclosure.

Once I had a strong enough "box" I could pull the whole thing out of the car so that I removed any risk of spilling liquid fiberglass and ruining the interior of the car. I sanded off the trash bag cause it was no longer needed. From there I added layers on the inside of the enclosure until it was strong enough. Cut the lid/top sink some screws through it into the wooden frame and waaa laaa a subbox that uses up previously unused space.

Point of all that is that using fiberglass is really pretty simple once you get started doing it. Like TTT explained about being safe with it and you're good to go. One thing I don't remember seeing in TTT post..which it very well might be there. Use a filter when you're using the resin. My family does alot of construction so I had access to double filter breathers for painting.

One thing I like about my idea of building a cardboard mold is that it's risk free. You're not running the risk of accidentally getting fiberglass on interior parts. If you fuck up the work all your out is a cardboard box you made. Once the enclosure is made you can cut and sand it down to create a flush mount up against the triangle mold as well as the door panel.

When you put that box on the fiberglass, was it a chemical bond as well when you did it? was the box wetted out first? How did the whole thing hold up? Have any pics? Sounds like a great idea for my 'vert build.... thanks for the idea!! ;)

[JustJeff]

When you put that box on the fiberglass, was it a chemical bond as well when you did it? was the box wetted out first? How did the whole thing hold up? Have any pics? Sounds like a great idea for my 'vert build.... thanks for the idea!! ;)

I did most all of the fiberglass work in a few days. It's been a few years since I did it so my recall isn't perfect. The fiberglass was still wet when I put the wooden frame on the top. I painted it just thick enough so it was hard enough to remove without altering the mold. I didn't bother sanding the plastic bag off till it was just about done. Most all of the layering was done when it was still tacky and semi wet. I was doing it in the summer so I'd do a few layers and set it in the sun to bake a little. Then come back and do more.

The biggest problem was getting an even coat all around it. Once I got the bag off the bottom I found weak points that I needed to build up. So in the end some of it was done semi-wet and the touching up was done once it was hardened. The areas I paid the most attention to was at the top where the frame met the contoured fiberglass. I really built up fiberglass up and over wooden frame from the inside and up over the rectangular frame. Then I sanded it down so that the top could make a good fit with the frame. I used a disturbing amount of caulk/sealant between the rectangular frame and the top to make sure there weren't any air leaks. I also cut an area of the fiberglass for a speaker terminal.

It turned out ugly but very very functional. I never had looks in mind when I was making it. It was all going to be hidden under the rear deck anyway so appearance wasn't even a factor for me. I never covered the top in vinyl, carpet or fabric.

One thing to keep in mind though. This is my second box I've made for that same location. I originally made a box for a JL 10" sub and it was a poor choice. JL subs..um..W3 and up are great subs but that was a poor location for them. You are limited with how much airspace you can give them. Also the pressure from the speaker was rattling all that flimsy molding where the top folds down.

Later I scored a Boston Pro 8"...after much looking. I specifically was looking for that one for it's reputation. I've always loved Boston Pro speakers and the 8" is well known for needing minimal volume for great sound. IIRC it only needs .5 cubic feet of volume in a sealed box. The tighter sound of an 8" sub works much better under the rear deck. That's all IMHO. I personally hate subs that rattle the car. I'd much rather hear a tight, accurate bass than try to peal the pavement with SPL and shitty unbalanced music that is so bass heavy the other sounds from the music are muted in comparison.

Getting back to the box. I've had zero issues with it since it was completed. I'll post up some pics of it tomorrow or over the weekend.

[JustJeff]

When you put that box on the fiberglass, was it a chemical bond as well when you did it? was the box wetted out first? ;)

Just reread your post. It wasn't so much a box I molded the fiberglass around as literally a frame for a picture. I think I used something like 2x2 wood cut the length of the transmission well. I used only as thick of wood as I'd need to sink the screws from the top into.

It's been so long since I did it that I'm having trouble remembering the details. I'll get it out of the car over the weekend and I"m sure it will all come back to me.

[TitaniumTT]

Really? Do you remember what brand you were using? Most of the poly resin that I use, even the West System stuff will kick off in about an hour.

[QUOTE=JustJeff;131578]The biggest problem was getting an even coat all around it. Once I got the bag off the bottom I found weak points that I needed to build up. So in the end some of it was done semi-wet and the touching up was done once it was hardened. The areas I paid the most attention to was at the top where the frame met the contoured fiberglass.

yeah, that would be the biggest concern for me too.

One thing to keep in mind though. This is my second box I've made for that same location. I originally made a box for a JL 10" sub and it was a poor choice. JL subs..um..W3 and up are great subs but that was a poor location for them. You are limited with how much airspace you can give them. Also the pressure from the speaker was rattling all that flimsy molding where the top folds down.

Later I scored a Boston Pro 8"...after much looking. I specifically was looking for that one for it's reputation. I've always loved Boston Pro speakers and the 8" is well known for needing minimal volume for great sound. IIRC it only needs .5 cubic feet of volume in a sealed box. The tighter sound of an 8" sub works much better under the rear deck. That's all IMHO. I personally hate subs that rattle the car. I'd much rather hear a tight, accurate bass than try to peal the pavement with SPL and shitty unbalanced music that is so bass heavy the other sounds from the music are muted in comparison.

Getting back to the box. I've had zero issues with it since it was completed. I'll post up some pics of it tomorrow or over the weekend.

I love me some Boston Pro's, I've been thinking about swapping out my 10" shallow mount Alpine for a Boston.....


Just reread your post. It wasn't so much a box I molded the fiberglass around as literally a frame for a picture. I think I used something like 2x2 wood cut the length of the transmission well. I used only as thick of wood as I'd need to sink the screws from the top into.

It's been so long since I did it that I'm having trouble remembering the details. I'll get it out of the car over the weekend and I"m sure it will all come back to me.

No need to take anything apart, although I do appreciate it, a few pics of the finished product will do just fine. Thanks again, I appreciate it.

[JustJeff]

Here's the pics I took while I was making it. As I remember it I built up the enclosure almost entirely from the inside. I didn't add much material to the outside of it. Too much material outside would have ruined the contour and fit. I only added outside what was needed to build up suspect areas. Also most of the building up between the frame and fiberglass was done underneath the frame.

One thing to note if you're going to do this is to use light coats. Gravity will have the liquid resin pooling at the bottom. That's the reason I laid it out in the sun between coats. I'm not sure if sunlight and heat sped up the curing process or not...in my mind it did anyway.

When I was making the dimension of the box match the volume of packing peanuts I had the long frame posts cut the length of the well and marked where to put the non-fixed end. Once it was in place I used the contoured cardboard for a temporary end. I taped that in place. Once I was able to pull the whole box out of the well I used a dremel to cut and sand the cardboard away as it was no longer needed.

Here's the pics of semi-finished box
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1909/35/85/1063965498/n1063965498_30258729_4167.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1909/35/85/1063965498/n1063965498_30258725_3246.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1909/35/85/1063965498/n1063965498_30258726_3471.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1909/35/85/1063965498/n1063965498_30258731_4636.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1909/35/85/1063965498/n1063965498_30258734_5355.jpg

If a mod feels the need to move the sub enclosure stuff to a new thread that would be understandable.

[JustJeff]

Really? Do you remember what brand you were using? Most of the poly resin that I use, even the West System stuff will kick off in about an hour.



yeah, that would be the biggest concern for me too.



I love me some Boston Pro's, I've been thinking about swapping out my 10" shallow mount Alpine for a Boston.....




No need to take anything apart, although I do appreciate it, a few pics of the finished product will do just fine. Thanks again, I appreciate it.

I've still got most of the resin I bought in storage. I'll be there tomorrow or sunday to do some engine rebuild stuff. I'll write down the brand and get back to you on that. It does start to setup quickly. IIRC between coats I was setting the enclosore in the sun no more than half hour or so at at time, then adding more.

The Boston Pro subs were/are amazing. Boston Acoustics has since changed the product line around. They are no longer making the Pro's..or at the least not putting the "Pro" label on them. Now they have a few product lines from entry level clear up to competition class rebuildable subs. I'm not sure where the "Pro" would fall in their new product line. I kinda got my system to where I wanted and stopped learning what was what.

The 8 is simply amazing. No one believes it an 8 till I show them. It hits like a 10 or 12. It doesn't get the low SPL levels of a 12, but it's much more clear and accurate. There is no muddy bass with it. If you can find one jump on it cause they are no longer made and have to be at least 4-5 years out of production.

And no worries, I didn't need to take anything apart..I found pics saved on my hard drive. But this thread is a great reminder. The sub has been sitting in my car which hasn't been driven in over a year. I need to get it out anyway and simply make sure it's still in good shape. My vert has the typical water leaks so I maintain where that water pools.

[JustJeff]

Brand of resin I used is United Chemicals & Plastics

[JustJeff]

Here's the tweeter pods I have in the car...I think they fit right in with the rest of the interior

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs581.ash2/150335_1584939657765_1063965498_31517758_6466832_n .jpg

[magus2222]

i have seen people use wood dowels (the really small kind) and all kinds of other things to get the tweeter where they want. once they have it where they want, reinforce the area so you can stretch fabric over the top. apply resin and a few layers of fiberglass. sand, mud, sand, paint, or flock if you wanna match the interior
but, i am by far NO expert, such repeating what i have seen over the years. i think the tweeter put on the triangle like you have it would look and sound good. maybe a bit bulky?
http://www.river-oaks-car-stereo.com/pics/tweeter1s.jpg
im used to this kind of stuff
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b6d803b3127ccece39635c314000000010O08AcsXDls3ctw e3nwc/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ where you would make it sit how you want. then wrap the entire a pillar, and do w/e you want to match the interior (i usually would use flocking)
again, no expert. not by a long shot, and i havent done anything like that in such a long time
Lloyd

[LunchboxCritter]

Do you mean like this?

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2449.jpg

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2462.jpg

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2457.jpg

I'm still working on them. You can find the writeup I've been doing here.

http://www.fiberglassforums.com/automotive-interior/13137-my-first-attempt-glassing-bondo-feedback-appreciated.html

[TitaniumTT]

Damn, nice job on those mounts! Would be pretty bitchin' for a gauge mount too.

Shit like that makes my pants tight. If done properly its totally functional and looks pretty damn near stock too.

[TitaniumTT]

Damn, nice job on those mounts! Would be pretty bitchin' for a gauge mount too.

Shit like that makes my pants tight. If done properly its totally functional and looks pretty damn near stock too.

[LunchboxCritter]

I primered them and test fit them, again. Figured I would take a few shots to give a better idea of what they will look like when finished. :)

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2722.jpg

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2730.jpg

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2726.jpg

more sanding yet to come. :)

[TitaniumTT]

Nice job man!

[LunchboxCritter]

thanks, sorry for the thread jacking. :)

[chibikougan]

Huh that is kickass. Very nice. Although I never did get a stereo installed in my FC. :rofl:

[Pete_89T2]

Very nice!

[knonfs]

I primered them and test fit them, again. Figured I would take a few shots to give a better idea of what they will look like when finished. :)

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2722.jpg

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2730.jpg

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll384/LunchboxCritter/Rx7%20tweeter%20pods/100_2726.jpg

more sanding yet to come. :)


Good job, however (and I am not trying to be an asshole), because highs are directional sounds, and they are so close to one of your ears, your staging will suffer BIG time.

[TitaniumTT]

I've got mounted in basically the same location. Then again I have an Alpine head unit that allows you to adjust for differences in distance of speakers etc etc etc. Sadly I just lost all that info when I pulled the head unit out a few days ago.... :banghead:

[knonfs]

I've got mounted in basically the same location. Then again I have an Alpine head unit that allows you to adjust for differences in distance of speakers etc etc etc. Sadly I just lost all that info when I pulled the head unit out a few days ago.... :banghead:

OUCH!

Are they on axis or off axis. Speaker height plays a small role when it comes to mids and highs, however the highs arent forgiving, the sound will be very accute in the direction that you point them, specially when they are so close to one of your ears.

[LunchboxCritter]

No biggie, it's just 2 more speakers to add to the 6 others in my car that are not properly staged.

Man, looking at those pictures makes me think that my car needs detailing something awful, or at least a good dusting. :)