FC Lower arm bar

[TitaniumTT]

Inspired by this thread and the evidence in hand in that thread I decided to build a lower arm bar. Dr. Overkill performed the procedure

Started out with two hiem joints, 8" of opposite threaded tube, two spare brackets, 3"x12" 1/8" steel, and some very hard to find 1x2 anodized aluminum tubing.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39581&stc=1&d=1198818097

First I layed the brakets flat against some cardboard. I find beer boxes to be fantstic. Tracing the curve of the bracket down to the bottom. Cut that curve out and tape it to the bracket itself. Now, with the bracket level, place a level ontop of the bracket and trace a line against the cardboard. Put the hiem joint ontop of the carboard and make a judgement call as to where it should be. Don't forget about the 14 mm bolthead underneath. Transfer that cut out to steel and cut it out. I would repeat that process or at the very least, test it on ALL the brackets. Next clean everything up.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39582&stc=1&d=1198818097

With the bracket bolted to your workbench bust out the magnetic level and stick the new pieces on the bottom of the level and line them up with the bracket. It's important to always have a true and level workbench. It makes things SOOOOO much easier. Put a few tacks on but only a few, we need to make sure its properly aligned.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39583&stc=1&d=1198818456

After you are certain that it is true, a few tacks on the back and run a bead.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39584&stc=1&d=1198818456

Becuase I thought it would be good on the back as well. Not really needed but I did it anyway. Cleaned up the beads on the front as well. Don't know why, they were purty.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39585&stc=1&d=1198818456

[TitaniumTT]

Drill a 3/4" hole and viola. What I generally do when I need to get throught two pieces of metal like that is drill a pilot hole, 1/8" or so through both and check for square and true, then go for the big 3/4" hole. Easy to adjust an 1/8", difficult to adjust a 3/4"

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39586&stc=1&d=1198818456

Starting with the 1x2x1/8" 6061 tubing and the opposite thread section of pipe. In reality all I really needed to do was order a length of threaded pipe the correct length (about 21") and been done with it. But then it wouldn't be original. Plus I'm building a front & rear strut bar out of the same material so now it all matches

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39587&stc=1&d=1198818790

A few measurements later and out came the jig saw. You'll see why in a minute.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39588&stc=1&d=1198818790

I spent ALOT of time filing down the inside of the tube to more closely match the arc of the threaded tub. Almost 3/16" of an inch gap is just too much so it had to be filed down. Thinking ahead before you cut too is also key. I almost ruined that piece by getting a little excited.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39589&stc=1&d=1198818790

[TitaniumTT]

I spent ALOT of time filing down the inside of the tube to more closely match the arc of the threaded tub. Almost 3/16" of an inch gap is just too much so it had to be filed down. Thinking ahead before you cut too is also key. I almost ruined that piece by getting a little excited.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39589&stc=1&d=1198818790

Everything aligned and clamped down on the bench. Again, sooooo nice to have a good bench. Level, true and you can weld right on it.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39590&stc=1&d=1198819250

One great bead, one shitty bead.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39591&stc=1&d=1198819250

After a lil more welding and some grinding - DONE! Time to instal.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39592&stc=1&d=1198819250

Installed on the car. So nice and easy to get on. Swap the brakets and instal one hiem joint to the bracket snugly. Put the other in the rough spot where it needs to be and rotate the entire brace until it falls into line. Tighten both bolts down and give the bar a turn or too more to load it up and jam down the lock nuts. Pre-load is a good thing sometimes.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39593&stc=1&d=1198819463

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39594&stc=1&d=1198819463

[RotorDad]

Another nice piece.

[Garfinkles Motor Works]

Another nice piece to say the least. What is next I will tune in soon . I need to learn how to put pictures on here because I have made a few parts as well . Keep it comming this is better than peanut butter .

[vex]

Wouldn't you get more rigidity out of a strictly welded bar... though if you're using aluminum it will deform.

Good how-to.

[vex]

Brian! Fix your pics!!

[TheAbsence]

^ Bump for rehosting the pictures somewhere

[TitaniumTT]

Pics were originally on TeamFC3S.org and I don't have them on this machine.... I might be able to dig them up on the onld archiac Dell I have in the closet...

[aaronoverholser]

Where can I view pics of the piece you built?

[TitaniumTT]

TeamFC3S.org which appears to be down. If I ever get the chance I'll dig the old comp up and pilfer the pictures from it and rehost them here. Can't make any promises on when it'll be though.

[Thumper]

TT is there any way you can fix the pics on this thread and the thread on your strut brace.

[ModDimension]

TT is there any way you can fix the pics on this thread and the thread on your strut brace.

+1 I wanna see pics please :)

[TitaniumTT]

Id have to bust out the old OLD computer and see if they're still there. Kinda not had the time with 10+ hr days 6-7 days a week. I'll get there eventually..... or just get intouch with tony farkas and tell him to get teamfc3s back online

[Sharingan 19]

My money is on you getting to that dusty crap box....

[Turbo II Rotor]

Wouldn't you get more rigidity out of a strictly welded bar... though if you're using aluminum it will deform.

Good how-to.

That's how I made mine. Copied Brians design for the weld on tabs for the control arm mounts and welded a bar straight between them.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-09-27_14-47-22_112.jpg

[Raksj04]

That's how I made mine. Copied Brians design for the weld on tabs for the control arm mounts and welded a bar straight between them.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-09-27_14-47-22_112.jpg

Could you post more pics?

[TitaniumTT]

Specifically of the engine bay :suspect:

[Turbo II Rotor]

Could you post more pics?

Sure thing Rich. I still need to pull it back off and paint it, bare metal rusts with the quickness here in the north east. I made it with the cross tube short enough to fit a socket up on the inside bolt. I used 3/16 plate and traced out the control arm bucket over top, cut it out and welded it to the inside. I then bolted the mounts to the car, measured and cut my 1 1/2" square tube to 24 1/4", hammered it in and welded it in place. I also drilled and tapped the buckets for a zerk fitting so I can grease my delrin bushings on the car.

Flux core FTL. I need to set up an argon tank for my welder.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-10-08_17-13-38_753.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-10-08_17-14-20_861.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-10-08_17-14-45_621.jpg

Specifically of the engine bay :suspect:

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-09-24_14-34-32_756.jpg

[Raksj04]

are those the stock Control arm buckets? also would it be worth while to turn this design into a K style support bar?

[Turbo II Rotor]

Yes, stock buckets. What do you plan on triangulating the bar to? Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ULTRA-RACING-4-PT-FRONT-LOWER-ARM-BAR-SUSPENSION-BRACE-FOR-86-91-RX-7-FC-FC3S-/190585540421?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true#ht_4259wt_1017

I don't see much of a point if you have a strut tower bar as that will box the top of the suspension. I have the Mazdatrix one (seems like they don't make it anymore) which triangulates into the firewall and is very rigid. I haven't driven the car with the lower arm bar yet but I notice a difference when jacking the car up.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-10-08_19-10-10_148.jpg

[TitaniumTT]

I also drilled and tapped the buckets for a zerk fitting so I can grease my delrin bushings on the car.

That's a cool idea right there

Flux core FTL. I need to set up an argon tank for my welder.

Yes... most definately...

is the car driveable? Planning on bringing it up to that auto-x deal if you attend? If you don't I could meet you that night in SW CT

[2gslse]

Please tell me that you have jack stands under the car also not just the cinderblock shown in the picture. That is one of the worst things you could use and its in the weakest position also it doesn't take much to collapse a block that direction. The brace looks good I just want you to stick around long enough to use it.

[Turbo II Rotor]

Yeah they aren't the only thing keeping the car from crashing down.

Took some pics when I removed it from the car for paint.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-10-18_15-38-10_357.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/2012-10-18_15-38-41_749.jpg