GTUs Turbo -HISGTUS-

[Phoenix7]

I finally get to go through the entire build. I'll do it in stages (1 post about the BEFORE, one about the after and so forth)


Backstory: I've owned an S4 GXL, S5 GTU and an S5TII up to this point in the story.

I hate street drifters/racers because I lost my TII avoiding one of them on the local backroads.:cuss: Asshole didn't even stop. So I had a dead car and no shell.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/The%20Beauty/DCP_1305.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/The%20Beauty/myengine.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/The%20Beauty/Picture019.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/The%20Accident/crash24.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/The%20Accident/crash2.jpg


My friend had a shell with a dead motor. I had just spent $4600 for a turn-key Mazda reman (another regret, it's one of those "if I knew then what I know now" type of deals) since the jerk sold it to me with blown seals. This is why I tell everyone buying a car to WALK AWAY IF THEY ARRIVE At A TEST DRIVE AND THE CAR IS WARMED UP. Ask for the car to be cold (at least 3 or 4 hours). I'm partially to blame for not knowing a damn thing, ignorance isn't bliss and you shouldn't trust anyone.

So, on with the build:

I bought it in 2003 and I'm still working on it.


I wouldn't tell anyone I got a great deal but it was the best I could do at the time. I owed him 300 bux and he asked for 700 more for the car. I needed it so I bought it. It had potential in my eyes. Lightest model, turbo motor.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Being%20Reborn/Before%20she%20was%20mine/100_4466.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Being%20Reborn/Before%20she%20was%20mine/100_4462.jpg





TO BE CONTINUED...
GTUs (http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=1356)~GTUsT (http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showpost.php?p=45835&postcount=63)~TOYS (http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?p=21704#post21704)~FG DASH (http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=2379)~RX7CLUB Info (http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showpost.php?p=48828&postcount=48)~WTB/FS (http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showpost.php?p=10553&postcount=1)







We removed the motor at his house but I wish I had kept the motor to practice on, or to have as a drop-in replacement (200K miles is quite a lot of miels). I just had no room at the time.:o10:

We had some garage problems (a long story) and rushed it. Finished the thing in one week, which isn't bad for my first ever real work on a car.

I liked the FSM and how simple it was to do the work. I have a lot of regrets but circumstances just weren't favorable. I have very little pics of this (another regret of mine) but here is the best I can do:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Being%20Reborn/IMG0177.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Being%20Reborn/100_4489.jpg



I installed EVERYTHING from the TII over to the GTUs. Sold the GTUs rear end, bought tools, read the FSM MANY TIMES and it still wouldn't turn over. The garage issue I mentioned earlier finally blew up and I towed the car to my parent's house. I went over the FSM for another week trying to figure out why the car won't turn on. My dad walked out and walked over to the car and asked: "what plugs in there?" and points at a harness with nothing attached to it. I look through the FSM and say: "Main relay.":blush5:
I missed the main relay. I run to my friend's house and rummage through his parts and find a main relay and it turned on.
:party:



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Being%20Reborn/After%20TII%20Swap/REXbefore1.jpg
I have a video somewhere of it running off the DP. :o16:

So, now I needed a hood. Junpower from the RX7club stepped up and let me BORROW his hood and I rocked it for a good two years. BTW, those of you who recognize the following pics. :seeya: :suspect:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Being%20Reborn/After%20TII%20Swap/daecdef3.jpg

I drove this car for a few years. Stock turbo, 3" exhaust (went through a few), suspension mods, intake, boost controller. The best DD I've ever had! My now wife wanted an FC also and she got her GTUs. That car's thread will come soon.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/60ef3c30.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/rexansrajah.jpg

[Phoenix7]

I eventually had to return the hood and didn't want a TII hood (too many people asking me stupid questions or revving at me everywhere) so I started looking for an NA aluminum hood but that meant I had to go FMIC before going FMIC.

I had a few choices. Spend BANK on a pre-made kit (Greddy), spend 1/2 the bank on another kit (corkspork wouldn't sell the the pipes only!) or make my own for 1/4 of the price. :ack2:

I went the ebay route:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/newFMICsetup2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/newFMICsetup3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/rex7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/IMG_0065.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/IMG_0064.jpg

While this was going on I got a good deal on a Border/corksport front end so I got a different front end (I really can't pass up a good deal!!).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/IMG_0031.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/IMG_0029.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/IMG_0030.jpg

Halfway through the FMIC install my friend's shop got broken into. My car lost the interior, damaged the front end and had to start the FMIC all over. This guy broke into my car, 2 integras, and a Galant VR4. He came back AGAIN but my friend was staking out the place and called the cops. He was caught red handed in an integra!

That was great news! Until the court day came and they only awarded the integra guy money. He wasn't caught in my car so i got screwed.

SO I finally get started the FMIC again (thank God it wasn't a GREDDY!!) and here is the nasty elbow:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/11-1.jpg







Painted the front end (half-assed but as you may already know, I don't care how it looks right now, It just needs to run well first.):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/11-3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/FMIC/11-2.jpg



I painted the FMIC and I was careful to make sure it wasn't clogged but I'm not sure if this led to the ultimate demise of the turbo.

The whole point was to maintain sleeper status and to just fly below the radar. I loved it. It ran great, handled awesome but something was wrong.

[Phoenix7]

The car started to stumble more often. I'd tune, retune and repeat but nothing happened. Nothing I researched solved it. Boost would be laggy and it just wouldn't move. I did a compression test and it yielded 90s. One day I turn it on and immediately begins to act weird.

I know how the car warms up. I built this thing, I literally know what it will do but it didn't do anything that day. It idled much higher, and when it was warm it remained high (2K RPMs). I drove for 5 seconds and my heart sank when the temp gauge started to climb above it's normal point. I stop, get out of the car and popped the hood.:117::117::117:

The turbo was glowing red. I run to the car to turn it off and the temp gauge is past the 1/2 way mark but still n the "safe" territory.
All I could think of was the oil cooking in the turbo and lines. :banghead::banghead:

Did a compression test and it was fine, still 90's. I sent the turbo to get rebuilt. I think it was time anyways. Over 160K miles and most of it at 10 psi. so it was probably old.

Time for a new turbo. About a year ahead of my schedule. I wasn't planning on any extensive mods until 2009! Now I have to get a new turbo. WTF? New turbo means more fuel. MOre fuel means fuel control. Fuel control means wideband. Wideband means guages and datalogging.:banghead:


OY!:o10:

To Be Continued...

[Phoenix7]

Time to remove the turbo:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/DSC00628.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/DSC00640.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/DSC00701.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/DSC00718.jpg



Sent it out to Bryan at BNR, Decided to install the S-AFC From my old TII. I messed it up so I decided not to hook it up. I got a wideband but didn't install it. I got a 255lph fuel pump and 720cc injectors (good for 10 psi on the Stage 2 according to Bryan). I bought a Koyo for better cooling and the yoohoo belt, I had a Fiero fan so I decided to install it too. By this time I had already installed my HIGGI TB elbow.

Finally the turbo arrived, didn't take very long!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/DSC01836.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/DSC01838.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/DSC01839.jpg


I finished the FMIC piping and I installed the turbo, used the gaskets, put it back together and immediately knew something was wrong. I know smoking is normal so I didn't worry TOO much. The squealing got to me. It woouldn't stop. At first I thought it was the yoohoo belt (it's pretty tight:117:) but we took a stethoscope and pinpointed it on the middle, right between the cold side and the hotside. :wallbash: The smoke never stopped.

Damnit, what now?? She purred for a total of 45 seconds. Started briefly 3 times. she was still broken.:001_07:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/DSC02698.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/DSC02701.jpg

I call Bryan and he told me to send it back. Removed it that day and shipped it back. Apparently I had the wrong gaskets for the oil lines (great news to me) so it caused the smoking. The squealing was a dimple somewhere creating friction. :dunno: maybe he can chime in and explain in detail.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/DSC02710.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/DSC02711.jpg








So, the turbo came back and I haven't installed it. Between the rain and previous engagements I've postponed the install for a couple of months.

I found a Haltech E6X at a good deal and I now have to rewire the whole car. I'm stuck. I want to do it, I have everything I need, I'm just anxious and making excuses for not working on it.:willy_nilly:

This is where I am at today.

I need to finish my car so I can finally drive it:

BNR Stage 2 Turbo
Haltech E6X
wideband
720cc secondaries
550cc primaries
FMIC (might wanna get a larger core, :dunno: )
competition motor and diff mounts
RB sways and endlinks
KYB AGXs all around
Eibach Pro Springs
225's for rubber
weight reduction
3" RB turbo-back
Koyo radiator
Fiero E-fan
FD Torsen LSD


I wanna buy some monitoring equipment (EGTs, AITs, oil temp and pressure, water temp , etc., etc.) but this is where my build is currently. Soon I'll have to post pics and start my install and tuning. Stay tuned.

[Phoenix7]

Once I finish the car (performance-wise) I'll focus on the exterior and interior. I'm not really the show-off type so I don't mind right now.

My goal? SleeK FC that is a little different than the rest. I'm tired of seeing the GP Sports kits. It looks nice but everyone and their mother has it on thier car. I have a project going that will ENSURE that it's not like any other FC I've seen.

Here are pics of the body (needs work) and extras I've picked up along the way. I paid ~$400 for all these things (front, rear, sides and wing). It's going to be repainted in black with red and black interior. The only pieces I'm missing are the RE-A rear difusser and the roof wing but I don't plan on buying until I'm ready for paint (or a great deal comes by).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Exterior%20Ideas/bontarou69img600x4501093875943.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Exterior%20Ideas/amemiyadiffuser.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/11-11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/11-22.jpg


The damage you see here was caused by a car with a HITCH. I went to the car one morning and the front end was damaged. :rant:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/DSC00587.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/DSC00588.jpg


Here are the sides I bought really cheap.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/037.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/036.jpg


Interior will be simple. Black seats, S4 belts, red harneses for the track, maybe a cage (dunno yet), black wheel, black boots with red stitching. My interior is all black so that's staying. I'm trying to keep it simple yet functional.

It sucks knowing you can finish it ALL off at once but I know better than to spend that much cash on a hobby. I gotta prioritize and slowly continue the project.

[Phoenix7]

Well, I bolted almost everything down. I need to tighten a few other things and then starting the body work. The tranny is making noises in the NA but at least this thing will be back home for a while. The NA gets priority when it comes to repairs and maintenance.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Headlights/014.jpg

Looks so sad. A little more time and it'll be fine though. Main goal get it to safely move. Take it home, wash it and wait until I can work on it some more.

BTW, Classic Auto did something similar but with two different products. Great minds think alike.

[Phoenix7]

UPDATE: I went to work on the car today and it ran for a little bit.

It smoked a lot but after a few minutes the smoke stopped. WHOOHOO!!!!

It wouldn't hold an Idle (bounced between 2500rpms and 200rpms)

Efan won't turn on (it's an easy fix, i know which wire needs to be soldered)

it made a little odd noise but I can't tell if it's the new filter and TID.

There is no throttle response from the cabin.


I plan on checking the timing, tps, throttle cable, and anything else I can think of over the next two days. I'm looking for a haltech installer so I can dump my car with them to get it done.
ALSO: IF ANYONE HAS ANY TIPS, IDEAS, AND ANY WORDS OF WISDOM ON THE FOLLOWING:

I noticed that the RB sway bar barely touches the Koyo lower radiator pipe. I'm concerned about this since it could potentially damage the radiator.

[Phoenix7]

RX7 Turning ON briefly (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/?action=view&current=rx7001.flv)

The camera died on us but shortly after the car revs up to 5K RPMs and screeches from the turbo.

[Phoenix7]

I've PMed Bryan at BNR to see what he can tell me. Put the Stock turbo on and the noise was still there. I'll be installing the BNR again to make sure it's good. It has normal play and no in-and-out so it's should be fine.

Updates as I make changes.

[Phoenix7]

Well, I had a vacuum leak at the UIM. I figured it out after removing the BNR and replacing it with a stock S5 turbo from Junpower. The loud screeching noise was still going on. I drove home on the stocker (didn't want to reinstall the BNR) and I just parked it. After a few weeks I removed it and now I'm going to clean everything up.

Goal, 7stock.

I don't think it's supposed to look like that.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/110.jpg

messy. Gotta clean the whole engine bay up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/111.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/TurboSwap5.jpg


Here they are side by side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Turbo%20Swap/TurboSwap7.jpg

The one difference I wasn't expecting was the 3" TID opening vs. stock 2.5", other than that it's a direct bolt-on. I made the TID from a Honda Prelude Intake. I didn't plumb in the oil injector lines to the TID yet. Still trying to figure out what to so about the oil system. I'm thinking of removing the oiling system and pre-mixing (going S4 front cover and block off the OMP).

So, I'm going to start with vacuum lines. Oil lines, oil cooler lines, and start cleaning up the wiring for the Efan and see If I can get it running right. I bought a new t-stat, and radiator cap and I'll have to buy some ground wires. Higgi showed me a vendor online that has some really cheap if anyone is interested. I plan on going to work earlier so I can leave earlier and will try to work on it every day.

[SouthSideSlider]

very nice where did you get those headlight buckets? where they cut out a FC2000 kit or can you buy just the buckets.

[Phoenix7]

They're custom molds Higgi made for me last year. He told me he wasn't making any more though, I think he said it was a PITA.

You can buy the FC2K kit and cut out the headlights. Another route would be the CLASSICAUTO approach: He used the CP Racing headlights but they're discontinued.

:dunno:

Stick around though, it should be done soon and I'll update with pics.

[SouthSideSlider]

They're custom molds Higgi made for me last year. He told me he wasn't making any more though, I think he said it was a PITA.

You can buy the FC2K kit and cut out the headlights. Another route would be the CLASSICAUTO approach: He used the CP Racing headlights but they're discontinued.

:dunno:

Stick around though, it should be done soon and I'll update with pics.

cool ohwell i guess i will just design them into my kit. have you ever thought of wireing a set of halo's as drivinglights/turnsignals? cant wait to see it BTW

[Phoenix7]

I see FCs around more now and I tend to see them either in stock form or with the same bodykits. I hate how eventually all the rx7s end up looking the same: GP sports kit, sleepy eyes, and a crazy wing or BONE BONE stock.

I wanted to be completely different while maintaining the original style and body lines. This is my attempt to give my 7 a "face-lift" in a manner that is completely different than what the rest of rx7 owners do. ClassicAuto have the same goal and our results kinda look similar but both cars are completely unique.

cool ohwell i guess i will just design them into my kit. have you ever thought of wireing a set of halo's as drivinglights/turnsignals? cant wait to see it BTWI already have 4" lights and HID conversion. I'm still debating what to use for the turn signals. I asked the body guys to eliminate the stock turn signals.

what kit do you have?

[SouthSideSlider]

I see FCs around more now and I tend to see them either in stock form or with the same bodykits. I hate how eventually all the rx7s end up looking the same: GP sports kit, sleepy eyes, and a crazy wing or BONE BONE stock.

I wanted to be completely different while maintaining the original style and body lines. This is my attempt to give my 7 a "face-lift" in a manner that is completely different than what the rest of rx7 owners do. ClassicAuto have the same goal and our results kinda look similar but both cars are completely unique.

I already have 4" lights and HID conversion. I'm still debating what to use for the turn signals. I asked the body guys to eliminate the stock turn signals.

what kit do you have?

im working on my own kit so it will be realy different. LOL you could get just a halo ring for turn signals.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__2x-Car-100mm-Angel-Eye-Halo-Rings-Kit-Light-Headlight-W_W0QQitemZ200248788541QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20P artsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?h ash=item200248788541&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

[Phoenix7]

well, I'm not digging the halos for turn signals. I was going to use motorcycle turn signals. DOT approved, good spread pattern and bright enough to be see when the headlights are on. I don't think halos would work for turn signals.

[SouthSideSlider]

well, I'm not digging the halos for turn signals. I was going to use motorcycle turn signals. DOT approved, good spread pattern and bright enough to be see when the headlights are on. I don't think halos would work for turn signals.

good point i might just use them as driveing lights then and hide the turns in the lower valance. have you considered molding in a set f 93 spec turns?

[Phoenix7]

naw, too much work to mold those in. The headlight buckets have the hole already.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/RX7s/headlights/P2220002.jpg

The hard part is finding the right motorcycle signal that fits.

[classicauto]

good point i might just use them as driveing lights then and hide the turns in the lower valance. have you considered molding in a set f 93 spec turns?

What Pheonix said.

And to boot, the contour would require adding a bulge to make them sit flush......contour doesn't match up anywhere on the FC cover.

Nice progress Pheonix!

[WE3RX7]

^ PICS! I want to see how the front end turned out.

Good progress thus far...

[Phoenix7]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/908061.jpg
MOMO Tuner (black with red stitching)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/908064.jpg
Overpriced mirrors^^

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/908066.jpg
^^LC1 Wideband

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/908070.jpg
HID's for new headlights.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/908072.jpg
guages. I'm missing the wideband AFR so that's next.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/908073.jpg
E6X I need a 3 bar map sensor


I'm waiting on my carpets, seats and then I get to start putting stuff together.

So far so good.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16238&cat=250&page=1
Gotta get that next.^^

[Phoenix7]

:willy_nilly: my front end Is almost done. I'm uploading pics!




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/Frontendconversion009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/Frontendconversion011.jpg
Sal and Mario Campillo are delivering good freaking work!!!!!

:willy_nilly::willy_nilly::willy_nilly:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/Frontendconversion004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/Frontendconversion002.jpg


Woot woot! One-of-a-kind! Only on RCC!!!

More pics:

Also note, this is mocked on the front end. The gaps you see will be less visible once the front end is mounted completely!!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/Frontendconversion007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/Frontendconversion013.jpg

Doesn't look too different from the side.

[Rotary13B1]

BALLA! Looks great! Keep it coming!

What's the cost on the wideband? I need to do some dash work on my TII Vert as well, I still don't have any guages!

[Phoenix7]

I think I paid $160 from a guy that was parting his car out.

well, slow and steady. Focus on the important things first and then enjoy it. I can't wait.

Now I'm torn. Shade Green or Stock Brilliant Black.

[djmtsu]

I don't thinks its a sleeper anymore with that nose!!

Might want to change the thread title!!!!

[WE3RX7]

^ Agreed - no more sleeper, lol.

You'll be the only one w/ that friend end!

Go shade green, why be original when you've got a front end like that. Besides dark greens with bronze wheels look great...

[stylEmon]

i know the feeling. Mine was all GO for about a year and a half... now it's tamed down a bit. I still have a LONG way to go... finish the fuel system, finish suspension, aero kit, body work, paint...

Hang in there, she's coming around.

That red one looks sWEET

[Phoenix7]

For a 200sx? SE-R means it wasn't the RWD 80s mobile?


Keycompositesgroup FG Hood. I think it's a copy of the FD AD9 hood for the FC. I liked it, and it was cheap.
Hood came in:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/hood003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/hood004.jpg

pics are blurry but you get the idea.

[josh18_2k]

we need fitment pics.
whered you get it?

[WE3RX7]

Where'd you find that hood?? I'm assuming its FG?

I'm leaning on the old school RE vented hood, but its hard to find.

[Phoenix7]

I'll hopefully get fitment pics after next Wednesday. It's all FG WITH a skeleton and stock lactch. The covers are removable via screws.

I got it on Ebay from Keycompositesgroup (http://stores.ebay.com/keycompositesgroup_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amewaxQ3am esstQQtZkm). $199 + $140 Shipping. I like it since not too many people are rocking it (compared to the Dmax-like hoods) and the design is KINDA unique. It's a copy of the FD hood made for an FC.

[Phoenix7]

it's a good deal, IMO. I've seen it on other cars on the net so it's not like I'm being original, I just like how I don't see it around my area.

Miata_mx5 has a link to REAL Dmax hoods for under 600 (another good deal IMO) but I found out about it too late, plus, I think this new hood is an awesome deal.

[SpooledupRacing]

wow, nice build deal, looks like you have put lots of time and money into her..

my .02

I hate the non pop ups
I never liked that hood on FC's

of course doing a build is all about your preference.. and for that sir I commend you and I think your doing a wonderful job.. keep up the good work and keep up with the updates.. THX for sharing

[Phoenix7]

believe it or not, I haven't spent that much to get her here. 1K for the chassis, about 4K in mods and all the TII parts from my old TII. I still think it's coming out cheaper than other's builds.

I'm sure things will need to be replaced (need better IC) and some more body parts but it's been relatively cheap IMO.

I thought about it for a long time. I wanted the Border type 1 bumper (with the camaro-like headlights) but i moved on because they looked like camaros.

I then looked at knightsports headlights or the MIata conversion headlights but again, that didn't appeal to me for long.

I don't know how it came about but Higgi made me these headlight buckets and I figured it was a great time to do something different. I've been working on the headlights for at least a year and a half (from purchase of custom buckets to now).

I like the headlights since they're utterly different tahtn anything available for the FC but I hate how square the bottom part of the FC2K kit is. It's just flat!

I can't wait to get the car back to get her running.

I'm indecisive about the paint tho.

[SpooledupRacing]

paint it something "flashy" lol

[Phoenix7]

that's the thing, I don't want flashy. I know it seems like it because of the front end but I want the car to only look crazy to rotary owners and bland/boring to the general public.

My ideas:
PZ Black (stock S5 color)
Flat black
Shade green

The crazy idea is to go Vinyl!

[SpooledupRacing]

well quitye honestly I was thinking green when I saw your car..

so I would go GREEN

[Phoenix7]

yeah, I just don't wanna cheap out on the paint so I'd rather leave it primered for now. :dunno:

I'm posting these links for my reference BTW:
Next few items I wanna pick up...


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=INN-3794
http://www.theautochannel.com/autoparts/autobodybestmazda/itemn777893.html

[rotorhead87]

I love those innovate products. I'm not using the gauge like you have there in the link, I'm running the big hand-controller. Also your car is coming together really great! Keep it up!

[SpooledupRacing]

I personally DONT like the innovate gauges... not because of how they work, but I am into the flashy stuff and to me they are to boring..

as far as a gauge goes.. they are top notch for SURE!

[Phoenix7]

well, i figured I might as well go with the gauge that comes with the LC-1. The other gauges are all black so this one fit the group best. Thanks guys....I'll be updating soon.

[Phoenix7]

So I traded the blue hood for black rear seats + hardware and I ended up putting the vented hood on the NA for now.

I'll take pics tomorrow morning but I'm somewhat satisfied.

First it was chipped in the driver's side corner but that's not very important to me...lol, :dunno:

Now, the vent covers don't like strut tower bars.....it seemed to touch on the NA's bar. I removed it but the latch is too stiff so it wouldn't latch. I didn't want to slam it too hard (it FG) but I tried a couple of times. The spring is too old and worn and it's all stiff. I'll have to get a new sprint and then lube up the latch and see if it closes a bit better. I understand why they say to use Hood pins... I ended up removing the spring in order for it to latch overnight....It should be simple to open tomorrow.

Fitment:
There is a gap between the fenders and front bumper but I thought it was acceptable/expected considering the price.

I installed it late tonight so I didn't get a chance to take pics and inspect it better so I'll update with pics tomorrow.

Now, I went for a drive afterwards and I left the car on afterwards. Hot air comes out of the second vents (from the front) when the efan comes on. I put the thermometer on the hood closer to the fender and it showed 68* then I put it directly behind the vent (on the FG) and it showed 109*

Mind you that was after driving and the efan had just come on.

Those are the first impressions......I'll update this post with pics and more critiques....

[Phoenix7]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/NewHood.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/NewHood2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/NewHood3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/NewHood4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/NewHood5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/NewHood6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/NewHood7.jpg








So, I'm still having beef with the hood but It should be betther when I put it on my car. I'll modify the spring this weekend and see if it closes better.

I do believe I need hood pins....

I messed with the latch some more earlier.....Closes better now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/hood010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/hood011.jpg

[Phoenix7]

Been running around like crazy trying to take care of some setbacks in the past 2-3 weeks but I'm slowly gathering parts and painting some.

SineAutoProject came through with an INSANE HOOK-UP and I'm very happy.

Here is the roof wing:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/004.jpg

The headlight covers:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/005.jpg

The pedestal and oil cooler lines from Comitatus:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/009.jpg

Here are the mirrors after the fist coat of paint:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/006.jpg

[Phoenix7]

well, the NRS sell for $1100 per rotor (IIRC) while the Iannetti can be had for much less (Mazdacomp says that members cannot divulge prices under threat of blacklisting or something like that).

Ceramics....The wave of the future....

Turn signals came in:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/FrontEndProgress5.jpg

I still love the front end. It looks naked without the stock turn signals...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/FrontEndProgress2.jpg

[warwickben]

looks good i need to see te turn signal in action.

side note you made me want to keep my sa and do a full restore on it . i wount bore you what ive done so far cause your a fc guy. but thanks for pushing me to keep the sa.

[Phoenix7]

Awesome! I love the first gen (honestly, I'll drool over anything rotary!). How far a long are you? Are you still going to try to go with the Racing Beat muffler setup?

I'll have the brackets and wiring done on the light setup in a bit so I'll get some videos posted soon. I ALMOST put the FG hood on the black car yesterday but the wife seems kinda fond of it on her NA.

[warwickben]

ive done re-speed front and rear coil over kit.re-speed front sway bar.new kyb gr2 struts shocks. custom ignition system 3 msd blaster 2 coils and 3 gm ignitors thanks to jeff 20b. all new bushings . new ball joints. racing beat header to muffler setup need to fix one leak in the stock pipe you use on the sa setup. removed gilmer pulley kit killed 2 alts f that shit right.

i need to do some body work drivers 1/4 panel and need to make a air dam since i cant find the parts for a sa. iam thinking of forming some caps for the front fenders and buying a sheet of 1/4 inch carbon fiber and bolting it to the them.ie on the uder side like a air splitter. strip the interior out some what, since iam going to put a street cage in, mainly to feel more safe. then i just need to figure out what iam going to do motor wise. my 12a runs fine when i took it off the road.but i want more power and need to figure out the best bang for the buck. if i can find some one to boost prep a rb holley i want to do that.if i cant find some one to do that ill go cadmen. i wish there was someone near by that could take my 12a apart and tell me if i should keep it or rebuild it if possible.

if i go cadmen i mite try to carb a TII motor with a cadmen to make my life easier. i dont want to have to pay for dyno time ect. since my buddy works with a bunch of carb guys that will help me out for free.
i allso need to clean up the egine bay. iam getting a tig welder soon thank god. so ill probly fix the body this winter and slowly build a motor.

[Phoenix7]

nice, how do solid rear axle 1st gens handle after you modify them like that? I've never driven one.

We both need to do 1/4 panel work....I haven't been able to find a cheap replacement so i'm going to try and fix it...

As far as best bang for the buck? TII swap...200hp stock is fun.

[Phoenix7]

I installed the hood and i"ll be working on it some more tomorrow....:willy_nilly:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/091.jpg

[WE3RX7]

I think this thread should change its title to "GTUs turbo, 400whp sleeper from behind" :)

Look'n good. I'm sure I've asked, but what hood is that again?

[Phoenix7]

LOL, yeah, not so much of a sleeper anymore but I'll settle for 300HP at 10psi and take it from there......It's an AD9 hood replica for teh FC from www.keycompositesgroup.com (http://www.keycompositesgroup.com)

[Phoenix7]

Here is a better pic.....updated March 30th

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4987&stc=1&d=1238797785

BTW, the NEW (aftermarket) interior I bought from Ebay is a perfect fit. I'll be posting about that in a while.

[Phoenix7]

Started to convert the headlights to HIDs....6000K....

It's been cold and rainy so no work on the car so I thought I'd get something else done.

Pics in a sec

HID on the Left
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/006-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/005-1.jpg

[Fidelity101]

Here is a better pic.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/madrx7racer/Our%207s/REX/Upgrades/Under%20Construction/Exterior/Front%20End%20Conversion/002.jpg

BTW, the NEW (aftermarket) interior I bought from Ebay is a perfect fit. I'll be posting about that in a while.

I got that hood, I keep taking the rain guards in and out and the screw holes for them are not holding up, but I prob will just always keep them out when I get it running again.

I wanna see the shots of the interior, I've always been tempted by it.

[Phoenix7]

Yeah, I had to take the covers off since they didn't clear the strut tower bar so I don't know about them not holding up.....I've even driven in the rain without any issues.

As far as the interior, I'm waiting on my seats...as soon as they come in I'll install the new carpets, steering wheel and whatever else I need....

[Hello Roto]

nice build keep the pics coming

[Phoenix7]

slowly chugging along....friend sent me this pic of the car right before the front end swap.

Izzy's cars, Mine and Brooke's....Miss the NA.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/twitpic/photos/large/13961296.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=0ZRYP5X5F6FSMBCCSE82&Expires=1245879872&Signature=dByGzX4O7F5h6VVkbMDhs2XpFqE%3D EDit...don't know why pic won't show up.
http://web1.twitpic.com/img/13961296-ec0e98ba185c8ec7f989558648d60406.4a4294f0-full.jpg

[Max777]

mirrors might be for an AE-86 I know the FC mirrors fit on it... take some pics, maybe you can make them work?

[Flooder]

Pics? I gave up on my car for a while. I'm concentrating on building up my TII instead.

[Phoenix7]

no new pics...nothing interesting happening....new FMIC kit is in, turbo is in, just lagging, trying to get the wife to give up her blown FC so I can rape it for parts for this car....but she can't bring herself to give up her car.

Bought seat rails but they're for 9.5" mounts while my seat is 11.5" and they want 20% restocking fee...dash is out....

slowly progressing...I want it to be primered adn ready to roll for 7stock but :dunno:

[Phoenix7]

I bought some fenders and I spent yesterday and some of the afternoon primering and wetsanding...I have to adjust the FG without breaking it so I can get everything to fit right. Gonna spend all day tomorrow getting the rest of it put together and then the haltech.

Need a few other things but it's all about putting it together now.

Any tips on adjusting the FG? I've already damaged my headlights by being careless. Been busy today.

Here are some pics of it all mocked up:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5876&stc=1&d=1248131063
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5877&stc=1&d=1248131063
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5879&stc=1&d=1248130466

[Phoenix7]

Washing and finishing the front end today. Check out the pics above and let me know what you think.

EDIT: here are some quick pics after the hot shower
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5881&stc=1&d=1248210282
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5882&stc=1&d=1248210282
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5883&stc=1&d=1248210282

[Phoenix7]

sorry about the pic quality....just for my records. BTW, the hood is not shut all the way since the bumper needs to be adjusted a tad more.

I'm desperately working on finishing up the exterior so I can get it to Sears Point Raceway's Exedy booth during Formula Drift (no drifting or racing for me yet...too much work left) but it's gonna be tough even getting the booth!! Competition is an LS7 FD, which I assume is in show-quality-condition.

1. keep messing with the fenders so the front end fits.
2. finish up cleaning up the engine bay and rewire everything.
3. Finish up the interior and install seats.
4. Install Haltech
5. Tune.
6. miscellaneous work like custom throttle cable, smalled brake master cyl., vac lines, boost controller and other electrical work....you know, the little things that make you wanna hurt someone.

[Max777]

what's that wire running across the engine?

[Phoenix7]

I do but not for long...Picked up some aerolatches a while back...as soon as the front end and fenders are lined up to the hood I'll install them. I did the best I could to prep it for the body work.


Took off the TB and UIM again...this time I'm gonna to the TB mod and remove emissions a la RETed's and Rotaryresurrection's sites. THen it's all coming back on for a final job: Haltech.

Edit: had to bathe the bolts in WD40...hope they come out so I can remove the thermowax and continue the mod. wish me luck.

[Phoenix7]

wound up buying a tool so I would stop stripping screws. TB plates have been removed but no porting yet.

Gonna throw it in a parts cleaner along with the UIM tomorrow and then remove the rats nest ala RotaryResurrection (http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_s4_t2_emissions_removal.html).

This is next: THANKS stylEmon
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showpost.php?p=55892&postcount=31

I have everything almost ready for the haltech, just dunno where to start.

New trick:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

[Phoenix7]

I found this in one of my folders about car stuff...I don't remember where I got it from but if you remember then link to give props.

Why rewire the fuel pump?
- Even on a car with a new alternator, new battery, new battery terminals, and
clean electrical connections (mine) I saw as low as 10v to the fuel pump with a
load on the system (lights on, stereo cranked, heater on, etc.)
- The fuel pump should, under boost, be seeing at LEAST 12v. Reduction in
voltage=reduction in fuel flow=bye-bye motor.

Considerations when rewiring the pump...
- First off, it should operate as normal. You turn on the key and go - no extra
switches, etc.
- The fuel pump resistor circuit should continue to work. This drops the fuel
pump voltage to 9v at idle and cruise to improve fuel economy.
- The safety switch in the air flow meter should continue to work. The airflow
meter, when closed, turns off the fuel pump. So, if you roll the car, you won't
be pumping gas out of the car at 30-40psi making a big fireball :).

OK, so how do you do it?

You'll need -
- a 12v automotive relay (Radio Shack)
- about 15 feet of 12 gauge wire
- an inline fuse for the 12 gauge wire
- about 20 feet of speaker wire (you need two wire runs to the back of the car,
and speaker wire has 2 wires)
- various crimp-on connectors (to connect to the relay and positive battery
terminal)
- electrical tape


OK, first off let's run the wire. The speaker wire needs to start at the airbox
location in the engine bay and end by the driver's side rear shock tower. The
12 gauge wire needs to come from the postive battery terminal to the same spot
(don't hook it up yet! :) Hook the inline fuse between the positive terminal
and the 12 gauge wire - you always want the fuse close to the battery. I used a
15 amp fuse, and it seems to be adequate.

Next, it's time to move the resistor and relay. Remove the airbox. There's a
metal bracket that has a relay and a aluminium box that looks like a heat sink.
It connects to the wiring harness with a large round white connector. Inside
the connector should look like so -

__--__
| - - - |
| - - - |
_______

Let's label these wires, as per the shop manual. Diagram below is on the
relay/resistor side:

__--__
|E C A |
|F D B |
_______

OK, cut the connector off the wiring harness. Leave enough slack on both sides
of the cut - we'll be re-splicing the connections in. Connect the speaker wire
to C and D.

So, now you've got your resistor and relay with a cut off connector. Move to
the back of the car. Remove the driver's side rear speaker assembly and the
plastic trim above where the jack goes. Pull the covering on the side of the
hatch area forward. On the side of the shock tower closest to the rear of the
car is a wiring harness with a white connector. This is the connection for the
fuel pump. There's 4 wires there - 2 for power and ground, and 2 for the fuel
level sender. On the fuel pump side of the wiring, the two topmost thicker
wires are power and ground. I believe power had a white stripe and ground is
just black. You might want to test it first and make sure you've got the right
wires. Cut both of them about 6 inches down from the connector - you might need
to cut off some of the covering around the wires. Time to hook up the relay.

Here's what you want to do - use the power lead that normally comes into the
fuel pump and the ground on the car side of the wiring harness to turn the relay
on and off. Run the 12 gauge wire from the battery terminal into the relay.

Time to wire up the resistor relay. Take the wires from terminals A and E and
splice them together. Take the wires from terminals B and F and splice them
together. Attach the speaker wire you ran from the front of the car to
terminals C and D. Run a wire from the relay (the opposite terminal that the 12
gauge wire is on) and attach that to terminals A and E that are spliced
together. Run a wire from the spliced terminals C and D to the fuel pump
positive lead. You can ground the fuel pump separately or just attach it to the
same ground wire it used in the past on the harness.

OK, go back to the front of the car. There should be 4 extra wires where you
cut the resistor relay off. Splice the wires that were on A and B together, and
the wires that were on E and F together. This lets the signal from the main
fuel pump relay travel back to the fuel pump area, and it activates the relay
there to bring the new 12 gauge wire online with the pump.

Time to test it. Get a jumper wire and jumper the fuel pump check connector -
it's a yellow two-prong connector on the passenger's side shock tower in the
engine bay. It might be buried a bit, so keep looking. After jumping the
connector, turn the key to "On" (don't start it) and go back to the hatch. You
should hear the fuel pump running. If not, check your wiring for good
connections.

Yes, this is a VERY complicated procedure, and you have to keep a lot of things
straight. If you have a shop manual, turn to pages 4B-70 and 4B-71 - there's a
really nice diagram of the whole setup there, along with a diagram of the fuel
pump resistor relay. This job took me just a Saturday afternoon. I haven't had
a chance to see what kind of voltage I'm getting yet, but I know it's got to be
better than before :).

The prinicpal of the idea is moving the fuel pump resistor relay near the back
and splicing a relay carrying a REAL voltage into the equation. This method
keeps all the factory safety features (air flow meter cutoff, check connector,
etc.) It also allows the resistor to function properly. When the relay for the
resistor is open, all the current goes through the resistor and is dropped to ~9
volts. When the relay closes, it makes a path with no resistance through that
part of the circuit, and we all know that electricity takes the path of least
resistance.

If any part of this is unclear, please let me know. It's a pretty complicated
procedure with a lot of wire-deciphering, and I think I got the gist of it down.
This procedure is VERY necessary with upgraded fuel pumps and fuel pressure
regulators as Bruce Lewis found out - the stock wiring just can't deliver enough
current. Hopefully this $10-20 mod will help save some modded engines out
there! :)

[Phoenix7]

All that's left is cosmetic.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/picture.php?albumid=20&pictureid=2486

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/picture.php?albumid=20&pictureid=2484

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/picture.php?albumid=20&pictureid=2485

Made 257whp at 10psi...with a boost leak. Next dyno day: 15psi.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjAg9QC_F2A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp-6FLcSxvY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnGHlvU7swQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrIooue7_3o

Steve Kan Dyno-day:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JubrmhIPbQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HZiP1MHt1c

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11473&stc=1&d=1326671302