Good bye wheel hop, Hellooo quick 60's

[sen2two]

This is how you get rid of wheels hop for 6k+ launches!!!

Even the Mazda competition mount sucks. So what i did was take my factory one. Which was broken of course. Sand blast it clean then trim off the front piece. Then weld in thick steel bracing to make i truly stiff and UN-BREAKABLE!!! You don' need a TIG to do this. You can easily MIG it with no problem. I just prefer TIG for everything.


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/bboynero/front%20clip%20RHD/Stockfrontdiffmount.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/bboynero/front%20clip%20RHD/frontdiffmountcutandlasted.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/bboynero/front%20clip%20RHD/frontdiffmountweldedstiff.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/bboynero/front%20clip%20RHD/frontdiffmountweldedstiff2.jpg


I also did this because i swapped out my tired old NA diff for the world famous TII s4 diff. S4 diffs, are the strongest of all Mazda factory rear ends. Then added solid rear diff mounts and a pinion snubber. Good bye wheel hop...


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/bboynero/front%20clip%20RHD/TIIdiff.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/bboynero/front%20clip%20RHD/Tiidiff2.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk253/bboynero/front%20clip%20RHD/pinionsnubber.jpg

[sen2two]

I also added soild tranny and motor mounts. I will be making a brace for the motor to keep it a little stiffer. I want all slack and slop removed from the drivetrain.

I have a small goal of breaking into the 12's with stock motor, turbo, ECU, ect. ect. ect. Getting off the line is key here for me.

[Boosted FC]

Looks really good. Would you be willing to do this for anyone else?

[sen2two]

I could. You can PM me if you are interested...

[TitaniumTT]

I've NEVER had wheel hop issues @ 400whp. I'm also skeptical of a diff mount stopping wheel hop when there's no direct/solid connection between the diff and the wheels.

I think you're feeling the diff smack the undercarriage and confusing it with wheel hop.

[sen2two]

I had video of the wheel hop. No confusion here...

Your a lucky fella then. Just about all of my FC's had wheel hop. Most other owners are plagued with it also. I think the reason you dont have wheel hop is you either have a good suspension set-up, solid mounts already, or just spinning the tires.

Now, not all FC's in the world will get wheel hop. But this is not my first FC. This is also not the first time i have cured wheel hop.

[josh18_2k]

thats gonna break the mounting tabs off the subframe. only a matter of time...
the front diff mount needs some method of damping vibrations, other than metal fatigue

[sen2two]

I am not the first to do this I'm sure...

There are people running 8's and 9's on the factory TII rear. You think they did that with the Mazda mount? No way...

To break the mounting tab off the sub-frame there would have to be slop and movement in the drivetrain. I will have as close to zero slack in the drive train as physically possible with the stock drivetrain. IF the mountuing tab did ever break, which i doubt. I will beef that up also.

[RotorDad]

I have seen a few FC's with some pretty bad wheel hop in the past, how have these worked out for you? On my Spec V, yes it FWD we use solid mount or poly inserts to help aid with wheel hop. Soft mounts no good!

[Nismo]

I am not the first to do this I'm sure...

There are people running 8's and 9's on the factory TII rear. You think they did that with the Mazda mount? No way...

To break the mounting tab off the sub-frame there would have to be slop and movement in the drivetrain. I will have as close to zero slack in the drive train as physically possible with the stock drivetrain. IF the mountuing tab did ever break, which i doubt. I will beef that up also.

I did this years ago, it worked, but like mentioned above I ripped the mounts off the sub-frame, I beefed that up with some angle, been good for 2 years. But with a pinion snubber, you shouldn't have wheel hop... What are your tire pressures, and suspension set up?

[sk8world]

mt et streets = no wheel hop.

[sen2two]

Tire pressure is 30psi on 255/40/17 Falken Azenas with Rays Gram light 57s.

But all this is being done because I will be running the car on a set of 15x8 Weld pro stars with 26" tall slicks, with skinnies up front. Starting at 15psi rear wheel tire pressure, and adjusting from there.

[antman0408]

I've always had wheel hop in my car, and its the worst when I'm launching at the track. I even put in a pinion snubber and still get it. It reduced hop some but not all.
Good luck to you on hitting 12s. I'm kinda have the same goal, 12s with the stock turbo. With a good launch, I think I'll get it.

[RETed]

thats gonna break the mounting tabs off the subframe. only a matter of time...
the front diff mount needs some method of damping vibrations, other than metal fatigue

+1

To the OP: you're giving yourself too much credit

This is not about slop.
It's about torque transfer.
Regardless of slop, that kinda torque transfer is going to...torque...something.
You just moved the weakest link from the front diff mount to the sub frame.

Have fun fixing that when it breaks...


-Ted

[RotorDad]

Wheel hop is not good for drivetrain parts so getting rid of it is a plus. Running a slick doesn't always solve the problem, I'm sure that most of us have seen cars running slicks have terrible tire shake. BTW running a slick & dead hooking will induce more stress on drivetrain parts. A progressive spin will cause slower times, but will be easier on parts. Sometimes while fixing one problem we just move the problem somewhere else, so making a decision pros over cons comes to play. The more power achieved may reintroduce wheel hop once mods have been done to correct the previous problem. If everyone is worried about braking stuff I suggest that you don't race your car. Shit happens from the weekend racer to the pro level teams.

[josh18_2k]

all im really saying is youre gonna want to reinforce the subframe while its out of the car, since its such a pita to remove.

[infernosg]

I thought you should always have at least one point in your drivetrain where some movement/damping is allowed. Otherwise, if something is out of balance or you're outputting a large amount of torque you will be slowly fatiguing the weakest structural point as others have mentioned.

[classicauto]

Neat idea for reinforcement. I'm guessing this is a track only car? If not, you'll hate those solid tranny mounts.

12's are doable with stock turbo. I was close but never got there before I started big mods. Trapping close to 100mph in the low 13's. I never had hop issues in that car though. In my experience the biggest culprit for wheel hop on the FC is the front trailing arm bushings and shitty old shocks + one case involving the main diff mounts.

I would also bear in mind that with the pinion snubber, on a hard launch the front diff mount won't really be doing much. The main idea of the snubber is to provide support for that mount without having to run comp mount or solidfy the stock one. The mount nees to be there during regular driving to keep the diff pointed the right way though.

It should be bomb proof. Now prepare to break all the things that were bomb proof before! :lol:

[sen2two]

It's actually my daily...lol, But i am usually on the bike. Florida weather allows that luckily enough.

What kind of power where you making when running those low 13's? Weight, tires?

To infernosg, when running slicks, stiff suspension is perfectly fine. I am running Cusco coilovers. Which are far from a drag type suspension. But slicks will act as the suspension when they wrinkle and give off the line.

[classicauto]

No idea on what I had at the wheels, never measured. I was running stock turbo with custom TID, 13psi, 3" exhaust...I would guess 230-240whp. Tires were shitty old kumho's on stock rear wheels.

I had the launches pretty down with slipping the clutch around 4500-5000rpm. I honestly don't remember my best 60', I never got slips back then, didn't care :lol: I just watched my et and MPH.

If you're serious about draggin though I would absolutely ditch the coil overs, they're not helping anything in a straight line.

[sen2two]

It's not a dedicated drag car or i would ditch the coilovers. I have a set of Tien springs with KYB shocks that actually work great for drag. I thought about switching to them, but when running slicks, the coilovers shouldnt hurt anything. key word being shouldnt...

If i dont hit my goal of 12.999 or better, I will switch to the other suspension and go from there.

[antman0408]

My best run was 13.3 at 108mph with a crappy 2.2 60'. This is full weight and on bridgestone re01r. With slicks, you should get into the 12s.
I've been looking for time slips of someone running 12s with the stock turbo, but haven't found actually proof of it. I'll be looking for your times, hope you get it.

[Nismo]

I've seen a RHD FC here run a 12.92 on RA1's it was pretty well stock other than, an exhaust, intake, and I think no WG line

[classicauto]

no wastegate line? I know who was driving! :LOL:

[Nismo]

no wastegate line? I know who was driving! :LOL:

Yeah I figured you'd guess that Joe, might have been some instructions in the oil pan too, not sure!