2 questions, clutch bleeding

[a7xh7]

1. what is the endpoint of clutch bleeding? seems like ive tried FOREVER to bleed my system. not sure when its done? its bled to the point where i am no longer seeing any more changes in the pedal.. but has about 3 inches of "slop" where it does nothing. push it further then it will start to disengage the plate. im i done with bleeding and just need to adjust the pedal?

2. is sealant used for piping leading into the clutch slave? im not sure if it has a tiny leak there, what can be done if it is leaking at this junction? its properly torqued and the threads are lined up correctly..

[FreeLance]

Are you sure you're bleeding it right? You need to have the bleeder in the closed position, push down the pedal and hold. Then open the bleeder for a second (keep foot pressure), close the bleeder, and then pull up the clutch lever. REPEAT.

There should not be any sealant on the clutch line threads that go into the slave cylinder. If you're concerned about a leak spray the slave cylinder down with break parts cleaner and allow it to dry,then pump the pedal for a minute or so. If there's a leak you'll see that area wet with fluid.

[a7xh7]

yeah im using the method to bleed. im thinking of getting either a vacuum bleed system or a speed bleed valve though since it seems like it might just need a lot more bleeding time. i'll check for the leak again..

[proz07]

another good way to bleed if your doing it by yourself and dont want to spend the money on expensive auto bleeders is as follows. just get some vacume line/hose that fits on the bleeder nipple tightly. and connect it to the nipple loosen it then put the other end in a container of some sort to catch the fluid. usually works best if you start with a little fluid in the container, and make sure the hose is submersed in it. then pump away on the pedal till you believe you have flushed/bleed the system. retighten the nipple and check pedal feel. it works pretty good if you dont have someone to help you.
z

[a7xh7]

i ended up getting a motive pressurized bleeder(45mm / euro adapter fits perfect, get the billet cap its worth it :) ). works good the cap is a bit tricky to get sealed, it needs to twist around a lot more times than u would think. also the hose connector to the cap wasn't tightened properly so it was leaking a but there, so check that if anyone gets one..

so after going through the process.. my clutch still has the play AND is super stiff. not sure what went wrong of if my slave went out during the process. i only applied 12psi to the system. not sure what to do next.. trying to see what may have happened..

[Phoenix7]

well if you got rid of all the air in the system and it still has too much play you can adjust the clutch pedal. I tend to like that extra slack so I can rest my foot on the clutch without it engaging.

You need somone to help you. THe self-bleeding kits are good but not good enough for me. The freelance method is how I bleed my clutch.

[dudemaaan]

did you bleed the clutch because you put a new one in? If so it probably needs the pedal readjusted. mine was way off after putting new clutch and resurfaced flywheel back in.

[a7xh7]

im doing the bleed because i disconnected the slave during engine and tranny pull and it was time to get new fluid in the system anyway :)

same clutch flywheel and disc components were reinstalled. i'll try to adjust the pedal now, maybe i forgot how stiff the act pressure plate can be. i haven't driven the car in over a year lol

[a7xh7]

well the stiffness feels normal to me now. only issue is seems like the plate isn't disconnecting all the way when i push the clutch pedal. kinda hard to get in gear. grr. it actually feels like it disengages completely if i don't push the pedal all the way down to the carpet, once i pass a certain point it re-engages slightly. hope its just a pedal adjustment issue.. something for manana :)

[Phoenix7]

the slave is toast? Have you ever replaced that?

[a7xh7]

think its a synchro problem, rather than a slave issue. shifting to N then into 2nd helps a lot. checked the tranny fuild, its full :) i did switch from redline to royal purple fluid.. maybe that made the difference.

while i was under there i noticed the bleeder valve on the slave has a slow leak around the threads so that will be fixed next. i think the valves usually come with sealant on the threads.. wonder what type is safe.

another new problem i noticed as well, instead of starting a new thread i'll include it here-- when i hold the throttle to 1.5k it will cause the rpms to dip down to 1.3 then back up, over and over. other rpm seem to be uneffected.

and yesterday the car started popping/backfiring more. today as well. i've probably idled the car for ~30min total since it was first started (its a rebuild) and driven ~10 miles. time for new plugs?

[DaveW]

well the stiffness feels normal to me now. only issue is seems like the plate isn't disconnecting all the way when i push the clutch pedal. kinda hard to get in gear. grr. it actually feels like it disengages completely if i don't push the pedal all the way down to the carpet, once i pass a certain point it re-engages slightly. hope its just a pedal adjustment issue.. something for manana :)

Just guesses, but this description makes me think of 2 things:

1. Pushing all the way down is making something in the pressure plate touch the disk (not too likely), or, more likely,
2. Pushing all the way down is getting the master or slave piston seal into a worn area in its bore, causing fluid to bypass the seal, resulting in partial re-engagement.

#2, plus the low engagement, may indicate worn cylinders, and that you may have to replace the master and/or slave.

[dudemaaan]

i think teflon tape should work on the threads for the bleeder thats leaking.

are you running the stock ecu? what kind of mods do you have? this will help diagnose the hesitation and fluctuation.

[DaveW]

i think teflon tape should work on the threads for the bleeder thats leaking.

Teflon tape is made to seal imperfections in TAPERED pipe threads. Bleeders seal on their ends, metal to metal. Teflon tape is unlikely to resist leakage on straight threads with the kind of pressure (up to 2000 psi) that brake systems generate. You might get lucky and slow it down, but it's not likely to work well.

Dave

[a7xh7]

still debating on what to use on the leak.

in the meantime my rev-drop/fluctuation problem is bugging me "when i hold the throttle to 1.5k it will cause the rpms to dip down to 1.3 then back up, over and over. other rpm seem to be uneffected."

also noticed today a few times when braking hard to a stop my revs would dip down then back up as well. fuel tank is full..

[Phoenix7]

well, if you can't stop the leak then you need a new line and slave.

As far as the RPM drop. Are you in gear driving or stopped in neutral?

No more 1337 posts for me.

[a7xh7]

neutral sir

[Phoenix7]

you've checked for vaccuum leaks? How many miles on teh motor? Injectors are clean? timing and TPS up to spec?

[a7xh7]

motor is recent rebuild. injectors were cleaned/flow tested but had been sitting for some time after cleaning, i bought them off a club member. timing and tps.. haven't checked them but i am on stock ecu and the same ecu/setup was used without this issue prior to rebuild. vacuum leaks.. pretty sure everything is hooked up right.. is there a reason that vacuum could cause this issue at only a specific rpm? the thought of injectors crossed my mind, but again, why only at this rpm. it would be great if i had more knowledge of the vac system and fuel/timing etc controls that are activated/involved at my problem rpm but im a relative novice :(