PDA

View Full Version : 20b/13b-re mount plans for FC


Revelc
06-09-2010, 01:25 AM
I'm looking to build some mounts for my 20b swap into my FC. I was curious if there were any publicly available plans that people have been using to do this before I go reinventing the wheel. I'd prefer not to buy them since I have access to some pretty decent fabrication tools.

Nismo
06-09-2010, 01:51 AM
Take two Drivers side FC mounts, the steel ones, and weld them to a plate that can bolt to the engine, make sure the engine sits level on the subframe, and you are set. This is the easiest way I have come up with, and the way I will be doing mine.

jamespond24
06-09-2010, 10:04 AM
Take two Drivers side FC mounts, the steel ones, and weld them to a plate that can bolt to the engine, make sure the engine sits level on the subframe, and you are set. This is the easiest way I have come up with, and the way I will be doing mine.

Interesting, you have pictures of the mount?

Revelc
06-09-2010, 10:28 AM
That sounds a lot easier than what I was considering. Initially I had thought I would rig something like this http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=718388. I can machine the spacers and the Delrin, it would just be a matter of getting the mount geometry right without having the car here. (Car is in storage at a buddy's house about an hour away while the engine gets worked on)

Nismo
06-09-2010, 11:24 AM
Interesting, you have pictures of the mount?

Like I said, it's not done yet, but this is how I am going to do it, the angles are already there, just have to make sure they sit at the same height, and weld some plate to the back to mount to engine.

That sounds a lot easier than what I was considering. Initially I had thought I would rig something like this http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=718388. I can machine the spacers and the Delrin, it would just be a matter of getting the mount geometry right without having the car here. (Car is in storage at a buddy's house about an hour away while the engine gets worked on)

I was dicking around with ideas for a longggggg time, and this just came to me one day when I was sorting spare parts.

project86
06-09-2010, 12:45 PM
are you guys building your own so you can also avoid issues like the sway bar and oil pan? or is it soley because you have the resources to DIY

Nismo
06-09-2010, 12:46 PM
are you guys building your own so you can also avoid issues like the sway bar and oil pan? or is it soley because you have the resources to DIY

I can so I will LOL. Never knew there were sway bar issues? Must be with the 20B only?

C. Ludwig
06-09-2010, 12:49 PM
Banzai sells mounts for the 20B/RE. Defined Autoworks has made mounts they claim are triangulated better than the Banzai mounts but when I emailed them about availability I never received a reply.

project86
06-09-2010, 12:57 PM
I can so I will LOL. Never knew there were sway bar issues? Must be with the 20B only?

Lol i dont blame you. Ya there are/or can be sway bar issues depending on the route you go. Ive been doing alot of research because i 20B is in my near future. Ive heard of ppl going as far as modifying the sway bar mounts.

Banzai sells mounts for the 20B/RE. Defined Autoworks has made mounts they claim are triangulated better than the Banzai mounts but when I emailed them about availability I never received a reply.

I sent them and email im guessin maybe 2 or 3 months ago and just got a reply a few weeks ago. they said there server was having issues.

Revelc
06-09-2010, 01:19 PM
project86 is correct. The oil pan and stock front sway bar attempt to occupy the same space. I'm trying to DIY simply because I have access to the tools, and to shave $200 off the build price.

Since I'll be having a new bar bent (see, that's where the $200 will go lol) the only requirement for me is that the mounts be low enough to provide clearance for the IC piping to the stock twins. Some of the hood supports will probably end up being cut out as well.

project86
06-09-2010, 01:47 PM
my application will be na. i forgot about hood clearances... one thing you can do to avoid the sway bar/oilpan issue is use the RX8 tranny. It moves the engine back 3in. i believe,according to more research and info from TTT (correct me if im mistaken). also i think that would allow for more room in the front of the bay so you didnt have to remount the radiator and use electric fans.

Revelc
06-09-2010, 02:07 PM
I've got a TII, so since the tranny is already bought and paid for I'd like to use that. Additionally, the stock TII radiator isn't enough to keep a 20b cool. You can pick up a koyo, build a shroud, and rob an e-fan from some crappy econobox for relatively cheap.

project86
06-09-2010, 02:22 PM
oh right. i figured the stock rad wouldnt be good enough. i was assuming having to remount regardless. i think i wanna use efan anyway.

TitaniumTT
06-09-2010, 04:19 PM
project86 is correct. The oil pan and stock front sway bar attempt to occupy the same space. I'm trying to DIY simply because I have access to the tools, and to shave $200 off the build price.

Since I'll be having a new bar bent (see, that's where the $200 will go lol) the only requirement for me is that the mounts be low enough to provide clearance for the IC piping to the stock twins. Some of the hood supports will probably end up being cut out as well.


Why fabricate an entirely new sway bar costing hundreds of dollars and probably go through two or three iterations before it's right when all you have to do is build a small spacer to drop the bar down slightly?


I've got a TII, so since the tranny is already bought and paid for I'd like to use that. Additionally, the stock TII radiator isn't enough to keep a 20b cool. You can pick up a koyo, build a shroud, and rob an e-fan from some crappy econobox for relatively cheap.

That trans sucks, and if you're using the 20B twins, you're stuck using the factory ECU or running them non-sequential. Eitherway the ratios in the TII box blow canadian moose cock. If I were to do a 20B I would rock the RX8 box and move the bitch back 3.625".

Something else to think about would be a custom AL oil pan fab'ed from some 1/4" AL, would also serve to stiffen the block slightly.

Lastly, not to sound like a dick, but this sounds like a really low buck 20B build. Low buck 20B don't belong together.

Revelc
06-09-2010, 04:42 PM
DIY != low buck by any means, especially when you have more tools at your disposal than a dremel. Yes, the twins are already changed to non-sequential, and the TII drive train will be fine for the time being.

If you've got details on the spacer, by all means show me some pics or drawings and I'll fab one right up.

EDIT: All the new oil pan setups I've seen are for dry sumps, which is a far more expensive ordeal than a new sway bar. Again if you've got drawings/pics let me know and I'll be more than happy to make one. The purpose of this thread was to find out what plans were in the public arena before I went reinventing things.

project86
06-09-2010, 05:17 PM
not speaking from experience here cause i obviously havent done anything yet... but it seems that making spacer for the sway bar should be a pretty straight forward affair. Oilpan on the other hand does not sound so easy.. but if your name is Brian... and youre half robot hahaa.....

Revelc
06-09-2010, 05:52 PM
Ah! You mean like this? http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=606029&highlight=oilpan

TitaniumTT
06-09-2010, 09:09 PM
DIY != low buck by any means, especially when you have more tools at your disposal than a dremel. Yes, the twins are already changed to non-sequential, and the TII drive train will be fine for the time being.

I do everything myself and I don't consider it low buck. There's DIY, and there's ghetto, and there's bought not built.

If you've got details on the spacer, by all means show me some pics or drawings and I'll fab one right up.

Think 1 1/4" AL bar stock drilled out and countersunk to bolt to the framerails, then two holes tapped ~1" farther forward to bolt the swaw bar mounts to. The LS1 guys use them, Granny's makes them I think.

EDIT: All the new oil pan setups I've seen are for dry sumps, which is a far more expensive ordeal than a new sway bar. Again if you've got drawings/pics let me know and I'll be more than happy to make one. The purpose of this thread was to find out what plans were in the public arena before I went reinventing things.

Build your own pan from AL, I thought that was clear. I never said anything about dry-sump ;)

not speaking from experience here cause i obviously havent done anything yet... but it seems that making spacer for the sway bar should be a pretty straight forward affair. Oilpan on the other hand does not sound so easy.. but if your name is Brian... and youre half robot hahaa.....

:rofl:

Ah! You mean like this? http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=606029&highlight=oilpan

do me a favor please and img blah blah blah /img tag it for me.... I'm banned again :lol:

Revelc
06-09-2010, 09:28 PM
do me a favor please and img blah blah blah /img tag it for me.... I'm banned again :lol:

Heh

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/patmanxc/Image037.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/patmanxc/Image039.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/patmanxc/Image040.jpg
stock
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/patmanxc/Image073.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/patmanxc/Image075.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/patmanxc/Image079.jpg

At the end of that thread patman gives his blessing for people to copy it, so I've sent him a PM.

On the topic of the oil pan, I read that as 1 1/4" because I'm retarded. Either way moving the sway bar forward is a much better solution for the time being.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/racing/platedrysump.jpg
That's what was in my head when you said new oil pan.

jamespond24
06-17-2010, 01:59 AM
Ok does anybody have pictures where they mount their oil cooler and want waterpump housing do they use?

hIGGI
09-18-2010, 02:48 PM
moving swaybar to the front is not option for drift car ;(
i am already hitting swaybar at full lock and with swaybar more to the front it will be worse..

justin lilley
09-18-2010, 05:12 PM
This is what worked on my FB
http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy191/justin-lilley/DSC00955.jpg
http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy191/justin-lilley/DSC00956.jpg

hIGGI
10-09-2010, 08:32 AM
moving swaybar to the front is not option for drift car ;(
i am already hitting swaybar at full lock and with swaybar more to the front it will be worse..

For my 20B FC i installed z32 swaybar last week, took me half the day to get it mounted, its 27mm, clears stock oil pan no problem and so far it works no problem (did only 800km street driving - breaking engine in)

And its no worse than Racing Beat swaybar i had before, when it comes to be in the way of wheels at full lock (spacers for tie rods installed, in steering rack, more turn for drift competition....)

RETed
10-09-2010, 12:09 PM
hIGGI needs to start his own 20B thread... :)


-Ted