View Full Version : Cerberus Part II!
Okay so TTT wanted to see what I've been doodling with for awhile, so I'll post up some pictures. They're just pictures for right now. I MAY be putting the car under the knife this weekend if everything happens correctly (still need to find a welder so I can build a proper mount).
Simple hand sketch of how I want to mount and plumb my cooling front end
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7640&d=1269667364
2D cut away of an intake manifold I will probably build as soon as I qualify my design with some CFD.
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7641&d=1269667373
My math that shows you I have too much time on my hands:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7642&d=1269667384
and for those that can't use their imagination here's a 3D view of part of my intake manifold design:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7643&d=1269667394
TitaniumTT
03-27-2010, 07:41 AM
I like it. Picture is a little fuzzy... what is the cylinder in the pass front corner?
(still need to find a welder so I can build a proper mount).
Welder or weldor? :suspect:
And that Math bring back memories of my AP calc class.... except that looks more like a nighmare than a daydream ;)
Scavenge pump.
I need to borrow someones mig. Shouldn't take me but a couple of hours, if that
FC3S Murray
03-27-2010, 10:49 AM
Those formulas make me want to put my face right through my computer screen. I hope the manifold works out for you. It is good to know we have some big thinkers in our rotary community, you seem to be a very virtuoso person.
project86
03-27-2010, 11:35 AM
my brain just turned to mush....
Just cut out the lengths and prepped them for welding which I'll do tomorrow. I'll also post up pictures of it. I ended up using 2in shy of 6 feet of angle iron. This mount will not bend/break at all--Unless I decided to wrap my car around a tree (don't worry I knocked on wood).
As for the math it's not THAT complicated. It's more algebra than anything. Well I think I took a derivative or two, but that's it.
Also what you can't really see B is the drain petcock; it's moved off of the T junction and is underneath the car itself so I don't have to finagle myself under it to drain it without a mess. Also the lower air intake vent may become automated so that depending on conditions and speed I can tell it to take in additional air from below the intercooler. Though that might be after I am able to paint the car and what not.
The Scavenge pump is setup to be cooled by incoming air as well and the reduction in the volume accessible by the air will increase flow velocity which means additional heat transfer from the radiator to the ambient air.
I'm still trying to figure out how to mount the fan properly (I'd prefer not to use the Autozone feed through pieces they sell), it's about 14in Diameter and the radiator itself tops out at 13.25 in at the core. I think that might just be enough to ensure maximum coverage of the fan without causing issue, but I'll be attempting to make a shroud and enable the fan to function much better than it's current setup.
Radiator mount will be fabbed up tomorrow, radiator fitment worked out, and additional issues will be figured out for certain.
TitaniumTT
03-28-2010, 01:49 AM
For a fan mount, skip that feed through garbage. Build a shroud that bolts in, slips in with the mounting, dzus fasteners, etc and mount the fan to that.
Other than that the setup looks and sounds awesome. What are going to be the parameters for how that flap moves, directs airflow?
Honestly I'm still figuring it out. I think a few main ones are coolant temp, air temp at intercooler, and car speed.
If atemp<some number
{
If ctemp>some other number
{
If speed>some number 2
{
Lip open
}
Else
{
Lip close
}
}
Else
{
Lip close
}
}
Else
{
Lip close
}
}
That's my thinking though. Also weather went to crap doesn't look like I'll be welding today, which sucks
Figured I'd post up another update for everyone. The weather has detoriorated to a thunderstorm and ~40 Degrees so I wont be welding up my mount today, so instead I hit the mounts a little bit so they can look nicer but still have a fantastic function.
Here's what I started with (a rough cut that I made just to do welding in a few hours):
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7653&d=1269808804
Mock up on radiator:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7654&d=1269808812
Since the weather went to crap I re-did some cuts and what not:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7655&d=1269808825
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7656&d=1269808835
And the end result:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7657&d=1269808843
More of the final result:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7658&d=1269809006
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7659&d=1269809015
Will post more when I finish the cross bracings.
by the way, all cuts and fitments were done by hand (Hack saw and file). I could weld this with a tig and it would look amazing!
Well, isolating a MIG to borrow for an hour or two has turned out to be harder than anticipated, but I should be able to weld it up this weekend (knock on wood). I've started modifying the radiator and hope to have it ready for TIG welding sometime next week. This includes not only the mounts that I hacked off from the original but also a brand new mounting scheme that I'm still figuring out.
I'm thinking I'll be able to just simply construct some aluminum mounts that mimic the factory mounts; my concern however is the vibration, force, and torque applied to the radiator from different locations and conditions will eventually deform the mounting holes and result in catastrophic failure of the radiator. I have become severely paranoid about that since the last radiator mount deteriorated so quickly.
Here's a rough 3D view of what I'm considering:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7707&d=1270255113
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7708&d=1270255119
As it stands, I still need to pick up some bulkhead fittings. one -4 and 2 -6 AN bulkhead fittings, and then I need to start cutting and bending the hard line to the application. I'll then be taking the lines to be flared at a hydraulics shop and fitted with the nickel AN nuts I bought recently. I'll also need to figure out the NPT size fittings for the drain petcock so I can put in a t junction to fit both the hard line and the Coolant Temp Sensor.
Speaking of which, does anyone know the thread pitch and what not for the coolant temp sensor? Pretty sure it's NPT.
I'm also probably going to begin construction of the fan shroud and mounting scheme tomorrow (hopefully I'll have the steel welding done too)... Busy, busy, busy.
So I finally found a welder, and I did some craptacular welds full of flux core. I also drilled out the holes for the bulkhead connectors (I didn't have a drill press or C-Clamps when I did those, so... I eyeballed it and used my feet).
Here's also the bulk head connectors that will be very useful for my uberclean cooling system.
Progress is slow...
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00059.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00060.jpg
Should be welded up tomorrow hopefully.
TitaniumTT
04-28-2010, 07:59 PM
Damn T, that looks damn awesome..... I don't know why I missed the update 2 weeks ago
It's all good, no worries. I can't wait for it to be welded up and then we can get the ball rolling on the recirculation tank. I still have a few things to do... All with steel line... gahhhh.
Went to a local hydraulics shop and had them flare this out for me: Here's a Mock Up:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00061.jpg
Welding should be done today around 5 or so.
I are furious! I installed the mount and radiator then while I was driving home a hose slipped off an adapter and dumped all my coolant on the road in front of my apartment. Pulled it into a parking spot, turned it off (clouds of coolant all over the place), opened the hood and see the entire engine bay sprayed in coolant.
Here's what it originally looked like before the coolant spraying everywhere:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00062.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00063.jpg
proz07
04-30-2010, 06:06 PM
Went to a local hydraulics shop and had them flare this out for me: Here's a Mock Up:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00061.jpg
Welding should be done today around 5 or so.
so the line was made by the shop or you did it and the shop flared for the B-nut? im curious cause i want to venture into some hard line stuff as its cheaper than all rubber/teflon AN's by about half even after getting the tools. and was wondering how it is to work with for bending fitting?
z
so the line was made by the shop or you did it and the shop flared for the B-nut? im curious cause i want to venture into some hard line stuff as its cheaper than all rubber/teflon AN's by about half even after getting the tools. and was wondering how it is to work with for bending fitting?
z
I bent, they flared. Not a bad gig honestly. I'm hoping for much more compact attachments.
I'll get pictures posted up tomorrow sometime with the new setup (fan, and mounting scheme)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00071.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00072.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG00073.jpg
Made that mounting scheme for the fan in 4.5 hours just in time to go drag racing. Now i'm looking forward to constructing my own intake manifold, and getting a proper standalone in there.
WE3RX7
05-02-2010, 09:13 PM
Looks good man... you back in Culpeper yet? We've been having some fun days in the garages working on 8s...
Not yet. Mid may... I'll check my voice mail tomorrow to double check but I want to say I start May 17th.
ta4545
05-03-2010, 08:33 AM
:icon_tup:
Looks good man... you back in Culpeper yet? We've been having some fun days in the garages working on 8s...
Will be back in town around May 17th (will have some work to do on the car too; just found out i'm leaking from a pin-hole leak behind the water pump housing).
Well, it's finals here at VT so I've been kind of swamped with studying (have a final at 445 in structures, which should be fun), but in between studying for finals I've found some fun in doing some CFD analysis for my manifold design (off the shelf manifold parts available for purchase via your local google store search)
Here are two pictures: First flow is roughly NA, second flow is under pressure.
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8045&stc=1&d=1273516444
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8046&stc=1&d=1273516455
I figure it's time for an update. Consequently a lot of work has been done with research into the proper intake manifold design. Here are some of my results. As you'll no doubt notice, the flow characteristics have not improved, but in fact have decreased significantly from the original flow pattern. Have no fear though, I still have a few things up my sleeve to nail down the proper flow.
Design Iteration 2: Modified Plenum Chamber:
Low Velocity
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8053&stc=1&d=1274235145
High Velocity
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8052&stc=1&d=1274235136
Design Iteration 3: Modified Runner Inlet Angle:
Low Velocity
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8055&stc=1&d=1274235164
High Velocity
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8054&stc=1&d=1274235155
So I talked to a guy I work with that actually does CFD analysis for a living and he's informed me that the reason that the manifold doesn't work correctly at high speeds is because the intake flow is too fast. This means it might be much, much easier to solve my problem than I originally thought, and it will mean I have ability to add some nice fancy features.
TitaniumTT
05-21-2010, 09:21 PM
That is some really cool shit T
Quick text update: I'm running more CFD and adjusting my design for the intake now. Talking with my only source for CFD understanding I have come to the conclusion the intake will be fairly transient with the current setup. I'm doing minor alterations to further correct the flow distribution to the runners, and should be close in the next few days. (I'm getting some flutter--not large--between the primary runners)
Here's a movie (or 2). The first video is actually the progression of the latter video (the latest design iteration). I need just a little more work to even out the flow on the number 3 and 4 runners (you'll see what I mean), but it's coming together a lot more quickly now.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/th_Intake_01_sym_a.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/?action=view¤t=Intake_01_sym_a.mp4)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/th_Intake_01.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/?action=view¤t=Intake_01.mp4)
(Side note, I'd like to host these directly on the RCC, but they're a little big for upload)
Son of a Bitch! The last little part of my manifold is starting to piss me off. So I went outside and bent some hard line for the scavenge pump I have sitting on my chest of drawers. I've got 1/2 done. The hardest line is about 1/2 done and that is the line that goes to my oil pan from the scavenge pump. It's got to go over the power steering rack, over the roll bar, under the turbo manifold, and under or around the wastegate. This is going to be quite the long line, but should prove kind of fun in the process.
Now that I think about it If I really, really, really, wanted to (which I don't since I've already got the bulkhead fittings and cut and mounted the radiator frame), I could have just mounted the scavenge pump on the frame rails some place. I didn't because I thought I'd take a piece out of TTT's book and go around my elbow to get to my ass (Nothing but love TTT).
I also should be buying the PS1k+digi dash bundle here in the next few weeks, which should be really nice. I'm getting excited. Now I just need to either decide if I want to wait on installing it until I build the intake manifold, or just install it and epoxy all my manifold lines on... oh the possibilities. lol
Suggestions/thoughts? I'm really open to what I should do timeline wise.
Here's an Update... Especially for B.
http://www2.haltech.com.au/images/site/products/Platinum_1000%20web.jpg
Suck it.
Force13b
08-19-2010, 06:48 PM
I have one of those to it's been in my car for the last year
2gslse
08-19-2010, 08:07 PM
Here's an Update... Especially for B.
http://www2.haltech.com.au/images/site/products/Platinum_1000%20web.jpg
Suck it.
LOL... :rofl::rofl::rofl:
Where did you get yours from? I was on the last buy though Ludwig motorsports but I havn't made any progress on my car lately :( so mine is sitting in the file cabinet should I take a pic of it for him?
WE3RX7
08-19-2010, 09:16 PM
I think you should... I'll print a few out and tape them to his ride next time he's around. Start hiding them EVERYWHERE, lol..
LOL... :rofl::rofl::rofl:
Where did you get yours from? I was on the last buy though Ludwig motorsports but I havn't made any progress on my car lately :( so mine is sitting in the file cabinet should I take a pic of it for him?
I got mine from Ludwig. I got a good deal from him so I'm happy about it.
I think you should... I'll print a few out and tape them to his ride next time he's around. Start hiding them EVERYWHERE, lol..
...:squint:....
I'm on to you.
Welp, the ECU arrived today! Who wants to help me tune ;)
I've been setting up the preliminary tuning table for the car (doing it from scratch because I'm a masochist) and I have some options that I think I like. Here's some screen shots.
I still need to do a few things before I begin to install the EMS. They are (in no particular order)
Pay second exhaust ticket
Buy exhaust components (mandrel bends, mufflers, etc)
Put car in the shop to get the exhaust welded up properly
Sell the RTek 2.1, Cable, and Palm T|X
Sell Prosport Gauges
Sell S4 Dash
Buy Vehicle speed Sensor (the transmission type)
Buy Amps for EGT sensors
Buy Coils/Igniters for Direct fire
Buy Digi Dash
Install ECU/Components
Sell engine components
Tune
Enjoy redline
Another update:
Received new mufflers to quite down my exhaust noise. Should be going to the shop to get it put on sometime in the not too distant future; just need to order and get some mandrel bends.
I also have finalized the intake geometry volume for the plenum I've been designing. The results will be posted shortly.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Vexed%20Industries/Intake_05_sym_07.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Vexed%20Industries/Intake_05_sym_06.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Vexed%20Industries/Intake_05_sym_05.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Vexed%20Industries/Intake_05_sym_04.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Vexed%20Industries/Intake_05_sym_03.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Vexed%20Industries/Intake_05_sym_02.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Vexed%20Industries/Intake_05_sym_01.jpg
Well the time has come for the car to go into the shop for a quieter exhaust system. All my parts for it have come in and I figure I'll let a professional have to swear at the car especially because he HAS to make it look nice and can't do a job like the midlands of 'that'll do'.
My exhaust system will be composed of the Racing beat universal 3in pre-silencer, a Magnaflow 3in inlet to dual 2.5in outlet to a dual Magnaflow 2.5in inlet/outlet circular mufflers without offset to dual Magnaflow 2.5in inlet/outlet with offset oval type mufflers. For those keeping count that's 6 muffling devices. This should quiet me down a lot. Some say this is overkill, some say it reminds them of a Ferrari exhaust, all I know is that if this doesn't quiet down the car I'm going to have to put in a 'buttplug' (into the exhaust system. Get your mind out of the gutter!).
WE3RX7
09-17-2010, 05:44 PM
Would you turn the volume down on a rock concert? I just dont get it, lol....
Would you turn the volume down on a rock concert? I just dont get it, lol....
Apparently Virginia LEO's do...
WE3RX7
09-19-2010, 05:20 PM
Lol... I have no issues with the LEOs.
When you get that exhaust done and the car tuned, I need another ride, lol... You should bring it up to KDR next time I go and strap it down...
Lol... I have no issues with the LEOs.
When you get that exhaust done and the car tuned, I need another ride, lol... You should bring it up to KDR next time I go and strap it down...
Will do, though I think that's a little ways off...
I would still need to figure out the intake arrangement before mounting and setting up the ECU. With the current arrangement it will just keep blowing couplings. I have the intake manifold design done, but still need to iron out the intake diffuser/TB adapter. This also takes money to get the materials and get friends to weld it up for me. So I still have a long way to go.
Not to mention I still need to buy and set up the digidash.
Well I will be going to pick up the car today and here's what the Shop said about it when I asked: How does it sound? Quieter?
VERY quiet. I left the mufflers bare at the back, no tip or extension cause I was not sure what you wanted to do. Looked funny with the 90's in there as turndowns lol
So it looks like I have some extra 2.5in mandrel bends in 304 without legs that I'm willing to let go for the price I bought them for $14.95/ea+shipping (or you can pick them up).
Speaking of exhaust I need to pick up some exhaust tips but I need to measure a few things first. But these are the one's I'm looking at (I'll probably be painting them black as to not gain unwanted attention):
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-690052_w.jpg
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-690053_w.jpg
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/imm-iad308212ns_w.jpg
Force13b
09-23-2010, 02:24 PM
#3
well, I need to post something. I'll be honest. I'm a little disappointed at how the exhaust turned out. They tried to mount the mufflers the way I wanted but ended up having to mount them the other way around so it wouldn't rub. I imagine given enough time and money I could make it the way I want, but I'm short on both.
I am happy to report that the car sound extremely quiet. The higher frequencies are all gone and it sounds like my exhaust is a gas powered sub woofer. The mufflers are tucked nicely, but they hang lower than stock so here's hoping I don't get pulled for exhaust again.
In other news my charging system is on the fritz. The story is that while I was driving to the shop to get the exhaust fixed up the charging system wasn't working until I took a corner faster than a regular person and stayed working for the 40 miles or so it took to get to Floyd, where it promptly stopped working right outside the shop. I tried to hunt for a lose wire when I went to pick it up but nothing seemed lose coming from the alternator to the post. I was running short of time so I just left the car there and said fix the charging issues for me.
I wait to hear back from him on what it was. I'm thinking it was just a loose line somewhere, but we'll see.
I dunno. #3 seems too sharp for my tastes... I'll see what I can come up with.
In the end I may just save some money and end up taking it up to Brian's to get everything the way I want it... but we'll see.
WE3RX7
09-25-2010, 11:10 AM
If you're going to paint them black, try to find some non-ss 304 tips.. easier to paint and would cost less. I wouldn't worry about the tips being shiny though, if they are larger than 3", than yea..maybe, but otherwise, most every new car has 2.5-3" polished exhaust anyway. LEOs just don't want to see the cans hanging way down and a loud note, thats what gets the attention.
Where did you get the work done? Back in blacksburg or near culpeper?
Pics or it didn't happen, lol....
If you're going to paint them black, try to find some non-ss 304 tips.. easier to paint and would cost less. I hear ya on that note, but I'm a stainless whore. The entire system is stainless, from the V-band adapter to the hangers. It's all stainless, why cheap out on the tips? :lol:I wouldn't worry about the tips being shiny though, if they are larger than 3", than yea..maybe, but otherwise, most every new car has 2.5-3" polished exhaust anyway. LEOs just don't want to see the cans hanging way down and a loud note, thats what gets the attention.Well.. I don't think the loud note is going to get me and the cans aren't hanging way down. It's just the amount of muffling devices I have in the car are rather big so they peak out from under the car a little. I think the only way to remedy it is to actually redo the down pipe, re orient the RB pre-silencer and shift it forward, bringing the 1-2 muffler forward and running new 2.5in pipes to the cans mounted the way I want. It's the only way I can think of doing it... which might mean I need to redo the turbo manifold to mount the wastegate a little better.
Where did you get the work done? Back in blacksburg or near culpeper?
Near Blacksburg. Honestly the mechanic is not at fault in this. I recommend his shop to anyone and everyone that wants good work done for a fair price. It just wasn't in the price range for a complete exhaust overhaul.
Pics or it didn't happen, lol....
I'll get pics as soon as I get the car back. Apparently it was the alternator. The cool thing is the mechanic is able to replace it under warranty, so I get a nice new alternator for free! w00t. I'll also need to order the parts for the FD alt I have sitting in pieces on my desk. I'm tired of not having enough amps.
I've also started working on the base map for the EMS. I'm taking the base map from the Sprint EMS and upping the resolution and applying a correction percentage for my injector size (more details on how I'm doing that in the tuning section if you're curious).
So I got my car back, and have been driving it for a few days. Went to top off some fluids and found this:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/IMG00161.jpg
So I'll be getting a new one under warranty, just have to make the phone call.
Sigh...
As for the exhaust it's really quiet. It doesn't start to become really audible until maybe 3000 RPM and I should be pulling exhaust db data for it sometime this upcoming week.
2gslse
10-02-2010, 07:30 AM
When you get the new alternator don't forget the spacer on the back side or it will do the same thing when the mounting bolt gets tightened it appears to be missing in that pic.
When you get the new alternator don't forget the spacer on the back side or it will do the same thing when the mounting bolt gets tightened it appears to be missing in that pic.
Yup, the spacer is gone. I think the guy I took it too had one of his techs do this job because he wouldn't make this sort of mistake. When I went to take out the alternator I noticed not only was the spacer missing by the nut on the back was gone too. I'll be having some words to bring this to my mechanics attention. Not only that but to get by without using the spacer the tech shoved the alternator in to a press and backed out the insert to take the space of the spacer. I am not amused. I'm fairly certain that those two things (the press and lack of spacer) that caused the alternator to crack.
So I pulled the turbo today to get it ready for some hard lines :)... but I ended up buying the wrong NPT to -AN adapter from summit. Looks like I have to go out and buy a new one, a spacer, and a flanged nut to get everything back together right. I also need to install my scavenge pump that's been sitting on my desk for a good year or so.
Turbo's getting re-installed tomorrow and hard lines will be bent and prepped for mounting.
So I didn't re-install the turbo like I said I would. I slacked. But I am still on the move to get things going. In particular; look what came in the mail today!
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/ECU/IMG00172.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/ECU/IMG00171.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/ECU/IMG00173.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/ECU/IMG00174.jpg
After years of digging, asking questions, and finally figuring it all out, I went ahead and bout me a cannon plug. I even have the Daniels crimp that I need to ensure proper crimping on the sockets and pins.
Now the question I must answer is where is the best location for the ECU to be mounted? I was thinking in the glove box for easy access to the usb port on the ECU. So... any thoughts on this?
WE3RX7
01-17-2011, 04:34 PM
Glove box for sure. I plan to mount mine in there as well.
Are you concerned with theft?
WE3RX7
01-17-2011, 05:56 PM
Lol.. no. Mine isnt a street car though....
Hmmm... I may just be paranoid.
TTT, when you get a chance would you mind telling me what heat shrink you used on your electrical connections? I'll need a 1.25 in of the cannon plugs to be heat shrinked and the stuff I've found local is really stiff which makes it almost unusable for the application I intend.
Edit: WE3RX7-- maybe this might be worthwhile for us?
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=usb+panel&hl=en&rlz=1C1AVSU_enUS359US359&prmd=ivns&resnum=1&biw=1176&bih=619&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=14205868836548911854&sa=X&ei=Ycw0TYSiEMPYgAfAlaTBCw&ved=0CIQBEPICMAI#
http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/IcOg-CCTBg_yQF2Kb-Qn_Gm7SxP-BdlNvSCcbvPH9bu_XuVaTaIG4xwLV-zBmjDty1PVOBX8P46QZdtQNlFabjVmcU6_ESosRXqNo6vZn8kX 4O2cXDtLEuirrIjb9AEbeRwEbaDCi644cADl754IjdwejF_Ugx 5Kx-vUW-ZvPeJaE7RZGCufLa7IW_ZV3lgH1LC-
or even
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=usb+panel&hl=en&rlz=1C1AVSU_enUS359US359&prmd=ivns&resnum=1&biw=1176&bih=619&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=7244151446708605381&ei=b800Tc-uLo3AgQf8lO2MCw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CJ8BEPMCMAk#
TitaniumTT
01-17-2011, 07:43 PM
Use that patch cable and mount it in the stock ECU position.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7553&stc=1&d=1268317059
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7554&stc=1&d=1268317967
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7683&stc=1&d=1269927280
TitaniumTT
01-17-2011, 07:45 PM
My heatshrink I usually get from WayTek Wire.
However, if you go to ProWireUSA they have a selection of heatshrink boots available for that plug. If you're going to be going on a 90* angle though you'll need the back-shell and the appropriote heat shrink boot. They are fucking awesome and worth every penny.
My heatshrink I usually get from WayTek Wire.
However, if you go to ProWireUSA they have a selection of heatshrink boots available for that plug. If you're going to be going on a 90* angle though you'll need the back-shell and the appropriote heat shrink boot. They are fucking awesome and worth every penny.
Cool. I'll try to look up the 90* angle. Are they the same sort of part number as the actual plugs?
TitaniumTT
01-17-2011, 08:45 PM
Kinda sorta, not really, but sometimes ..... yeah....
That's about as clear as mud.:lol:
Edit: From the Glenair catalog I found this part number which seems to be able to work:
M85049/39S23 N
Now I just need to hunt it down to buy the stupid thing.
TitaniumTT
01-17-2011, 10:45 PM
Look through the prowireusa website. They should have it. Pretty sure I saw it there. If not, give MoTeC east a call, they'll have it in stock or be able to get it to you. When I'm in a hurry, don't want to look shit up, not really sure about sizes etc etc etc... I just call them up and the next day it's in my hand....
NoDOHC
01-17-2011, 10:49 PM
+1 for stock location!
TitaniumTT
01-17-2011, 11:01 PM
I see an ICC box.... who turned you on to them ;)
I see an ICC box.... who turned you on to them ;)
You know darn well who you dirty old man.:smilielol5:
For the strain relief: I found them on ICC too ;) Price is similar to the plug prices. Just have to ensure I pick the right shell size.
So... I just ordered my digi dash and I need to thank Chris Ludwig from Ludwig Motorsports for the very awesome service. In fact I was so excited to deal with them that I actually did some car stuff :suspect:.... I know right? Anyways here we go:
Pics:
Mounted Haltech in stock ECU holder, with no metal band covering the unit. I may even be able to flip the PS1k around if I get the wires all lined up right and I put the cannon plug directly over the engine (no more hot exhaust to worry about). There's still a few little odds and ends I need to deal with before I go slapping it in (mostly deals with the amplifiers and the plug and how I'm still going to be fitting all the regular car things like the heater core and what not):
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/ECU/IMG00180.jpg
How I did it; no bands, and very sturdy.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/ECU/IMG00181.jpg
Scavenge pump installed, still need to do the wiring but it's very sturdy as well and won't be going anywhere anytime soon.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Turbo/IMG00178.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Turbo/IMG00177.jpg
Bad news; Digi-Dash is on backorder.
Electric speed sender got here. Ordered from www.speedometersolutions.com not a bad bit of hardware. Looks to be extremely robust. The only downside I see is thus far is that they did not include pulses/mile information with it. They have been emailed however (unless TTT you want to chime in) for the answer.
Speedometer solutions got back to me 16 pulses/rev~16000 pulses/mi
Now it's time to figure out a few bits and pieces of math (for gear calculator). I need to know MPH/1000 RPM for each gear. I'm going to hit up google, but if anyone has this knowledge off hand it would be much appreciated.
EDIT: Well, guess what I just did ;)
1st Gear: 5 mph/1000 RPM
2nd Gear: 9 mph/1000 RPM
3rd Gear: 13 mph/1000 RPM
4th Gear: 18 mph/1000 RPM
5th Gear: 26 mph/1000 RPM
As for 6th Gear... that I put at 0 mph/1000 RPM I may put it at 56 mph/1000 RPM so that it never gets selected--though I'm not sure which way I should go.
...So... I just spent over $400 in electronic components...
TitaniumTT
02-25-2011, 07:02 PM
Nice.... I'm going to blow you away when I tally what I'm buying for the Landi!
What did you get???
Ludwig put me on to some nice coils:
http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthumbwm/w/450/h/396/q/95/f/jpg/fltr/wmi%7CphpThumb/watermarks/034watermark%7CC%7C20%7C0/hash/bbbb2edef660739a6071ab5a4f8a869f/src/images/IGN1TTL.jpg
http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthumbwm/w/622/h/523/q/95/f/png/fltr/wmi%7CphpThumb/watermarks/034watermark%7CC%7C20%7C0/hash/bbbb2edef660739a6071ab5a4f8a869f/src/images/5-pin.png
That's the bulk of the purchases made. The other bits and pieces consist of stuff to make custom plugs, vac lines, and a silicon 90 bend to replace the last 90 degree turn that ended up being cracked.
My next round of purchases is going to consist of plugs to make the coils a stand-alone unit (make it so I can remove all the plugs at once without having to go fishing). That means 1 plug for batt ground and 12V batt and another for all the leads from the ECU.
TitaniumTT
02-25-2011, 11:38 PM
Those are the latest coils that I tested.... fucking stout coil. Picked up 4rwhp on my car and got rid of the misfire. I don't think they'll pick up much if anything over the Boschs when shes running the 12:1 that she should... but at 10.5:1 where we were, they got rid of the misfire and added 4rwhp uptop.... nothing down low where she was running where she should but yeah... damn fine coils those are. My only complaint about them is that they are BIG
All you need to make those a sub-harness is an 8 or 12 pin deutch. I've got my coils grounded to the mounting plate. I've got an M6 stud with an 8ga wire that daisy chains from the bat, to the power post, to the firewall, to the housings, to that little M6 stud then out to the coils. So when I pull the ignitions, it's only one 8 pin deutsch plug, 4 bolts and the plug wires and the whole thing comes off before you can say DEMS SUCK!
lol, I'm glad to hear that you were able to test those coils. I'm even more impressed that they did that much for you. Now I'm excited about them getting here and and couple that with the IQ3 dash that should come back in stock at some point in the near future; I'll actually have to start getting into the electrics of my car.
I think just due to money and time constraints I'll be holding off on buying parts for my custom intake manifold and will instead continue using the bastardization I call an intake. May consider picking up a Turbo II intake (if one crops up for under $50), but even that may be more trouble than it's worth. But then I'll have to figure out how I'm going to mount a full sweep TPS.... SUCKKKKKK.
I also still need to design and send you the designs for you to make me a coolant reservoir/recirculation tank, ugh. Soooo much to do still. Later today (it's after midnight) I'll get to do hard line bending. Oh joy.
WE3RX7
02-26-2011, 10:00 AM
Whatever, we all know the LS2 coils were just as good ;)
Tyler - one320fc just moved into your sister's neighborhood and we've been working on putting his '83 LE back together. When your through there next time, we should all get together. Apparently, there is a boosted miata there too...
TitaniumTT
02-26-2011, 10:14 AM
Whatever, we all know the LS2 coils were just as good ;)
pssssshhh... NO WE DON"T!!! For all we know those coils are the reason you didn't gain any power at all from the last time you were on the dyno. You should've with the changes you made.... LS2 coils included. Makes me wonder if the reason you and MC combined couldn't match the RE's power was because of those coils ;)
WE3RX7
02-26-2011, 01:05 PM
Hey now - you only beat our combined power AFTER you installed MC's coil. The way you brought your car in... it missed us by a few ponies, lol...
I will probably not use the LS2 coils after all on my FC... simple matter is that the other coils use standard terminals/boots and thus are less PITA to make wires for... and cheaper.
TitaniumTT
02-26-2011, 02:00 PM
Yeah but don't forget after you left we kept leaning her out and beat MC's coils with my Bosch's @ 11:1 before the L readings started getting farther adn farther apart and we just called it quits and spent an hour trying to get my car out of the snow :p
That's the nice thing about the quicksilver and the Boschs, same boots as the sparkplug boots. sooo yup, easier, cheaper to make and there are more options available. I'm still going to test the LS2's when I get a chance. TOOOOOOOO much other stuff to do before DGRRXI though... Oh, and between you and me..... Brian should've gotten the spindle yesterday :suspect:
WE3RX7
02-26-2011, 02:27 PM
Oh, and between you and me..... Brian should've gotten the spindle yesterday :suspect:
Excellent... e x c e l l e n t....:biggthumpup:
Whatever, we all know the LS2 coils were just as good ;)
Tyler - one320fc just moved into your sister's neighborhood and we've been working on putting his '83 LE back together. When your through there next time, we should all get together. Apparently, there is a boosted miata there too...
Sounds like a plan. If everything goes as planned I should be up there again this summer. I'm still waiting to hear from the internship, and I should be good to go then.
I was able to bend some hard line today and it looks pretty good. I have one more pipe to bend and trim a few others and then all my hard line piping is done for this step (I may revisit later when I have a garage, time, and money). I have to say that bending hard line to get to a point 3/8 of inch away from horizontal, but just far enough way to be unable to do a 180* turn with it makes for hard bending. On top of it all, I broke my tube bender. I'll need to find another/better one; rather than a Summit Special.
Sensor suite ordered. Digi Dash should be shipping out in a couple days too. w00t!
So while I wait for the stuff to get here I started crimping the plug:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Standalone%20Install/IMG00190.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Standalone%20Install/IMG00189.jpg
Those are EGT amp circuits :)
TitaniumTT
03-02-2011, 03:19 PM
mmmmmmmmm... mil-spec connector....mmmmmmmmm
I have to say, I love these crimps. I didn't realize how much I would like the mil-spec crimp, but it makes things soooo much easier to deal with. I'll need to get some large heat shrink soon too to wrap the circuits up.
Coils came in today and I secured mounting hardware to keep them nice and organized. Pics will follow tomorrow probably (need to pick up some additional washers to increase spacing between coils). Also got word from Ludwig about my new sensors and Digi dash. Hopefully I'll get those before the week is out--spring break and all--I hope to get the dash put together in similar fashion to this:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9806&d=1299481137
It's coming! It's coming!
.... That's what she said.
Weather has been an ass lately so I haven't had an opprotunity to install the ECU and run the harness, cut the hole, cut the harness, crimp and install plug. Hopefully tomorrow or the day after. :(
Did a test fit with a mocked up dash:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9835&d=1299883416
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9836&d=1299883429
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9838&d=1299883466
As you can see there's some gaps around the dash that I need to fill for a good look/feel. However, the angle, fit, and location of the digi-dash I think is spot on. Opinions?
chibikougan
03-11-2011, 07:39 PM
Lookin good and you saved the environment double because you recycled the recycled cardboard. Make sure and recycle it again when you are done.:rofl:
I like how you centered it too.
Haltech is mocked up. Had to stop for the day as daylight was fading fast. Snapped some pics
TitaniumTT
03-12-2011, 11:37 PM
Why go through that side? Where are you mounting it? You need a garage man... I was working straight until about 1/2 hr ago when I started cleaning up
Honestly it's the only place available to me that even has the room. My original plan was to come in directly over the transmission tunnel, but as it would be too much work to pull the entire dash outside, I decided to go through the former speedo cable hole. I'll be enlarging it and mounting the cannon plug there.
I prefer this side as opposed to the stock location because it puts it far from the exhaust and the high tension leads aren't going to play an issue. So that eliminates two potential problems. I'm planning on wrapping the engine compartment portion of the harness in heat shrink as well as heat repulsive wrapping (fiber glass and aluminum shell) should make short work of any other ambient heat.
If you have another location that might work better, I'm open to it.
Next weekend I'll begin working on pulling the pins for some of the stock features that are carried through the original stock harness (why on earth did Mazda use the engine harness as a proper means to pass the wiper motor wires through?), as well as begin fabrication of the dash surround (vinyl wrapping--see fabrication section for more details), and construction of the digital dash mounting plate, which should prove to be quite enjoyable...
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9922&stc=1&d=1300335901
The dash is coming together nicely. I should have a more up-to-date mock up done by the weekend. Fabrication of the dash will also begin on the weekend.
NoDOHC
03-20-2011, 03:21 PM
Just go through the stock hole and run out the firewall. That always worked for me.
If my camera was working I would get a picture.
Too big (that's what she said) for me to use the cannon plug and it's right next to the turbo. Going through this hole actually avoids the head from the turbo, is small enough to use the cannon plug, and puts it closer to the engine.
The only alternative I see that would prove just as beneficial would be to drill a hole directly over the transmission, but even that would be plagued with difficulty.
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10071&stc=1&d=1301204333
More updates to follow later.
rx71king
03-27-2011, 01:48 AM
nice..:biggthumpup:
WE3RX7
03-27-2011, 08:51 AM
What is that made of? Foam and you just wrapped it?
Looking good so far. You going to bring this beast back to Culpeper so I can get another ride, this time with some POWER :)
What is that made of? Foam and you just wrapped it?
Aluminum. (if you check the fab section you'll see more details)
Looking good so far. You going to bring this beast back to Culpeper so I can get another ride, this time with some POWER :)
yes. I'm planning on bringing it up with me. I still need to do a few things to it (which will probably be next weekend weather permitting. Which include marking of the ecu harness for cutting. Getting some hardline hoses flared for the oil re-circulation via a scavenge pump--though I'm debating if I can get away with it for right now or not (probably not since the oil is being released underneath the oil level of the oil pan--the turbo is high, but the point of entry to the oil pan is below the surface of the oil).
After that I get to isolate specific outputs and inputs for use in the inside of the cabin. Crimp up the cannon receptical and install the ecu end of things... In fact I still have a rather large list to enumerate what I still have to do...
Buy Duetsch connectors for all the different plugs I'll need
Bend aluminum for ignition coils
Drill and mount coil pack
Wire up coils
Wire up new sensor suite
Crimp cannon plug
Order USB bulkhead connectors
Mount USB bulkhead connectors
Wire up Dash
Wire up internal (to the cabin) inputs and outputs from ECU
Order new pipe bender since my last one broke, to finish oil recirculation route
Design, cut, and send out for welding a recirculation tank.
Wire up dash
I'm sure there's more... but I just can't think of anything else right now. Who wants to come down to Blacksburg and help me get it all taken care of?
I just bought some Deutsch connectors, aluminum tube (to replace the steel I bent up... something just doesn't feel right if I were to use the steel tube), and a 180* bender. The new list currently consists of:
Buy Duetsch connectors for all the different plugs I'll need: Done :)
Bend aluminum for ignition coils
Drill and mount coil pack
Wire up coils
Wire up new sensor suite
Crimp cannon plug
Order USB bulkhead connectors: Done :)
Mount USB bulkhead connectors: Location known--it's not the glove box :)
Wire up Dash: In Progress
Wire up internal (to the cabin) inputs and outputs from ECU
Order new pipe bender since my last one broke, to finish oil recirculation route: Done :)
Design, cut, and send out for welding a recirculation tank.
I'm also working on getting some of the interior taken care of this summer. I'm thinking of re-upholstering the arm rest business with the same vinyl I used for the dash, and I'm currently doing research on SPAL power window units for easy implementation and replacement of the stock motor/assembly as well as the switches.
Next winter will be dealing with the dashboard and the rest of the interior--though I don't know of any places that sell new carpets, let alone skuff plates. I'll probably get in touch with Mazda about those.
I tried coming up with something funny... Instead I just put this:
I also got tired of my arm wrest being a piece of crap. So I decided to wrap it in the same vinyl I did the dash in.
This is also the gangstar USB cable I picked up. It contracts to a length of 2.5 feet but has a maximum stretch of 10.5 feet.
WE3RX7
04-01-2011, 07:47 AM
Looks good.... got a finished shot of that armrest?
It's still under construction. I'll probably have one by the end of the day (wrapping always seems to take forever to me).
So I finished up the center console and the arm rest. Here's the pictures. A keen eye will note that I no longer have the AAS switch, and I do have plans for that area; but for right now it's just black acrylic.
so... I did a test run :)
Everything works. That's a good sign right?
NoDOHC
04-02-2011, 10:44 PM
Looks Good! The dash indication for all that information must be nice.
It's pretty cool... I've only setup two pages on the dash, but it is awesome so far. I have to setup the warning lights to function how I want (I'm thinking oil pressure, coolant temp, Fuel pressure, EGT's, and AFR's), but that will come in time. I'm just chomping at the bit to get the car up and running now.
Hey! Look! I did something that doesn't involve wiring:
Working on the engine harness. Have wired up EGT's WBO2, MAP, TPS, CTS, and the ATS. I will be wiring a little more tonight, but it's getting pretty tiring... and I still need to crimp the cabin side of things.
So I thought I was half way done with the harness... Only to see the vehicle speed sensor not wired in. Do'h!
Almost done with the cannon plug crimping. Just need to crimp in 13 more wires on the cabin side and I'll be ready to start arranging the leads and crimping them to the sensors. Get excite.
Just out of curiosity what's the best thing to wrap the engine harness in?
Cannon plug is crimped (as much as I'm going to do for now). New radio holder/bracket is installed... Broke my center vents; which means I'll have to order some new ones later on. Boxes are wired up and installed. Ordered some silicon and couplers to better handle the BAC valve and what not. Still have a few odds and ends to button up, but should be good... I think? Hopefully tuning by the end of the week (just have to make sure I get all the parts in).
My car has decided to nickel and dime me on the engine harness. I'm now waiting on:
the raychem
Deutsch connectors
EV1 Injector Crimps
I'm also waiting on a silicon elbow which should have been delivered today... but has yet to show up.
I've been hunting some of those things locally in an attempt to get it all without shipping or waiting. The long and short of it is... I've stalled on the project a week before crunch time. If I get lucky and get those things before the end of the week I should be tuning it on Friday. In the mean time here are some pictures of the intake I sort of re-did to make due until I make a completely new intake.
Update: The things came in that week, but so did a butt load of tests. Needless to say I didn't finish in time.
In other news I've drilled and tapped the intake manifold for the new ATS, I've also trouble shot an issue with my WB. Note: when you work with shielded wire make sure to peel back and remove enough of the shielding as not to accidentally crimp the shielding to the connector and prematurely ground out the signal.
I'm also trying to figure out how to display the EGT's on the IQ3. I'll be posting hopefully good news later this week about the car being up and running and beginning the tuning process.
Okay, update time:
I had to put the project on hold while I did finals, which paid off rather well. It looks like I passed all my classes which means I'm down to 3 classes I need to take for an entire year next year. As it stands that means my car got relegated to the back burner during those two weeks. I'm now in the process of double checking everything and getting it ready to tune.
I've begun the preliminary cranking and have built up oil pressure so I know that the oil pressure sensor and scavenge pump are working correctly (I've wired in the scavenge pump to turn on when I turn the car on). I also know that both the home and trigger signals are getting to the ECU without issue and watched the counter increase as I built up oil pressure.
I still need to check timing, but that is rather difficult when you're doing this by yourself. Will be posting throughout the day to update the forum as it goes.
New gear oil and motor oil has been added. Just trying to hunt down someone to help me with timing.
WE3RX7
05-14-2011, 01:21 PM
You have my number, lol... are you in culpeper or down in blacksburg doing this work?
Blacksburg--otherwise I would have called you. :lol:
Timing is set. All sensors report well except what looks like the fuel pressure sender. Will have to troubleshoot that when the rain lets up. I currently have the battery being charged so I don't wear it out too quickly.
TitaniumTT
05-14-2011, 08:50 PM
I can't stress enough how important it is to log FPSI and it's good to have a comp table set up as well :suspect:
Welp... I figured out why the FP wasn't reading correctly. This idiot crimped the shielding on to the crimp of the mil spec connector. do'h. I have one last female crimp left. so I'll be removing that tomorrow and recrimping it. I'll also begin the process of attempting to figure out why the car won't start, and may even restab the cas and double check the timing once again.
Car has started but there's a few things wrong that I've found so far:
the car is leaking oil like a sieve from the turbo drain flange. I have to wait for the car to cool down and figure out a way to tighten it. May need to remove the compressor housing and go at it that way.
The car is running improperly. It's pulling a vacuum of -3.9 inHG at almost 1000RPM. Which isn't right. It should be pulling much, much more than that. I've checked for a vac leak, but couldn't find any.
The car also seems to be running peculiarly... almost like it's missing. On top of that the AFR is reading in the neighborhood of 12:1 which is way off (should be reading just under stoich).
One of the EGT's isn't reading correctly and I think it might be that the wires or the amplifier got fried some where. anyways it sounds like it's running on two rotors; the EGT I can read says that at idle i'm putting out somewhere in the neighborhood of 750-1000F.
I think this is informing me that I have a lot of tuning to do. If anyone is available to help me today, please help me. I need to get my car up and running/drivable today at the latest.
WE3--If you're willing to make a road trip to help me I would greatly appreciate it.
TitaniumTT
05-15-2011, 11:08 AM
The car is running improperly. It's pulling a vacuum of -3.9 inHG at almost 1000RPM. Which isn't right. It should be pulling much, much more than that. I've checked for a vac leak, but couldn't find any.
Compression test before anything, and make sure your MAP sensor is calibrated properly
The car also seems to be running peculiarly... almost like it's missing. On top of that the AFR is reading in the neighborhood of 12:1 which is way off (should be reading just under stoich).
No, that's about right, I would even say a little lean for cold startup
One of the EGT's isn't reading correctly and I think it might be that the wires or the amplifier got fried some where. anyways it sounds like it's running on two rotors; the EGT I can read says that at idle i'm putting out somewhere in the neighborhood of 750-1000F.
Swap the inputs and see if it reads backwards. Meaning #1 is running ~750*, swap it with the number 2. If #2 is now running 750* than it's safe to say that it's a wiring problem. If #1 now reads what #2 was reading.... mechanical problem
I think this is informing me that I have a lot of tuning to do. If anyone is available to help me today, please help me. I need to get my car up and running/drivable today at the latest.
WE3--If you're willing to make a road trip to help me I would greatly appreciate it.
psssssshhhhhh, what does WE3 know about a rotary that makes more torque than my lawnmower? :smilielol5::rofl::lol:;)
Well, looks like I won't be driving the 7 up this week. I've worked out my issues with the MAP, apparently the nipple I chose to have the MAP mounted to is a piece of crap that doesn't do anything. I've tee'd off the next nipple that was pulling vacuum and it's now reading the proper vacuum for the engine. I'm in the -20 to -15 range. I have a stable idle and am working on leaning everything out to reduce the RPM's to the proper levels (currently likes to idle high by about 500 rpm). Still have some issues to work out with the oil burning (I'm thinking the carbon seal on my turbo is gone). But that might be a project for another time and another person.
Just heard from Racepak, they're shipping out my newly repaired dash today. :lol:
Dash is installed, but I'm having more issues with the car. I'm so annoyed right now.
Before I left I was able to have it idling strong without issue--Now the stupid thing barely starts and when it does it stalls out after about 3 seconds. I have spark, I'm fairly confident I have fuel, but without the fuel sender actually displaying the values I'm blind on that front; though I did hook up the mechanical gauge and got a reading of 45.3psi which gradually fell after the key was turned. It's almost like it has a massive vac leak which I should be able to see... but I can't.
Any ideas?
I'm sick of this car--It won't even start anymore. I have spark, I'm fairly confident I have fuel. What's left?
Does anyone have a Haltech map I could use to troubleshoot?
TitaniumTT
05-29-2011, 06:20 PM
Crank it over with the mewchanical fpsi installed and make certain ther is indeed a fresh good supply of fuel.
How long has that fuel been in there?
When was the last time you changed the filter?
When was the last time the injectors were cleaned and flow tested?
After you're certain you have fuel and she still ain't right, compression test time.
TitaniumTT
05-29-2011, 06:20 PM
Crank it over with the mewchanical fpsi installed and make certain ther is indeed a fresh good supply of fuel.
How long has that fuel been in there?
When was the last time you changed the filter?
When was the last time the injectors were cleaned and flow tested?
After you're certain you have fuel and she still ain't right, compression test time.
Crank it over with the mewchanical fpsi installed and make certain ther is indeed a fresh good supply of fuel.
How long has that fuel been in there?
When was the last time you changed the filter?
When was the last time the injectors were cleaned and flow tested?
After you're certain you have fuel and she still ain't right, compression test time.
Something was up with the fuel; for some reason the fuel pump wasn't getting power. I jiggled the electrical connection and it roared back into life.
Now it's tuning time. I need to get it streetable in less than 8 hours tomorrow (and then safety inspected). We'll see how that goes. I can't seem to get the idle dialed in without it dying out, which is quite annoying. It idles fine at 2000 RPM but when I attempt to get it down to 1000 RPM it doesn't like it very much and stalls.
Fuel sender still doesn't read correctly even though there is no grounding out issues. I had to adjust the trigger angle while tooth offset is set at 10 the trigger angle has moved to 61 degrees, which I think is peculiar.
Anyone have any pointers?
TitaniumTT
05-29-2011, 10:21 PM
Something was up with the fuel; for some reason the fuel pump wasn't getting power. I jiggled the electrical connection and it roared back into life.
Now it's tuning time.
No way man....... It's time to swap out that POS stock connector with something a little more reliable.
lol... yeah, I know you're right--But I've also remedied the original cause of the issue. Which is all I can afford to do right now. I'm going to post a question in the ECU/Tuning section about map importation in the Haltech software.
Bringing the car up to Culpeper this weekend. Should be fun.
WE3RX7
07-24-2011, 10:39 PM
Hey man - didn't know you were up. How long you in town for?
Sorry I haven't updated this thread in some time. WE3RX7, what were your thoughts of my car and how crappy it is?
I'm revisiting my cooling setup and will actually be building a proper recirculation tank in the coming weeks. I'll also be starting duct work on it; if I can keep the apartment clean enough to make sure that it's not going to take forever to do. Hopefully doing this will remedy my cooling woes that I have while cruising--I'm a slacker, what can I say?
WE3RX7
08-20-2011, 09:52 AM
It runs a lot better than it did a year ago, but you really need to get that um, boost leak, fixed :)
Once that is fixed, it should be a huge improvement. Sorry we didn't get together this past weekend, I got into other work-related projects... send me a text when you get back into town again.
LOL, just got to find a bead roller.
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