rx2 sway bar

[sen2two]

My sway bar mount has basically rusted off completely off on one side. Im repairing the metal in the frame now, but im wondering if the front sway bar is needed. Or can i just remove it completely. The car is being built for drag strip only. no street driving or auto-x'ing.

[jgrewe]

Front bar is used as a trailing arm as well. If you take it off you need make up for it some other way.

[sen2two]

got any ideas?

my mounts for the sway bar are rusted beyond repair. One mount came off with the sway bar, as it was rusted so bad it removed itself from the frame...

[Rotarydave]

This is a very common problem i would also be very worried about the frame rail itself on that side i have usually seen the frame rail fail before the the mount.

[sen2two]

So i have a few ideas, but im semi-new to building custom suspension. And imm not sure what would work. Especially when it comes to the old school 1985 and older rx7 type suspensions...

[bwaits]

Many of the "tub" GT cars and E-Prod Rx3s I have seen added stay rods like those used on the first gen suspension. This eliminated the sway bar as a locating member, allowing tubular, aluminum arm style sway bars to be used.

I know the car you have. I would tube from the firewall forward using the frame rails just before the sway bar mounts. Then use "A Arm" lower control arms with custom pick up points. Since it is a drag car nailing the front suspension geometry will be fairly straight forward.

-billy

[sen2two]

I agree with everything you said 100%. And tubing the front would be the easiest way right now. But i want to keep it a 100% stock chassis car. So im doing everything i can to keep it that way. Dosnt have to be beautiful. Im more concerned with safety and function...

have any pics of that 1st gen set?

[sen2two]

well... I got a little idea today. While looking for a way to get rid of the sway bar and possibly making a tubular subframe.

I have a spare FC subframe/steering/brakes/struts/ect... basically everything up front. I seen a few people use FC subframes succesfully in a 1st gen. And i would love to put these spare FC parts to use instead of collecting dust in my garage. But the FC subframe is just too wide for the narrow Rx2. I thought it would be about the same width, but they are not even close. So i was thinking about cutting a section of the subframe out (center) to reduce it down to the correct width. Basically just shortening the FC front subrfame by about 6". Then i should only need to fab up some shorter tie rods for steering.

If im looking over something major here, please point it out before i cut a perfectly good subframe in half...

[jgrewe]

That sounds like it could work with the FC stuff. IIRC the FC 4 bolt pattern is the same as the GSLSE stuff you got from me.

The only catch I can see would be the length of the steering arms compared to the control arms, you could end up with some wicked bump steer.

If you end up looking at a full tube front, my frame rack will be empty in a few weeks. I spent the day blasting my front clip prepping it for attaching it to the back half.

[bwaits]

But i want to keep it a 100% stock chassis car.

I see. That chassis is not in the best shape to keep in fully stock. Sometimes it takes 2 cars to make 1 good one :)


That sounds like it could work with the FC stuff. IIRC the FC 4 bolt pattern is the same as the GSLSE stuff you got from me.

The only catch I can see would be the length of the steering arms compared to the control arms, you could end up with some wicked bump steer.

I agree, the FC stuff *could* be an option. Since the Rx2 uses a separate crossmember to mount the engine narrowing the FC subframe will not jack up your engine mounting but should still clear the sides of the motor when narrower.

Another thought would be to use the Rx2 crosmember to frame rail mounting locations then use the FC lower control arm mounting locations and build a tube structure to handle both aspects.

The last issue I see is that the FC struts are super short compared to the Rx2 parts. (I can actually get a measurement later today between the two) This is going to severely lower the car at static ride height. You will need to sort this part out.

Shoot for the inner pivots of the steering tie rods to be the same as the center to center of the lower control arm inner pivots and you will be close. If any bump steer exist then it will be low enough to adjust at the outer tie rod (as long as you plan for adjustment there)


If you end up looking at a full tube front, my frame rack will be empty in a few weeks. I spent the day blasting my front clip prepping it for attaching it to the back half.

Sounds like an offer you can't pass up :)


-billy

[sen2two]

Im going to attemp the FC parts first. If it dosnt work out, ill be forced to tube frame the front end. But i would like to at least try this first...

Since this will be a strict drag car trailor queen. Im not to concerned with bump steer. I could also make some a-arms from chromolly if need be. But i didnt even think about strut heights. Did you get a chance to take a measurement between the two?

[bwaits]

Yep, Rx2 is ~24" and FC is ~20". This is measured from the centerline of the kingpin to the top of the threaded strut shaft - when fully extended.

-billy

[sen2two]

The more i look at this front end, the more i think im stuck with tubing it. I found some more HEAVY cancer in the frame rails i hadnt noticed before. damn it...

[bwaits]

I am glad you are coming to that solution. You will be happier in the long run.

You can also still use FC suspension bits. Weld the upper strut mount a few inched lower than stock and the shorter strut will not be a problem. A pair of tubular lower A arms using the FC lower ball joint would be a piece of cake. Simple plate style engine mount, if done correctly it could serve the mount the rack as well.

Could be a sick car.

-billy