Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild [Archive]

TitaniumTT

01-13-2010, 01:52 AM

So it's time to start a new. I figure we can devote this new thread to all the new doing's that are going on with the FC and leave the old DGRR '09 thread as what is has become, a blog of sorts :rofl:

So, what's in store for the ole' FC for DGRRX?

Well, first and foremost is a bath, a glaze and a wax. Then I'm going to find a slow draw on the electrical system. There's something from the factory that is killing the battery over the course of a few days. After that the interior is coming out, completely. Then the hood's coming off, the fenders, the doors, the engines coming out, the hatch is coming off, the sunroof and motor, all the suspension is coming out, the fuel tank is getting dropped, all the fuel/brake lines are coming off and what remains will get taped up and be put up on the rotisserie.

With the car upside down there is a little bit of undercarriage rot that needs to be addressed, as well as some strengthening of the, jackpoints that aren't jackpoints. I'm thinking about welding in some 1/4" plate and reinforcing it so that I can jack one side of the car at once while @ the track. After all that is done, the entire undercarriage will be epoxy primed and herculined - P/U truck bedliner material.

Then the reassembly begins. New, I repeat NEW S5 fuel tank and straps, the tank will probably be externally lined as well. The fuel and the brake-lines will be reinstalled, my rebuilt Torsen rear so Alex can have his back, and his fuel tank :rofl: the suspension will be put back on and the car will be put on the ground.

Once down it's time to finish installing the RX8 seats with the new welded nuts that I'm planning on installing. Then the interior is getting a few coats of Lizard Skin. After that it's time to start with the traction control. A little bit of wiring through the interior up to where the factory ECU once lived for the MoTeC Traction Control Multiplexer. Then of course it's all coming out to be put into the factory wiring. Also planning on cleaning up a few of the wiring that I installed over the past 13 years. Things that I installed that should've been in the factory block will eventually end up there, along with the cut-off switch etc etc, and there is a dead wire in the Front Harness that needs to be hunted down, moving the fuel pump switch to the rear, installing an inverter :suspect: new amps, a new sub maybe........ I hate wiring.

So then it's time for the interior to go back together. Nothing is really getting changed with the exception of the armrest, e-brake cover and shifter boot from redline, and a new 6-spd shift knob :suspect: Installing the seat belts but redoing the webbing in Black or grey to match the rest of the interior. Hoping to get a new steering column cover, repaint the shifter and stereo surround and buliding some sort of custom cup holders.... I know I know, but I need a steady supply and a good place to put my RedBull for the trip down. I'm thinking something that comes out of the glove box when it flips down and is totally invisible otherwise.

Once the interior is back together, it's time to address the engine. There are a few things that I want to address with the setup. First is the fuel system... yes still. There are some new injectors that hit the market recently that should not only solve the duty cycle issues that I'm having (93%) and the linearity of them is supposed to be incredible. Ontop of that I'm swapping out to some LS2 Yukon coils or a Bosch unit. Still need to make a phone call to decide on which setup. Then I need to find an equally sexy way to mount them as the LS1 coils that I have now.... then some new wires as well and figuring out which of my turbo cartidges are leaking a bit.

The Alternator, Waterpump, a few other bits of intake piping, some tanks and the strut tower braces are getting recoated so that they match perfectly.

The hood, front bumper and sunroof are getting repaired and repainted and if there is time the doors as well. Once everything is assembled the last order of business is the belly pan that I've been putting off as well as the front brake ducting. I've decided to hold off on the BBK becuase I simply don't need it. I'm able to lock up the front brakes even with the race tires on, I don't have any brake fade issues as of yet, and the $$$$ can be better spent on the FD project in the future. I will however swap the rear calipers as I'm pretty sure they are sticking slightly.

So, to recap and give a list -
1) Bath
2) Glaze and wax
3) Fog engine
4) Find slow draw
5) Strip interior
6) Remove hood, fenders, doors, hatch
7) Pull Engine/trans
8) Strip engine bay
9) Drop Fuel tank
10) Remove all fuel/brake lines
11) Strip all harnesses from car
12) Tape Chassis
13) Put the girl on the Rotisserie
14) Address the undercarriage rust/rot
15) Strengthen "jackpoints"
16) Fab NEW jack points
17) Prime undercarriage
18) Hurculine UnderCarriage
19) Install Fuel/Brake Lines
20) Install NEW fuel tank
21) Install Torsen rear and front/rear suspension
22) Take the girl off the rotisserie and get her on the jackstands, on the new points
23) Fabricate the remaining seat mounts
24) Lizardskin the interior
25) Install the sensors for the Traction control and run the wires.
26) Mount the TCM and remount the MoTeC where the factory ECU once lived
27) Re-wire some of the power for the PW,PDL, alarm, MoTeC, fuel pump etc etc etc.
28) Neaten up all the harnesses and re-install them
29) Fix the wiper switch :banghead:
30) Repaint the shifter surround, center surround
31) Re-install the interior with all the new bits, seats, seatbelts, etc etc.
32) Mount RedBull holders :lol:
33) Install new headunit, new PDX5 amp, new sub, and inverter
34) Fix the seeping front cover o-ring, new oil pump
35) New injectors & fuel rails
36) New coils and wires
37) Replace seeping cartridge
38) Repowdercoat/Ceramic coat a few of the bits that need to be
39) Install engine and super secret trans :suspect:
40) Fabricate trans mount
41) New Custom AL driveshaft
42) New intake piping?****
43) Repair/Repaint front bumper, hood, sunroof, and doors if there is time.
43) Fabricate AL belly pan and brake ducting
45) Install the custom AL washer bottle and figure out where to hide the nozzles.
46) Alignment
47) Corner Weighting
48) Rebalance tires
49) Back to KDR for some dyno tuning :cheers2:

Not a bad list, but there are only 94 days left until it's time to leave...... yikes..... I better get my shit together..... but take it apart first, like ALL the way apart :smilielol5:

TitaniumTT

01-13-2010, 02:11 AM

Question as I am undecided...... Do I want to keep the intake piping as is
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4933&stc=1&d=1238395194

or redesign it to use only one filter such as this one

http://www.knfilters.com/images/l/RD-4400.jpg

Single filter, dual inlets though...... hmmmmm, which would be cleaner/sexier?

proz07

01-13-2010, 03:51 AM

WE3RX7

01-13-2010, 06:54 AM

That list and timeline should be no problem at all... :)

As for the air filter, with your fab skills, I think a single filter with a nice custom box around it would do nicely.

Pros:
1. Quicker replacement / cleaning
2. Easier to build box for it
3. Less "cluttered" engine bay
4. Less weight (you could potentially reduce the piping without affecting performance)

Cons:
1. Less surface area for filtration (correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like if you measured the two vs the one, two has more surface area)
2. Time... you only have 94 days :)
3. Single POF (point of failure)

Thats my two cents on it. If it were me, I'd probably keep the twin setup.... for now.

FC3S Murray

01-13-2010, 08:27 AM

djmtsu

01-13-2010, 10:41 AM

I have an aluminum air box for an FC that has a plexi layer on the inside. Fits right in the front corner. It was made by some guy on 7club. He made a bunch of them, but like most FC guys, they all bailed when it was time to pony up the cash.

I got lucky and snagged one up, but never got around to actually installing it. The only thing you need is a custom TID, which I never got around to fabbing....because I can't fab.

TitaniumTT

01-13-2010, 11:05 AM

tell me more of these ls2 coils or the bosch unit? why are you changing from the ls1 setup and what are you planning on it lighting off? im interested as i may be dumping my pfc for the AEM 1900u and i will need a bad ass ignition setup to fire anything from e85 to a couple hundred CC of water anything up to 25psi at least. these are rough estimates for me but again why have you decided on the new coil setup?

z

People have been touting the LS1 coils for a LONG time yet they only produce ~60mj. LS2 coils require less dwell time and pump out 125mj. I don't know about the Bosch coils. Still waiting that phonecall back. The reason for the swap is pure experiment. On the Dyno Dave and I would make small changes to the L and pick up BIG gains. There are two reasons for that. The coils aren't pumping out enough power to light the mix, or my engine is just very sensitive to AF's. It could honestly be either one, OR it could even be weak wires. Plan is to build new wires and get on the dyno with the new new injectors. Run her for a baseline then swap the wires. Run her again and see if there is any difference. Swap the coils and use the same brand wires and run her again see if there is a difference in power. Then sell whatever setup I choose as it would be an incredibly sexy, almost bolt on ignition system for anyone with a standalone.

That list and timeline should be no problem at all... :)

As for the air filter, with your fab skills, I think a single filter with a nice custom box around it would do nicely.

Pros:
1. Quicker replacement / cleaning
2. Easier to build box for it
3. Less "cluttered" engine bay
4. Less weight (you could potentially reduce the piping without affecting performance)

Cons:
1. Less surface area for filtration (correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like if you measured the two vs the one, two has more surface area)
2. Time... you only have 94 days :)
3. Single POF (point of failure)

Thats my two cents on it. If it were me, I'd probably keep the twin setup.... for now.

I think for the time being I'm going to keep the twin setup as I can run her just fine with it as is. If there's time, then I'll go and fab up the single setup as I agree, I think it would be a little neater. I'm not sure about a plexi top though, I think getting enough air in there would be a little difficult without cutting up the bulkhead. We'll see, I've got 94 days.

TitaniumTT

01-13-2010, 11:08 AM

I agree, with your fab skills Brian I think a single filter with a custom air box(maybe something like alum with a clear plexi top would be sex)! Check out the pic of this diesel SB intake set up...just imagine with alum box.

I have an aluminum air box for an FC that has a plexi layer on the inside. Fits right in the front corner. It was made by some guy on 7club. He made a bunch of them, but like most FC guys, they all bailed when it was time to pony up the cash.

I got lucky and snagged one up, but never got around to actually installing it. The only thing you need is a custom TID, which I never got around to fabbing....because I can't fab.

Thanks guys. I like the look of it, not sure how well it would fit in my bay though with the VMIC right there. I tried when I did the twin setup but it just looked odd.... I dunno, I dunno..... I like the theory alot, seems like it would be the way to go based on how many guys who have great looking cars are telling me to do it so it looks like I'll have to put it on the list :rofl:

Oh Bill, I never did measure the diameters, the filter area, etc etc... allthough I probably should....

helghast7

01-13-2010, 05:59 PM

Turbo II Rotor

01-13-2010, 06:15 PM

You're crazy, a good kind of crazy, but crazy nonetheless. Can't wait to see it on the dragon this year.

-Six-

01-13-2010, 07:13 PM

I say leave the filters alone, I like the look of the dual filters. Unless you see some sort of benefit functionally?

TitaniumTT

01-13-2010, 11:30 PM

looks like you have alot more on your plate then i do...at least today it was nice enough were i finally got that last shock in :) washing the engine bay tomorrow

i would love to see how the ignition system goes, if its usable for the pfc i would probably get whatever you end up making

Yeah, total dissasemble and reassemble in 94 days..... Like Dave said, I'm a sick individual.

The LSX coild should be useable with the PFC as they have thier own built in ignitors. We'll see though, I may not get any HP increase in which case I'll be selling my LS1 setup :suspect:

You're crazy, a good kind of crazy, but crazy nonetheless. Can't wait to see it on the dragon this year.

Me neither, I owe you a ride Scott. When are you planning on driving down? I wanna get a bitching caravan this year again.

TitaniumTT

01-13-2010, 11:31 PM

I say leave the filters alone, I like the look of the dual filters. Unless you see some sort of benefit functionally?

I don't think there will be a benefit, just might look a little cleaner is all. About the last thing on my list though. Not needed to make the trip.

helghast7

01-14-2010, 12:37 AM

well im not looking for any HP increase for the ignition system, just something more reliable then stock FD coils

MaczPayne

01-14-2010, 01:29 PM

I really worry about your health, Brian!

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 12:18 PM

well im not looking for any HP increase for the ignition system, just something more reliable then stock FD coils

Coils are definately reliable. Only problem is where I have them mounted. No AC or PS can be used, I've got them on a plate that mounts exactely where those guys once lived. You could relocate them though I suppose.

I really worry about your health, Brian!

:smilielol5: Yeah, well I just got word from Alex that if his car is painted and mechanically sound, he'll drive it down to DGRRX..... so that leaves 92 days (I think) to finish all the fab, all the paint, rebuild the LS, and assemble the car. Top that off with everything that's happening with my 7, well, yeah, I'm a little worried too at this point Johnson :smilielol5:

jtbshaw

01-15-2010, 12:27 PM

Brian,

If you haven't purchased the new S5 tank, there's another custom mod that you can do. I modified an aluminum 15 gallon drag race cell, with sump, to fit in my son's TII stock location. Still retains the stock fuel level sender and fill/vent location. I can still pull up to the pump and fill up as I normally would. I coated the bottom with a textured flat black and it is almost completely camo'd....with the exception of seeing the -AN fitting for my -10 and -8 lines. I am running an external A1000 pump so I ditched all the other. If you are interested, I can send you some info and pics.

Todd B.

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 01:39 PM

Yeah Todd, I'd love to see what you did! I looked and looked and couldn't find anything that would fit, most of what I found was plastic though, so there was no chance in it working. Whatever it is though, I need to figure it out PDQ, as I'm having hold ups with other things and haven't even touched the car yet when I was hoping to be spending an hour or so a night working on her..... 92 days?

jtbshaw

01-15-2010, 02:23 PM

Here you go my friend:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplayPopup?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&productId=749961&itemId=72986&langId=-1&showValue=1

That's the cell I used.

Here's what I did:

Cut the mounting tabs off.
Removed the filler cap assembly-then Tig welded a plate to cover the opening.
Cut off the right roll over vent tube fitting-plug welded that.
Traced out the stock TII fuel pump holder/pickup tube mounting plate in the left corner-then cut that out...which removed the other vent tube fitting.
Drilled holes for the stock unit to mount in there.
Over on the right side, I took a hole saw (I can't remember the correct size but one was around 2" and the other was around 3/4") and cut two holes...one for the filler, and one for the factory vent tube there-then welded in the correct size tubing which I also bead rolled.
Lastly, I welded two 1" square pieces of aluminum across the top as a spacer (because this cell was right at one inch shorter than the stock tank).

I also had to cut off one of my fuel outlets and replace with a -10 AN bung, because this cell comes with both outlets -8. I'm running a -10 supply with a -8 return. Once everything was welded and cooled down, I applied commercial grade rubber strips to the 1" square spacers, bolted the stock fuel pickup assembly down using self tapping zinc coated screw (removed the TII pump, but left the gauge sending unit...it's almost a perfect fit), painted the bottom crinkle flat black, and mounted it using the stock TII straps. Everything hookups stock and I can even use the vent tubes for the charcoal canister if I want to.

The only thing that you can see is my red/blue anadoized AN fittings. I even used the black braided fuel lines to further camo the setup. Mounted the pump in the spare tire well and ran it to my Mallory 4309 regulator inside the engine bay.

I don't have pictures on the PC. They are still on the digi cam. I'll upload them soon and shoot you over some pics if ya want. Does all that make sense?

Todd B.

Force13b

01-15-2010, 02:47 PM

Yeah, total dissasemble and reassemble in 94 days..... Like Dave said, I'm a sick individual.

The LSX coild should be useable with the PFC as they have thier own built in ignitors. We'll see though, I may not get any HP increase in which case I'll be selling my LS1 setup :suspect:

You can you LSX coils for a PFC but you're only going to get about 1/2 of the power out of them. The stock FD ignitor uses a falling edge signal from the ECU to trigger the coils, just like the signal that the LS coil needs. But because the PFC only drives the stock coils at 2.5 or so MS, you couldn't get anywhere near the full capability of the LS coils which can be driven at 5 MS. There's nowhere in the PowerFC to alter the charge time either...so you're stuck with low output.

Brian i just ordered a set of MSD Blaster coils 8245 they are just like the ls truck coils but more power.
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/100/121/121-8245.jpg

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 03:10 PM

Todd, you are a life saver and a curse at the same time ;) That's AWESOME!

Everything made perfect sense, I love it..... however.... you're giving me idea's that I don't need :smilielol5:

Now I'm thinking about buying that cell, doing everything that you did PLUS, cutting a piece out of the top to gain alot of access inside the thing and building an intank swirl tank. Something that I've always thought every turbo rotary owner should have.

My thoughts are to cut the top out and build a swirl tank, something on the order of a full gallon, just becuase, use the stock drop in supra TT pump that I have, TOTAL overkill but I own it and the stock fuel level sender. With the top cut out build a cup ala factory style that the pump will sit in. Retain the stock feed return lines as well as the sender.

The pump will pump fuel out of the Denso pump, and back into the cell where a line will feed directly into the swirl tank. Weld two -6AN bungs on either side as opposed to a bulkhead fitting, unless you think I've overkilling overkill already and plumb them into the swirl tank which will be welded in place. Run the overflow from the swirl tank parrellel with the feed line so it returns to the cup ala factory style.

-10 outlet on the swirl tank back through two welded -10 fittings (as opposed to a bulkhead fitting) to the outside of the tank where I can run my Bosch 044 pump. The return from the regulator will be run in parrellel with the feed and again through welded fittings on the side of the tank, through the tank to the swirl pot.

The end result will be just as kick ass as yours in that I can pull up to a gas station and fill up like any normal person which was my entire reason for NOT going with the fuel cell MONTHS ago.

One question for you though, how is your tank vented? Right now I converted the check valve and ran that to a sintered filter that I mounted directly above the filler cap. I was having problems with me cap not venting the pressure or vacuum that was being created. I ended up just doing what we always do in the marine world, I vented the bitch to atmosphere. I think I'll prob do that again, but run an anti-siphon loop (something overlooked in the marine world) and a roll-over check valve. So that if I DO fill the tank to the brim on a cold night, and let it sit on a hot day, the fuel will close off the vent valve and just build a bit of pressure until the cap releases some of it, and I don't have to worry about fuel spilling out of te vent line if I top her off and thrash on her immediately.

Anything else to consider? I would LOVE to see some pics. You set a high standard so i would love to see what you've got. Love the idea Todd, thanks much...... I think ;)

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 03:20 PM

You can you LSX coils for a PFC but you're only going to get about 1/2 of the power out of them. The stock FD ignitor uses a falling edge signal from the ECU to trigger the coils, just like the signal that the LS coil needs. But because the PFC only drives the stock coils at 2.5 or so MS, you couldn't get anywhere near the full capability of the LS coils which can be driven at 5 MS. There's nowhere in the PowerFC to alter the charge time either...so you're stuck with low output.

Brian i just ordered a set of MSD Blaster coils 8245 they are just like the ls truck coils but more power.
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/100/121/121-8245.jpg

Huh, I didn't know that about the PFC - lame. However, that's sorta the problem that I'm having with the LS1 coils that I have. The problem with the rotary is the incredibly short charge time that's allowed between spark events. I sat down with my engineering buddy/MoTeC guru and we came up with a dwell table that allows basically the most charge time, and it's not all that suitable for the LS1 coils. Becuase of the rev's the charge time is dropped to (I THINK) 3-4ms in the high load/high RPM sites. Again, NOT getting full charge time. We just had a chat and he rec'd some coils out of an LS7 (I've got the Delco number written down) that can fire happily ALLLLLLLLL day long @ 2ms charge and produce the same mJ and up to 20% more than the LS1 coil @ 5ms. And they bolt in..... sorta.

So my plan is to hit the dyno again in April, Dave and I will tune the car with the new injectors, new coils. Then swap coils and make another pull. Same dwell table, same conditions and see if there is a drop in power from the LS7 to the LS1 coils.

Then I'll swap in the LS1 specific table dwell table and make another run. Side by side comparisions and we'll know for sure if the LS1 coil is suitable or not when given the full charge time allowed by the rotaries "timing."

Again, this is on the MoTeC with retarded amounts of adjustability so I'll be able to get the most out of the coils.....(I can even bump the dwell time when the boost comes on :smilielol5: although right now it's just basic rpm vs dwell) just for fun if we remember though, we'll do a pull with the LS1 coils @ 2.5ms and the LS7 coils @ 2.5 ms (if they don't auto-discharge at that length) and see where we land. Ahhhhh, the beauty of dyno's..... I need to make a list.

End result will be dyno proven power gains from coil to coil at full allowed charge time and whether or not the LS1 coil is really suitable for a rotary. I tend to think, based on what Dave and I found on the Dyno, that the spark is a little weak, as you're pointing out Tyler, becusae we can only dwell the eff'er for 3-4 ms.

Tyler, just as an aside, when I first started this pj, I was warned AGAINST those coils by my MoTeC guru. He had a few engines pop on the engine dyno becusae of them. Now they may have changed some, and I know a few guys use them, but I would think twice about them. I would go with something else. I'm curious what the difference in mJ output to charge time is with those vs a stocker Denso D5whatever the LS1 is. Do you know? Are those the auto Multiple Spark they toyed around with years ago?

Force13b

01-15-2010, 04:42 PM

Huh, I didn't know that about the PFC - lame. However, that's sorta the problem that I'm having with the LS1 coils that I have. The problem with the rotary is the incredibly short charge time that's allowed between spark events. I sat down with my engineering buddy/MoTeC guru and we came up with a dwell table that allows basically the most charge time, and it's not all that suitable for the LS1 coils. Becuase of the rev's the charge time is dropped to (I THINK) 3-4ms in the high load/high RPM sites. Again, NOT getting full charge time. We just had a chat and he rec'd some coils out of an LS7 (I've got the Delco number written down) that can fire happily ALLLLLLLLL day long @ 2ms charge and produce the same mJ and up to 20% more than the LS1 coil @ 5ms. And they bolt in..... sorta.

So my plan is to hit the dyno again in April, Dave and I will tune the car with the new injectors, new coils. Then swap coils and make another pull. Same dwell table, same conditions and see if there is a drop in power from the LS7 to the LS1 coils.

Then I'll swap in the LS1 specific table dwell table and make another run. Side by side comparisions and we'll know for sure if the LS1 coil is suitable or not when given the full charge time allowed by the rotaries "timing."

Again, this is on the MoTeC with retarded amounts of adjustability so I'll be able to get the most out of the coils.....(I can even bump the dwell time when the boost comes on :smilielol5: although right now it's just basic rpm vs dwell) just for fun if we remember though, we'll do a pull with the LS1 coils @ 2.5ms and the LS7 coils @ 2.5 ms (if they don't auto-discharge at that length) and see where we land. Ahhhhh, the beauty of dyno's..... I need to make a list.

End result will be dyno proven power gains from coil to coil at full allowed charge time and whether or not the LS1 coil is really suitable for a rotary. I tend to think, based on what Dave and I found on the Dyno, that the spark is a little weak, as you're pointing out Tyler, becusae we can only dwell the eff'er for 3-4 ms.

Tyler, just as an aside, when I first started this pj, I was warned AGAINST those coils by my MoTeC guru. He had a few engines pop on the engine dyno becusae of them. Now they may have changed some, and I know a few guys use them, but I would think twice about them. I would go with something else. I'm curious what the difference in mJ output to charge time is with those vs a stocker Denso D5whatever the LS1 is. Do you know? Are those the auto Multiple Spark they toyed around with years ago?

I'm currently running the yukon/escalade coils but i got them off ebay and like most ebay shit 1 of them is crapping out, i've already fould 1 plug in a few 1k miles and i'm getting some break up underload.

I bought a coil setup off someone on the forum. MSD primary and yukon/escalde coils for secondary. I haven't ready anything about the msd's causing people to pop motors how would a coil cause that? Now you got me all parinoid :lol:

I was told the yukon/escalade coil was the 1 to get so i started there. I haven't heard anything bad about the MSD. I have talked to a couple guys running e85 and using the MSD coils and say they work great.

Only specs i have on the MSD coils
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b392/force13b/coil.jpg

jtbshaw

01-15-2010, 04:57 PM

No need for a swirl tank. I will be premixing with this TII, just as I have with all my other rotaries (22). With the A1000 and the return setup, there's plenty of mixing constantly going on when that big a$$ pump is running. The A1000 will not work, however, for your EFI setup, I don't believe. Unregulated, it will flow at 45psi, but once you add the drain of boost and RPMs, you won't have adequate flow pressure. You need to source a different pump.

Now, you do have the option of running an intank pump since you would install the factory mount back in there with my setup. Depending on your placement, you may have to modify the inside access hole for the cell. Plus, you would lose the benfit of having the sump of the cell. Just tossing out more ideas.

About the coils, I would second the MSDs, Brian. Well, that is unless you could find someone selling some left over LX92 Crane coils.

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 07:07 PM

Here's what I've found in a TON of research today on coils, I keep coming back to the Delco D585 - the Yukon LS2 coils WITH the heatsink. If it doesn't have the heat sink it's the D514A and should be tossed because of dwell time/saturation/auto-release crap. The other option is the D510C from the latest gen LS7 engines. I'm waiting on clarification on differences between the D510C and the D585 before I make an order.

Here's what I found.
If it ain't Delco/Denso, it's crap knockoffs - garbage.
The LSX guys don't like the MSD coils. They have longevity problems with them. They MAY be overdwelling them though, because they can. Afterall, MSD is short for My Spark Died. My guy was running 1000+hp methanol rotaries and it was the Multiple Spark that killed it. Swapped to a standard D580 (LS1 coil) and the problem was gone. Why, I dunno, just passing on information. Most of the dyno queens around here don't like them either, Dave hates them.

The FI LSX guys are using the D585 and making HUGE power with them.
My Motec guy just engine dyno'ed something like 850BHP on a frankenstiened N/A LSX motor using the D510C's. Those are the ones he rec'd to me before I told him about the D585's. He had indicated that the D510C's are a little more effiecient. I gave him some numbers on the D585's, and he's going to compare them to what he knows about the D510C's and we'll make a decision on what is the best coil to use. Anything above these coils and you're into CDI territory and that's something completely different..... and that I'm ot going to go through becuase of my harness. Honestly I wold like to see 0 gain on the dyno switching coils. If I pick up 20ft/lbs of torque, I'll be doing an M&W on the FD.

Some guy over on LS1Tech took his LS1 F-body to the dyno, ran it with LS1 coils, while the car was strapped down swapped to some D585 Coils and used LS7 wires and picked up 9hp and 18 ft/lbs :eek: That's pretty impressive from a coil on an N/A engine.

djmtsu

01-15-2010, 07:15 PM

Dammit, you guys have given me the bug to do something.

I am looking at getting new engine management, cooling, maybe an FMIC and doing some spot painting on the 'bad' parts for now.

Not trying to hijack, but you guys are smarter than I.

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 07:38 PM

Todd, I think you missunderstood what I meant - I'll be running a surge tank. Basically a reserve fuel source contained in a container that is always full. I've run my car on the track in n/a form and in long sweeping lefthanders, the fuel would slosh away from the pump. As soon as the pump goes dry, pressure goes to 0 PDQ. The theory behind the surge tank is to keep the fuel contained so that it won't slosh away. The surge tank feeds directly to a larger pressure pump so that if the intank pump goes dry for a second, there is still a reserve of fuel in the surge tank to feed the larger pump. The intank pump and the return lines are fed into the surge tank to keep it as full as possible for as long as possible, and then the overflow from the surge tank is plumbed back into the fuel tank.

Here's a pic as provided by MoTeC.. well they had one
here's a few that I found
http://sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm
http://www.ratdat.com/?p=168
showing the basica plumbing of it all. I actually built a surge tank that mounted to my rear strut bar. But quickly realized that it ws a plumbing NIGHTMARE and to top it off the noise from an external pump in the car would've SUCKED.

As for the pump..... I have a Bosch 044 pump, that that thing is LOUD. If I mount it in the tank and isolate it well, it MAY be liveable. I dunno, who makes the quitest most reliable external pump?

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 07:47 PM

Hmmmmmmmm, maybe the thing to do is weld a surge tank to the inside top of the tank so I can use a drop in In-Tank pump, like my supra pump, as opposed to an external Bosch pump. Ala ATL's black Box...... Bosch pumps are LOUD! Todd, what have you done!!! :rofl:

Scott, do you have you're setup running yet? I wanna hear these pumps of yours and see if it was the metal to metal mounting on mine or what.

Force13b

01-15-2010, 07:49 PM

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 08:05 PM

My5ABaby

01-15-2010, 08:12 PM

Nice list. My first comment regards the paint. Prep is far more important than the actual products use as LSPs. Getting your finish perfect counts is 90% of the look. The LSPs are the other 10%. Second, you're a workaholic aren't you? :D

TitaniumTT

01-15-2010, 11:49 PM

LSP's?

I'm not a workaholic, I just don't require sleep and I like impossible deadlines that require 44.5hrs straight work only for the stories and bragging rights.

Turbo II Rotor

01-15-2010, 11:51 PM

Scott, do you have you're setup running yet? I wanna hear these pumps of yours and see if it was the metal to metal mounting on mine or what.

Me neither, I owe you a ride Scott. When are you planning on driving down? I wanna get a bitching caravan this year again.

I have no idea when I'm going down. I'll be taking a nice long car drive with Nate out to PA tomorrow to look at an FC I think my be flooded so I'll have plenty of time to get our heads together for this year. You are leaving Thursday morning correct? You doing the cabin dealy again? Let me know if it's still possible to get in on that as I'd jump on it in an instant.

Car is not running but I fully expect to beast it out and drive it down to DGRR. I got way too caught up in saving all my earnings so I will have that 20% down payment for a house. Kinda reassessed my life a little bit prioritized my wants and needs. Just started grabbing up overtime at work since it's easy money and signed up for 2 college classes in micro and macro economics so that will cut into my car building time but I got 3 months and there should be no reason it for it not to be driveable by then.

My pumps will be double insulated with sheet rubber and soft mounted to the chassis which I'm hoping will quiet them down. I also built a way over kill surge tank that will probably end up in the hatch. Hopefully soon we'll see how loud these things purr.

TitaniumTT

01-16-2010, 12:13 AM

As far as I know I'm heading down Thurs morning and MAY run the whole way down that night, depends on when Phil needs me @ the damn.

Good for yo picking up the OT and stashing some cash. That was pretty much me over the summer. Lemme know if you have any questions with the econ, I has a degree in that :D Person to talk to about the cabin in Tray. As far as I know he's reserved it and needs coin, which reminds me, I need to shoot him some cash.

I'm curious as to how loud those dual 044's will be. I just rechecked the specs on my Denso pump, it's supposed to be good for 260lph @ 58psi. Figure I'm in need of 4000cc injectors @ 90% (overkill) is 216 lph or 83%..... the pump should be more than enough, just gotta think about this whole intank surge tank. Looked at the 20gal Jegs cell and I think that might actually fit as well..... just invert a corner for the fill and vent tubes..... although with all the shit going on inside, it may be easier to build one from scratch... I gotta see some pics from Todd and do some measuring.... ugh, I gotta get my car stripped like now.

What are your preliminary plans for the trip down?

Force13b

01-16-2010, 12:18 AM

What are you running for wires, and plugs in the Trailing? What's your timing and A/F's @ while cruising and full load? Have you measured resistance on the wire? Dwell time?

The D580 is exactely what I have, except no chinese crap. Do they say Denso on them? Becuase I've seen Denso coils come out of a box not saying Denso on them, and there are a few co's out there making knock-offs and I KNOW they don't make the same spark.

MSD cut to fit wires. BUR9EQP. Crusing A/F are in the 13's at wot 10.5-11, here's a data log of my timing (street tune it's not going on a dyno tell i get my fuel system and meth in) I haven't check the wire reistance in the wires they are very well made the only thing i skimped on was the coils and it feels very much so like when a coil went out in my friends 1jz sc300.

I'll bet that's what it is, i did get them for 29$ per coil :lol:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b392/force13b/timing.jpg
I'm having some boost issues hence the on and off throtle

My5ABaby

01-16-2010, 02:11 AM

LSP's?

I'm not a workaholic, I just don't require sleep and I like impossible deadlines that require 44.5hrs straight work only for the stories and bragging rights.

Last Step Products. Basically sealants, waxes, and glazes.

helghast7

01-16-2010, 09:53 AM

i think i may try out the yukon ls2 coils if time permits, it seems that the majority of the rx8 guys are going with them and have had no problems so far, though there ignition system is a little different i dont see why they wouldnt work

well see how things go in the coming months....well weeks i guess

TitaniumTT

01-16-2010, 10:54 AM

MSD cut to fit wires. BUR9EQP. Crusing A/F are in the 13's at wot 10.5-11, here's a data log of my timing (street tune it's not going on a dyno tell i get my fuel system and meth in) I haven't check the wire reistance in the wires they are very well made the only thing i skimped on was the coils and it feels very much so like when a coil went out in my friends 1jz sc300.

I'll bet that's what it is, i did get them for 29$ per coil :lol:

Do you have a few pics of them by chance? Do they have a heatsink on them? The L are a way rich for me. I started getting MUCH better response way less fouling the closer I got to 11.7 or .8L.

One BIG thing about the LSx coils is that they LOVE good clean "power" As in they need to see 13.5+ volts. I've heard this from alot of different people.

I would check the resistance of the wire, and what's the dwell time? Timing looks pretty spot on, mine doesn't go that far advcanced under cruise though

I did a few more hours of research last night when i couldn't sleep. Found a few more dyno sheets on LS1tech of guys that did back to back dyno runs of D580 vs D585 coils and alot of them picked up considerable gains.

Again though, all the LSX guys say run and hide from the MSD coils. They may not be adjusting the dwell though and I doubt they have the equipment to test them and are adjusting the dwell properly. From what I read last night from people actually testing the LSX coils, dwell above 5ms doesn't gain you anything. The D580 coils like to be dwelled for at least 3-4 ms, and the D585 coils can be dwelled less, and produce more energy.

I bet you got some knockoff junk. There are a few companies building replacement coils, and the replacements never perform as well as the OEM Denso's. I'm willing to bet you got a knockoff. All the D585 coils I see, Denso's, are selling for $64-$70.... soo you may have a knockoff that's just not pumping out the current. The way I see it, the plugs will foul as a result of the tuning. Nothing to do with the coil. However, more voltage from a better coil will acr a fouled plug.

TitaniumTT

01-16-2010, 10:59 AM

Last Step Products. Basically sealants, waxes, and glazes.

Ah, gotcha, for last years DGRR I didn't even have time for those LSP's :rofl: I stopped at one of those drivethrough do-it-yourself car washes a few miles out.

i think i may try out the yukon ls2 coils if time permits, it seems that the majority of the rx8 guys are going with them and have had no problems so far, though there ignition system is a little different i dont see why they wouldnt work

well see how things go in the coming months....well weeks i guess

The RX8 guys also for the most part aren't boosted either and they have MUCH cleaner L to work with than us boosted 13B guys.

When I first started this PJ YEARS ago I was given conflicting information. One engineer said go with the RX8 coils and forget the D580 coils as he's had nothing but problems, the other said rock the D580's, he's made some CRAZY hp numbers with them. Now thier both saying D585's :smilielol5: Still waiting to hear back on the difference between the D510c and the D585. Neither are plug and play from what I've seen, I would need to swap out the connector at the coil on the harness, and build new wires. So it looks like I'll be making 4 little harness adapters that I can plug into the harness and run to the D580 coils for the dyno test.... aight, I gotta get some work done to the rig today, the list keeps getting longer and the time shorter.... this is bad.

Force13b

01-16-2010, 11:30 AM

Do you have a few pics of them by chance? Do they have a heatsink on them? The L are a way rich for me. I started getting MUCH better response way less fouling the closer I got to 11.7 or .8L.

One BIG thing about the LSx coils is that they LOVE good clean "power" As in they need to see 13.5+ volts. I've heard this from alot of different people.

I would check the resistance of the wire, and what's the dwell time? Timing looks pretty spot on, mine doesn't go that far advcanced under cruise though

I did a few more hours of research last night when i couldn't sleep. Found a few more dyno sheets on LS1tech of guys that did back to back dyno runs of D580 vs D585 coils and alot of them picked up considerable gains.

Again though, all the LSX guys say run and hide from the MSD coils. They may not be adjusting the dwell though and I doubt they have the equipment to test them and are adjusting the dwell properly. From what I read last night from people actually testing the LSX coils, dwell above 5ms doesn't gain you anything. The D580 coils like to be dwelled for at least 3-4 ms, and the D585 coils can be dwelled less, and produce more energy.

I bet you got some knockoff junk. There are a few companies building replacement coils, and the replacements never perform as well as the OEM Denso's. I'm willing to bet you got a knockoff. All the D585 coils I see, Denso's, are selling for $64-$70.... soo you may have a knockoff that's just not pumping out the current. The way I see it, the plugs will foul as a result of the tuning. Nothing to do with the coil. However, more voltage from a better coil will acr a fouled plug.

Yeah it was a basic street tune since i had a fuel system on order when we put the haltech in the car. I'll be working on getting my 850's and 1600's in this weekend and working on getting my 5gallone fuel cell in and running my lines for meth.

Yeah i checked the coils last night they say denso but the logo doesn't look the same as the one i was comparing it to on the internet. thank you ebay whatever we'll see how the new coil setup works.

I got to say brian i love your threads always very informative. I'm excited to see some of the creations you come up with for the FD, give me ideas to spend more money.

TitaniumTT

01-16-2010, 08:15 PM

Yeah it was a basic street tune since i had a fuel system on order when we put the haltech in the car. I'll be working on getting my 850's and 1600's in this weekend and working on getting my 5gallone fuel cell in and running my lines for meth.

Yeah i checked the coils last night they say denso but the logo doesn't look the same as the one i was comparing it to on the internet. thank you ebay whatever we'll see how the new coil setup works.

I got to say brian i love your threads always very informative. I'm excited to see some of the creations you come up with for the FD, give me ideas to spend more money.

Gotcha Tyler.... I would be leary of the MSD coils. I would go so far as to call them to see what they rec for dwell times and never go beyond that. I would even back off the dwell wherever you can just to prolong the life of them.

Thanks for the compliments Tyler. Whatever I come up with for the FD is going to be jigged so that it can be duplicated. Just about every brace you can imagine, plus I'm sure a bunch of other custom goodies.

helghast7

01-16-2010, 09:23 PM

oh btw, a company does it for the rx8, my friend just bought it and we installed them, they pretty much just add a stubby jumper wire from the coil to the harness

and hell no i would never go with the rx8 coils, everyone ive talked to said they replace coils like every 15k or less, that rediculous when you consider my FC has 200k miles on it and i still have the factory coils running strong

besides that, bangkok with the red turbo rx8 is rocking the yukon coils and i believe hes loving them, its certainly worth trying out im my opinion, after deals ill probably experiment with them...to much on my plate right now :(

TitaniumTT

01-16-2010, 10:51 PM

Bangkok's was running clean that day, nice idle etc etc.... We'll see, still waiting to hear back from my MoTeC guru about whether I should go with the D510C's or the D585's. You won't have to worry about experimenting after the Gap, I'll have dyno results to prove which coils the better to go with. It's just mounting and wiring them sexy is the key.

BTW - was trudging through the Auto-x clubs pics and came across these

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2515/4088771490_c9a3c6fb65.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2442/4048640132_d0b89145f5.jpg

WE3RX7

01-16-2010, 11:01 PM

Good pics! Nobody at our autox seems to get good shots... including me! My first race is next weekend already, time flies.....

helghast7

01-16-2010, 11:44 PM

damn lol, is there anything you wont test? lol

have to start calling you the chosen one lol

here to save us from all our stereo typical rotary problems

first coils, then well never blow an engine again!

TitaniumTT

01-17-2010, 12:05 PM

damn lol, is there anything you wont test? lol

No :smilielol5:

[QUOTE=helghast7;107228]have to start calling you the chosen one lol

hmmmmm, I like that.

Got an email from my guru buddy, here's what he has to say

D510 is documented as being able to get more done with less dwell time. D585 if it auto discharges will discharge with the timing wildly advanced.. Your engine your call there. If the engine cranks too slow get a better starter / battery / cables... Heat sinks do work in both directs they give off and absorb heat so a coil heater as well as cooler. Unless you move the coils the wires should be the same. I will have to look at my LSX notes to get the pin out.

Looks like I'll be going with the D510C's. In speaking with a few other people, they say that the D585's will not auto discharge, but I'm not going to take that chance. The other person that I spoke with inside MoTeC gave me a marking on the coil to aviod because of the auto-discharge, I believe it to be the D514's. Either way, the key is the documented more effiecient windings in the D510C's off the newest LS7 which is what I'll be going with.

I wonder how many people running Haltechs with mysterious ignition fires are suffering from autodischarge from over dwelling subpar coils.........

TitaniumTT

01-17-2010, 12:07 PM

Good pics! Nobody at our autox seems to get good shots... including me! My first race is next weekend already, time flies.....

First race? Damn I hate you so much right now ;)

helghast7

01-17-2010, 09:30 PM

Just want to give Brian and Alex a huge thanks,

got back earlier today from CT to get my ppf repaired, they did an amazing job on it, and i can honestly say that that roaches and my ppf will be the only things left around if a nuclear war occured :)

and btw, Brians welding shits on the factory

TitaniumTT

01-23-2010, 12:26 AM

:) Thanks much Dave, Glad you're happy with it. Let us know when you're ready for those RX8 seats.

Aight guys, been a week, I've been busy/slacking a little and surprise surprise, I'm behind schedual already, I think I'm up to about #5 so far. Wash, wax, found the draw, pulled the engine, fit the supersecret trans and dropped some parts off for some machining. Here are the pics, if ANYONE recognizes this trans - SHEDAP!

A shot looking from the drivers side underneath, look how damn close the mounts are.... physced, no need to fab a second set of mounts on the chassis to mount this trans. Build a mount and I can swap between the Type R and this new 6spd... WOOT!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7205&stc=1&d=1264223800

Shows how damn close it is to the original shift hole. The trans does need to go a weeeeeee bit higher so it looks like I finally get to take my Plasma cutter to the chassis..... oh joy :reddevil:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7206&stc=1&d=1264223800

From behind :smilielol5:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7207&stc=1&d=1264223800

And here she is on the getting ready to head over to the stand for a few months worth of storage:icon_tdown: I miss driving her already

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7208&stc=1&d=1264223800

and backed outside so I can douche out the shop pretty hardcore tomorrow. Pulling engines is brutal for floors.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7209&stc=1&d=1264223800

So no it's time to strip her down completely and start building that new fuel tank, then up on the rotisserie for that undercarriage chemotherapy. Hopefully I be balls deep into that by the end of the week

helghast7

01-23-2010, 01:55 AM

nice dude nice, speaking of seats i just picked them up today, so when im ready to come down there coming with me :)

no go for this weekend though, picking up my engine tomorrow :D

so psyched!!

jtbshaw

01-23-2010, 11:02 AM

WE3RX7

01-23-2010, 03:15 PM

Its nice to know everybody slacks off once and a while :)

trans looked like it worked out really well so far, good luck on the final bits!

FC3S Murray

01-23-2010, 03:38 PM

You are a busy man Brian BUT THAT FUCKING TRANNY WILL BE AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TitaniumTT

01-23-2010, 09:55 PM

nice dude nice, speaking of seats i just picked them up today, so when im ready to come down there coming with me :)

no go for this weekend though, picking up my engine tomorrow :D

so psyched!!

Sweet!!!! Do you still need the flange??? Or are you going to drop the engine in and fit the intercooler piping and make a mark for the flange before you bring everything?

TitaniumTT

01-23-2010, 10:15 PM

You decide to do the fuel cell idea, Brian? Or something else?

Pic?...here's what the tank looked like when I finished it (for my son's TII):

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e108/jtbshaw/100_5352.jpg

WOW!!!!!!! I love it! Thanks for the pic Todd. Alex actually reclaimed his tanks and diff today so I took a BUNCH of measurements and yeah, I decided I'm going to do it. I'm going to take a slightly different approach than you did though, I'm going to build it from scratch out of some .125" AL, haven't decided on 5052 or 6061 yet, gotta see if the supplier can brake .125" 6061, but prob not recommended. 5052 always bends easy.

I'm not entirely sure on the dimensions as of yet, but it looks like it will be about 20gals, and will have a built in surge tank, 3-4 qts, with a drop in Bosch 044.... yeah, I'm going to try it again and try to quite it down a bit. If it's too loud, I'm going to have the Cosmo pump flowed and make sure that it's up to snuff so if it is too loud, I'll use the Cosmo pump as the lift, and the supra tt pump as the pressure pump.

So no sump, no external fittings, no external pump but a maze of hoses running back and forth. I'll use the stock level sender, and I'll build a sump cup for that as well.

I am going to use your idea for the 1" square tubing and rubber to isolate it and of course the idea for the fill and vent tubes... I LOVE that.

Probably build a few gusseted mounts and use the straps as well. Prob have to build my own straps though. More than likely I'll have to box in the recess for the vent and fill as well as the lift pump/sender.

I do have a question for you though Todd. Would you use the stock vent again as you did, or should I buy a roll-over valve and mount that?

Thanks much for the pic Todd, I really appreciate it.

TitaniumTT

01-23-2010, 10:33 PM

Its nice to know everybody slacks off once and a while :)

trans looked like it worked out really well so far, good luck on the final bits!

Yeah but you've been on it for 7 years now! I took a few days ;)

No to mention today I got the entire shop cleaned SPOTLESS, got the girl in and up on stands, got the entire rear suspension striped out as well as the tanks and a few other things as well.... next is to mock up this bitchin' cell then everything can get striped out.

So far so good, my machinist has the housings and he says about a week. He's got a few race engines that need to get gone before he can start on this abortion of a trans project. Then it still needs to be cryo'ed, etc etc. Hopefully Dave can turn that around quick so I can get the tunnel cut and move onto the hurculiner and the lizard skin.

You are a busy man Brian BUT THAT FUCKING TRANNY WILL BE AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:D I hope so! The ratios on the stocker TII BLOW! So this should be a drastic improvement.

jtbshaw

01-24-2010, 12:46 AM

TitaniumTT

01-24-2010, 02:12 AM

First thing, there's no way that I would waste the time in trying the brake 6061. Even if it worked (visibly), the composition of 6061 is so rigid that I would constantly be concerned with cracks appearing. 5000 series is an improvement for what you are doing, but I would recommend a 4000 series.

I figured that the 6061 would be a little too rigid to brake, especially the size that I'm looking to do, isn't it something like 30-50% the tensile strength of 5052?

As for the straps, with the height measurement of mine, it worked perfectly to use the stock straps in their stock location.

I'd love to use the stock straps if I could, or at least the stock mounting locations. I think my problem is going to be the Bosch fuel pump though, the thing is tall! And then there are the fittings on top as well. I suppose I could go with some 90* bulkhead connectors to keep things a little tighter but I've never been a fan of the sharp 90*s but it's far enough downstream that it should work just fine.

As for the vents....I just kept everything simple....that's pretty much how I have built this entire car I simply used the stock vent system to cut down on more fab work or more time invested. The roll over valves are much more safe, but I am keeping the dual exhaust and didn't like my vent tube to be so close...that's why I removed and sealed that area, and kept the stock vent. I think you should just evaluate your usage for the car, your vents, your exhaust, etc... and see if you feel comfortable with it. the way I have mine now, all I have to do is just connect it to the charcoal cannister and I'm done.

Well, the way I have it set up now, or had it set up before Alex took his tank back :rofl: was the stock vent reoriented to discharge on the same axis as the fill/vent tubes. It ran over the top of the tank and went from the 1/4" rubber to a -4 and then followed them up to the fuel door. There in the recess I drilled through and put a -4male to female 1/8" npt with a little stainless sintered filter. So I'm comfortable with the routing of the line as it runs exactely the same way as the factory did. It's well shielded from the exhaust as well. The one thing that worries me about the rollover valve is whether or not it will allow fuel through it if it's sloshing around. Even if it does, it's all downhill from the vent so it'll eventually make it into the tank again.

Charcoal Canister??!??@?!??!? What's that ;)

except my ignition...that's my biggest PITA right now...converting a CAS car back to a distributor and going DLIDFIS.

Maybe, but that's pretty bad ass in itself

jtbshaw

01-24-2010, 09:38 AM

The roll over vents, at least on my cell and the others that I have used from Jegs, do allow leakage from sloshing. They all have had -8AN male fittings to route the leakage away from the cell, but I never did like that they leaked from sloshing.

You are correct in the increased rigidity of the 6061....I was actually thinking it is right at 40% increase over the 5000 series.

On the fittings, maybe you could come out of the very top of the side so that you wouldn't have to go quite so tall???? Just a thought.

Thanks for the props on the ignition. I have all the parts, but just haven't wrapped my head around the whole thing yet. My concerns all involve the ECU that I have completely removed, along with the engine wiring harness. I'll hit you with a PM and get your thoughts on what I have in my head as to what will work with my blow through setup.

TitaniumTT

01-24-2010, 10:11 AM

I did manage to find a -6 roll-over vent, and I'm thinking that it's going to go dead center towards the rear in the tank so it's under the least amount a pressure and will let the least amount of fuel out from sloshing. Then it would have to travel through 4ish feet of -6 line and up 10ish inches before it manages to get out of the vent. Same setup as the stocker tank with the stock vent, and I never had any fuel escape that way. We'll try it and see what happens. I agree 100% though Todd, I'm not liking that it will allow fuel out from sloshing.

The intank surge tank idea is what's really killing the height. I'm going to have the material bent into an L, twice so one piece will be a top and a side, and another will be a bottom and a side. I'll cut a circle into the top and drop a cylinder down into it and weld a flange on the inside. Then continue the cylinder down to the floor of the tank. That will be the surge tank. The Bosch will just drop in and bolt to the internal flange. Before I weld the sides on, I'll have some L channel to weld to the surge tank and to the floor to really keep the whole damn thing in place.

If I were to put the fittings onthe side of the surge tank, internally, I think it would be very difficult to get both the pumps in and out. If they are on the top, I can just undue the hoses, unbolt the cartridge and pull the entire assembly out. I can use some 90* bulkhead connectors for almost all of them accept the vent, that needs to be a welded bung and a 90* fitting otherwise the fitting dropping down into the surge tank won't allow all of the air to be evacuated from the surge tank.

My REAL problem is the connectors that I've been able to find. I have not been able to source a sealed bulkhead connector rated for fuel that connects on a 90* angle. If I could find that I'd be able to drop the height down considerably. The connector that I have from Fuel Safe requires ~2-2.5" of clearance above it. That's what's really killing me.

Let me know how I can help Todd, I'll be more than happy to. The whole blow-through, dizzy setup sounds really badass, and really simple. Even the theme that you told me about sounds great.

jtbshaw

01-24-2010, 04:55 PM

I thought that I remember Jeg's having those fittings. They don't list everything that they have on their site or in their catalogs. It might be well worth a phone call to one of their reps and they can guide you to a part #...look at it online and see if that is what you are needing. If not, call Russ at Power and Rubber in Alabaster, AL (tell him Todd @ No Limit told you to call) and see if he can help. You may even have to send him a sketch but he will do everything he can to help find the fittings you need, then he can ship them to you. He can be reached at 205-210-2101.

Hope that helps a brotha out.

I'll shoot a PM over the next few days. I have compny from out of town, plus the car isn't even here yet...still in Alabama.

helghast7

01-24-2010, 05:15 PM

Max777

01-24-2010, 09:25 PM

Why not just bend the aluminum into 2 a U shape? Meaning 2 walls and a floor, then weld up the two other walls, and bolt down the top?

[_] = this shape with little sections on the top... then you can have the top be riveted or bolted, and removable like in some fuel cells if you want to redo something, w/o the risk of cutting it back open.

TitaniumTT

01-24-2010, 11:50 PM

TitaniumTT

01-24-2010, 11:59 PM

yea im probably going to drop the drivetrain in, fit the kit and drop off everything at once

and now that i was thinking about it, i need some advice and a price on a custom battery tray..more talk in the PM

Definately, plus I know of a few people that sell them, then it's a matter of welding or bolting something in.

Why not just bend the aluminum into 2 a U shape? Meaning 2 walls and a floor, then weld up the two other walls, and bolt down the top?

[_] = this shape with little sections on the top... then you can have the top be riveted or bolted, and removable like in some fuel cells if you want to redo something, w/o the risk of cutting it back open.

Then you're talking about sealing a surface that if stretched out would be over 9' long. Thats alot fo gasket material, potential for leaks etc etc, not to mention it would need to be thru-bolted so you'd have to stud it which means 9' more of welding.

Once I get all the measurements figured out and start building the thing, there won't be a need to ever go back into the tank. If the Bosch pump fits, the Denso certianly will. Thats about the only thing I would ever change, except I MIGHT have to go to a Wema sender as opposed to the stocker, which blows, becuase the stocker is the best sender I have ever used and I spent $87 on one less than a year ago.:banghead: Oh well, Alex will get some good use out of it I suppose.... no he won't, he's using an S5 dash, and I believe the resistance is different... regardless, I think the fuel cells that you are referring to anyway house an internal bladder and the top is just that, a top for a cell where no fuel is ever in contact with it.

I drew up a pic of it, I'll snap a pic of the pic and post it up tomorrow.... err later today.

TitaniumTT

02-07-2010, 09:50 PM

Alright, time for an update and because of the timing, they'll be coming ALOT more frequently.

I've got a few leads on the hardware that I need for the traction control, and I went and picked up the TCMux from my MoTeC dealer. Tomorrow I'm ordering the DMC-D's that I'll need to go from the Mag signal that the factory sensors puts out to the Hall Effect signal that the MoTeC needs to see. Also got some 20ga shielded Tefzel wire on order and I finally broke down and bought the $320 crimper that they need, and I figure while I'm at it I upgraded my other crimpers as well because we're gonna offer some sick wiring solutions :D

Also managed to get the rest of the body stripped and last night we finally got her up on the rotisserie.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7305&stc=1&d=1265597494

Already proped her to the side fo I can start the cleaning.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7306&stc=1&d=1265597494

When I did start cleaning, I found that I opened up a can of fricken worms! I started with a wire brush and this was somewhat solid and not all the way through yet. Found a few of them actually, not pleased at all.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7307&stc=1&d=1265597494

This is why we do NOT JACK FROM THE FUCKING PINCH WELDS!!!! The one on the other side is worse, but it was too high for me to get a pic

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7308&stc=1&d=1265597494

Don't know what caused the paint to fail here, but at least it's an easy fix

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7309&stc=1&d=1265597494

TitaniumTT

02-07-2010, 10:07 PM

Also managed to get the tranny tunnel trimmed before I dropped the tranny off with Dave to get the thing cryo'ed and resynced.... this tranny is gonna kick ass.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7310&stc=1&d=1265598395

Few more shots of the insanity.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7311&stc=1&d=1265598395

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7312&stc=1&d=1265598395

I gotta get this thing repaired and undercoated so I can get this girl the right side up. This is fucked up, just so unatural but man oh man is she easy to work on now

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7313&stc=1&d=1265598395

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7314&stc=1&d=1265598395

TitaniumTT

02-07-2010, 10:12 PM

Fuel Cell update - Got all the material bent up that I need and picked it all up. All I'm waiting on are the MilSpec connectors and the 7" Diameter tube that I had to order. When all is said and done it'll be a 17 gallon fuel tank with a built in 5 quart surge tank. Also got a new mount for the Bosch pump and I have a way to wire and plumb it that will hopefully make the thing MUCH more quite. Ludwig told me that he's running one in the tank and all you hear is a little hmmmmmm, I can live with that so I'm glad I didn't sell it like I was originally going to do. I'll get some pics of that progress when I get pissed off at all the holes in my undercarriage :smilielol5:

Nismo

02-07-2010, 10:26 PM

I'll get some pics of that progress when I get pissed off at all the holes in my undercarriage :smilielol5:

You sound like a 50yo woman!
Even my new car I thought was rust free has a small hole, and the pinch welds all fucked up :( fucking people are retarded.

TitaniumTT

02-07-2010, 10:37 PM

People are fucking retarded. All four corners.... SHAME!!! I'll post pics of all the rot and the repairs. I've got some cool ideas for jack points.

helghast7

02-08-2010, 01:27 AM

dude...thats crazy!!!

need RX7

02-08-2010, 03:31 AM

Holy crap! I can't believe that's the same car :lol:. How big is the pile o' parts after it's all stripped like that?

TitaniumTT

02-08-2010, 08:31 AM

dude...thats crazy!!!

Yeah it is. FD will be in that same position in a few months too :D

Holy crap! I can't believe that's the same car :lol:. How big is the pile o' parts after it's all stripped like that?

It's insane. I've got all the body parts out in Le Annex part duex (doors, fenders, bumers, fenders, hood, rear glass) the entire interior took up a decent size spare bedroom, the electronics are in a draw in my closet, and all the mechanical/underhood parts are in the basement. Took up 3 big selves, a desk, and a good bit of floor space.

I still need to strip out the harnesses. Sadly though I think it'll have to happen before I start the welding. Would suck to burn a harness that way. Luckily though as soon as the underside is done, the harness work is next, then the interior gets Lizard Skinned.

WE3RX7

02-08-2010, 10:09 AM

I really, really hate you :)

My undercoating takes SOOO much longer since I'm on my back, lol! I got sidetracked into another small project on my FC so the rest of my undercoating is being held off a bit for now, but should resume shortly.

You should be able to knock out the herculiner in a day no problem with that setup... although, your undercarriage appears in worse shape then mine... I only needed minor repairs thus far... good luck man...

TitaniumTT

02-08-2010, 12:46 PM

Knocking out the liner with the car like that will take no time at all. It's the repairs that are going to screw me. I've got four areas that I would consider in need of major repair, and who knows how many smaller areas. I'm going to run out of gas for sure.

The real shitty part, and here's murphy for you. When the car was on jackstands i was thinking to myself, 'fuck it, I'll wait till she's back on stands before I strip the wiring harnesses out, I'm not doing any welding where the harness's are near' :wallbash: Now I need to flip her again, prop her upright and strip the harnesses with the car much higher than where I would want her to be. Oh well, lesson learned......... again.

What's your side project?

WE3RX7

02-08-2010, 01:56 PM

I'm knocking out a portion of my brake upgrade right now...

Force13b

02-08-2010, 04:28 PM

I wish i could do that to my FD. Hopefully sometime down the road.

helghast7

02-08-2010, 06:41 PM

will probably bring the seats, the following weekend if you have time for them

engine should go back in sometime this week/end so i can mock up the intercooler kit right after that and figure out where i want the flange and then i drop everything off

i guess the first stop she takes after i get her running is to your place so i can get the reasonator welded in..dont really want to drive her long on the cat because i know shes gonna clog it up real quick and cause all sorts of problems...course....i could just be stupid and run it open DP to your place :)

cops would love me. ;)

on second thought i better not after all the crap i just went through this weekend...that was some scary shit man!!

TitaniumTT

02-08-2010, 07:01 PM

I'm knocking out a portion of my brake upgrade right now...

Nice! I'm gonna have to pick your brain on that at Deals. I'm putting mine off for a while as I'm spending too much coin on other things. Traction control, fuel and spark is getting more expensive than originally anticipated.

I wish i could do that to my FD. Hopefully sometime down the road.

Definately worth doing. I wish I had the means 7 years ago when I first painted the car. Oh well, as soon as I determine that there is nothing else needed to be welded to the chassis of the FD, she's going up on the same rotisserie to make sure the undercarriage is 100% and getting re-undercoated. Nice to know that everything is squared away before the pretty paint goes down. My biggest concern is that I'll damage the paint :leaving:

TitaniumTT

02-08-2010, 07:06 PM

will probably bring the seats, the following weekend if you have time for them

We should be good. You thinking the 21stish? Are you planning on dropping everything off or hanging out while we do what we gotta do?

engine should go back in sometime this week/end so i can mock up the intercooler kit right after that and figure out where i want the flange and then i drop everything off

Cool! So you're gonna bring that with the seats?

i guess the first stop she takes after i get her running is to your place so i can get the reasonator welded in..dont really want to drive her long on the cat because i know shes gonna clog it up real quick and cause all sorts of problems...course....i could just be stupid and run it open DP to your place :)

cops would love me. ;)

I like it. The cops in Stamford have much better things to do than actually bother people. I jumped a curb, up on the sidewalk, around a few cars, and blew through a light turning right before I saw the cop staring right at me, didn't even flinch. Frankly, the louder the better, especially if you can come after 7:30, that's when my neighbor goes to sleep :rofl:

on second thought i better not after all the crap i just went through this weekend...that was some scary shit man!!

What happened man?!?!?!

helghast7

02-08-2010, 09:08 PM

yea im gona bring the seats and the pipe at the same time...seats ill leave till there ready..the pipe ill probably wait for since im going to need that to finish the engine bay...and it has to get painted and what not :)

we still need to figure out what to do about those pesky seatbelts..grrrr lol

oh yea, had an amazing weekend :(
come home from work saturday to find i magically have 8 points on my license:

apparently whatever company my insurance used to do there annual check up had false information claiming that i had 8 points because of 2 tickets i got

the truth of the matter was those 2 tickets i had brought down to those tickets you get that are no points but you pay out the ass for(i call them get out of jail free cards lol)

what was worse though was apparently the company cant even count because even if the DMV did mess up the 2 tickets still wouldnt add up to 8 points, one was a 5 over speeding ticket(2 pts) the other was a failure to obey traffic signals(2 pts)....so...yea

the real kicker.....because of the false info, my insurance company jacked up my yearly payments for both cars from 1800 to 3900!!!!!!!

luckily i sorted it all out today...but i think im going to drive 10mph for a while lol

but if your serious about the open DP ill do it lol i dont really care....its not like i can boost yet with zero miles on the engine and clutch lol, im positive hondas will still be 1000000000 times louder then me anyways hahaha

TitaniumTT

02-08-2010, 10:57 PM

Damn man, that blows. The insurance that I have doesn't check my license with the DMV when it's time for renewal. It's this great little thing called the Platnium Discount. It's not really a discount, the actuaries figure it out such that you pay a small fee over what the normal policy is, but they don't run your license. Basically spreading the risk of not checking the license for people that haven't had tickets in a while. It was funny as hell, You've got a discount!! COOL! wait, why is it more expensive? :scratch: Whatever

If you want to come open DP that's cool with me, I would just be worried about the backfires catching shit on fire. We've got plenty of time to piss off my neighbor ;) If you're gonna wait on the charge pipe, we're gonna have to meet @ Alex's, about 10 minutes north of me. We moved my 450lb welder to his place to take care of some stuff. Kinda nice to have it out of the garage, but when I start doing the fuel cell, I'll have to do all the welding there, and then drive to my shop to fit. Meh, alot of back and forth but not too bad.

So, I got half the undercarriage cleaned tonight.. woo!!!! clean the other half tomorrow and probably flip her right side up and wash the bottom, and strip the harnesses and then have at the bottom of my car with a plasma cutter, die grinder, 4.5" grinder etc etc etc..... oh how I LOVE metal work :D Just wish it wasn't to a finish painted car :wallbash:

helghast7

02-09-2010, 12:36 AM

noice!! making some killer progress, my engine will definetly be in by the end of this weekend if it kills me!!!

and though i have no clue since ive never done it before, i cant imagine i would get much backfiring not driving past 3k rpms..but who knows....

TitaniumTT

02-09-2010, 07:47 AM

It depends on how the map is. When I first started my car last year the bumper was black after a 20 minute easy drive. Better to be safe than on fire.

65 days to go :D

BigIslandSevens

02-09-2010, 08:44 AM

Force13b

02-09-2010, 12:39 PM

Definately worth doing. I wish I had the means 7 years ago when I first painted the car. Oh well, as soon as I determine that there is nothing else needed to be welded to the chassis of the FD, she's going up on the same rotisserie to make sure the undercarriage is 100% and getting re-undercoated. Nice to know that everything is squared away before the pretty paint goes down. My biggest concern is that I'll damage the paint :leaving:
I plan on getting my car painted in the next year or so i just don't have the room to do something like that...or the know how :lol: Maybe sometime later.

TitaniumTT

02-09-2010, 02:28 PM

Pretty nuts progress man. I was wondering if you have plans for the Rotiserie? Meaning the dimensions etc..I need to build one for a few projects I have coming up.

The use of proper jack points is greatly understated . Sorry for the extra work involved fixing that crap.Dave

Don't have any plans for the rotrisserie, Alex actually built it. I can easily pull a few measurements for you if ya like and get some detailed pics. The problem is going to be making it universal and still having it with the roof as close tot he ground as possible. Meaning, the measurement I give you from the pvot point to the floor will onlt definately work with an FC, might need to adjust it for the FB or an FD.

Next time the comp makes it to the garage I'll get some measurements and a few pics for ya.

-Brian

I plan on getting my car painted in the next year or so i just don't have the room to do something like that...or the know how :lol: Maybe sometime later.

If I could do it again I would definately do the undercoating before the paint. My biggest fear is some of the shit is gonna run into the paint or I'm going to damage it somehow. Not a fun feeling by any stretch of the imagination. For you though Tyler, you've got a CA car so you shouldn't have nearly as many problem spots as I do. Unless of course the PO was a moron like mine and destroyed the "jack points." :rolleyes: I still haven't put up the money shot :rofl:
My car spent her first 9 years in VT, claimed it was stored for the winter in a garage but if there was no vapor barrier, it might as well be outside, concrete is fine, but some of the garages in VT are just a barn built on a mudpuddle. It would be easy enough, just time consuming, to get under the car, strip the suspension, drop the tank and the lines, go hog wild cleaning, and then roll the undercoating/bedliner on. If I didn't have any repairs to make that's what I would've done. It's all the welding and cutting and cleaning and grinding nad plasmaing and etc etc etc you get the point that is just much MUCH easier and quicker of the car is upsidedown like this

helghast7

02-09-2010, 04:37 PM

HelgHast7: FWIW- Insurance companies can add different point values for tickets than your states DMV does. They also hold them longer;) Here in NC alot of our traffic clients have run into this. It gives us a whole new field of practice in going back to old tickets and reducing them to eliminate insurance hitting you so hard. Not sure if NJ attorneys can go back into old cases or not but it may be worth checking into with a local lawyer.

Dave

i understand what your saying, and we have something similar to that...however

in my case it was just whatever company my insurance used to get the license info from, had completely false information

i already got it fixed monday, told my insurance to get my drivers abstract, which they did...

they called me back a couple hours later like..."ohhh....we fucked up....sorry"

TitaniumTT

02-09-2010, 10:53 PM

64 more days to go and all I got done today was to finish striping all the heavy nasty grime and dirt off. Tomorrow we're getting hammered by snow so the plan is to get her flipped right side up and strip out the harnesses, then get under the car while she right side up with some hot water, joy, and a stiff bristle brush and clean one more time. Flip upside down and dry. Hopefully I'll have all the repairs and prep done by the end of the weekend. Then I can get the shop up to 75* in Feb and roll the liner on. I'd LOVE to see her on the jackstands by early next week. Still have a bunch of harness work to do and the interior coating......... FUCK!!!! I need to do the RX8 seat mounts before the undercoating goes on.... damn.... hopefully I can get that done tomorrow as well.

Got the big 7" diameter pipe for the surge tank today :D Just waiting on my Bosch mount and some fuel hose and fittings and we can get into the fuel cell hardcore :D I'm liking working on it while it's upside down. Kinda refreshing and frightening at the same time.

calicrewchief

02-10-2010, 01:56 AM

:12::smilielol5::cuss: :suspect:Show us Your BEST Quote from Any reputable Body shop or Airbrush Artist, & We’ll BEAT IT, Guaranteed ! - www.LionzDenAuto.com
(http://www.LionzDenAuto.com)

helghast7

02-10-2010, 02:31 AM

Show us Your BEST Quote from Any reputable Body shop or Airbrush Artist, & We’ll BEAT IT, Guaranteed ! - www.LionzDenAuto.com
(http://www.LionzDenAuto.com)

you better be careful throwing statements like that around, theres alot of people on here, like me, that will call you out on that end end up getting a whole car painted for 100 bucks from you

TitaniumTT

02-10-2010, 08:33 AM

Show us Your BEST Quote from Any reputable Body shop or Airbrush Artist, & We’ll BEAT IT, Guaranteed ! - www.LionzDenAuto.com
(http://www.LionzDenAuto.com)

When it comes to craftsmanship, you get what you pay for. I'm not cheap, you are..... where do we go from here?

Abdul needs some body work before Deals right?

FC3S Murray

02-10-2010, 12:43 PM

Holy shit Brian you have been busy!!!

You make me nervous...I have always used the pinch welds for jacking points....I am a bad man. I went and looked at my undercarriage and they are clean as a wistle(Cali car and never driven in bad weather, there or here in Montana. Regardless I have moved my jack stands to where they belong. :)

How difficult is the installation of that Traction Control system? Just curious to how you would set-up that monitoring system.

TitaniumTT

02-10-2010, 02:40 PM

I'm going with the MoTeC traction control Multiplexer, the TCMux. With the M"hundred series" you can wire the signals directly to the ECU IFF they are hall effect signals. If they're a mag signal like the stock ABS system is, they need to be converted to a Hall Effect signal. MoTeC has the converters, one per axle. In my case though, I have 4 digital inputs, right now one is wheel speed off the driveshaft, one is low sump, and the other low 2-stroke. Becuase I don't want to give up the low level warnings (I could with a simple LED light, but want them to trigger an RPM limit if they do go off) I needed the TCMux. It takes all the signals and converts them to a coded signal that the ECU sees. From that it gets wheel speed, both driven and rolling, calculates slip, and activates or doesn't activate the traction control.

The Traction Control itself can be setup anyway you want it to. Ignition retard, fuel cut, hard cut, boost dump etc etc. In our case, can't really use ignition retard becuase it'll melt turbo's, fuel cut is a bad idea, hard cut can get dangerous so I'll be using the boost dump. I suspect that the boost dump won't do everthing that I want it to. So I may be changing to a DBW which is definately the way to go. The ECU senses the slip and backs the throttle off for you. Can't get much better than that.

The problem that us rotary guys have is the way the earlier MOP's work, it's a feedback system (which is better than the renni's non-feedback system) and the ECU just doesn't have the outputs to run two basic DBW systems. So if I do go the DBW route, I may need to get MoTeC's DBW-4 which is a CAN commincation setup, or ditch my MOP and run a DBW setup and save whatever the DBW-4 expense is. But this is next winter stuff :D

I will tell you now though that the FD will be a DBW system, and I won't be running the OMP on that motor, so I'll probably ditch the OMP on the FC as well.

As long as you're using the factory jack on the pinch welds you're good to go. The factory jack doesn't put any weight on the seems, it uses the seems to keep it from slipping off. It's when shops use them for lifts, and home guys use their floor jacks that you run into problems like the disaster that I'm dealing with. I'm actually heading outside shortly to get back at the FC. Undercarriage is completely clean so it's time to flip her over and strip all the harnesses out, then wash the underside..... and the floors after I'm done :rofl:

64 days....... wow.... need to stay busy

TitaniumTT

02-10-2010, 11:35 PM

Got a bunch more done tonight and we've turned the corner. Everything has been stripped and cleaned. I'm hoping that the repairs will be done by the end of the weekend and the herculiner will be on too. I think that's a little ambitious but we'll see.

So the FC is shiny side up again but man is she looking bare. The only things left on the car are the woper motor, the MoTeC and the fuel filter :smilielol5:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7339&stc=1&d=1265863019

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7340&stc=1&d=1265863019

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7341&stc=1&d=1265863019

Force13b

02-11-2010, 12:46 AM

Your car looks as good as always Brian, can't wait to see the fabrications you come up with for the FD.

WE3RX7

02-11-2010, 08:21 AM

Are you taking the cage out to spray the LS?

TitaniumTT

02-11-2010, 12:33 PM

Your car looks as good as always Brian, can't wait to see the fabrications you come up with for the FD.

Thanks Tyler, as soon as the FC is done we're rolling the FD in for the same treatment as the FC is getting now. I really just want her clean and one color, then I'll start all the fab work and welding, then reprime, undercoating, lizard skin, etc etc. I'd LOVE to have her done in a year..... we'll see.

Are you taking the cage out to spray the LS?

Definately, gotta take the base plates off for the herculiner and I'm always one to remove a part rather than tape it off. I've found it takes about the same time but by taking it off you remove the chance of overspray and get better coverage..... kind of a no brainer in my eyes.

BigIslandSevens

02-11-2010, 02:06 PM

WE3RX7

02-11-2010, 03:40 PM

Does Kirky have a part # on that bolt in cage for the FC or was it simply made to order? I'm still probably going the autopower 6 point mainly so I can add door bars to fulfill the requirement, but I love the connection in the rear and the x brace.... the added trans tunnel bar is a good idea too....

helghast7

02-11-2010, 11:28 PM

engines going back in this weekend! wish me luck lol

TitaniumTT

02-12-2010, 09:24 AM

Hey Brian,

Thanks for the offer of pics and measurements on the rotisiree. Whenever you get a chance to do that it would be great. No rush, you have enough on your hands.:D I think it will be a good height for all three gens. Both the FB and FD bodies appear to be shorter from rockers to roof visually than the FC. I can always modify the original design.

Dave

No worries Dave, glad to help out. I was actually planning on grabbing them today but I got work from my buddy that we're heading up to ME to pick up his Landi...... WOOT!!!! Another 14 hr road trip and one mkore project!!!! I'm up to 5!
My FC, FD, boat,
Alex's FC
Buddies boat
and now the Landi will be here for a few tweaks before my buddy head off to live outt that thing for a month.... sweet! This is the motivation I needed to start cranking into thoat 36hr work days :D

Does Kirky have a part # on that bolt in cage for the FC or was it simply made to order? I'm still probably going the autopower 6 point mainly so I can add door bars to fulfill the requirement, but I love the connection in the rear and the x brace.... the added trans tunnel bar is a good idea too....

Kirk had a few part numbers and options. When I spoke with them they didn't have something perfect for me. I had them build me their bolt in hoop as a weld in piece, then I bought their weld in full cage kit (yeah I know but I was hoping) When I got it I installed the hoop and welded the x-bars up in a weld in style, but made them bolt in, then I added the trans braces myself... had to order some extra material for them. The cage put the front kickers WAY to close to my head, found this out after I tacked it in so I just cut them out. The dash brace actually turned into my front bumper support and the door bars are being used for Alex's front bumper support. Kirk is great, they'll work with you.

TitaniumTT

02-12-2010, 09:25 AM

engines going back in this weekend! wish me luck lol

Good luck man! Gimme a shout if you've got any questions.

WE3RX7

02-12-2010, 09:58 AM

Ah - good to know on the cage. I knew it looked custom but the bolted in factor was throwing me...

helghast7

02-12-2010, 06:48 PM

Good luck man! Gimme a shout if you've got any questions.

thanks Brian

hopefully things should go smoothly...but im sure your going to end up getting a call anyways lol

budfc3s

02-12-2010, 07:26 PM

looking good hope to see it soon

TitaniumTT

02-13-2010, 01:11 AM

Ah - good to know on the cage. I knew it looked custom but the bolted in factor was throwing me...

Yeah, I just can't leave anything alone can I :rofl:

Kirks a great co, they worked with me alot to get what I wanted. For the FD Alex and I are going to build a bender and build a bar ourselves for it. I want something that I can weld into the chassis with gussets, yet still have the interior removeable, serviceable, and looking good..... we'll see if that is all even possible. Gotta ge the FC done and with the Landi we picked up today, it's gonna be a 4 day thrash to get that done so my buddy can get outta dodge and head down to the Everglades for a month. Now I'm hoping to get the FC rolling again before NEXT weekend is over..... sigh...

thanks Brian

hopefully things should go smoothly...but im sure your going to end up getting a call anyways lol

No worries, Dave, I got your txt today but I was driving the whole time and BB'ing while driving has gotten me in trouble in the past... you'll have a txt in a few min.

TitaniumTT

02-13-2010, 01:12 AM

looking good hope to see it soon

Thanks Kyle, hoping to be there before 3/15 but we'll see how that goes. How's the moving going? and my rear/tranny?

helghast7

02-13-2010, 01:41 AM

budfc3s

02-13-2010, 09:11 AM

not sure where daves at on your trans an rear......moving is going slow...the snow really killed us this week

TitaniumTT

02-13-2010, 09:38 AM

lol no biggie im not in any rush, not like i can use it yet lol, i just like having all the parts i need at once so i dont have to go searching when i need it

hell dave still has my PFC...kinda getting a bit worried with that since i am getting close to needing that

Yeah I know what you mean about having parts.... I ordered a ton that I don't need quite yet. I wouldn't worry at all about Dave, he always comes through ;)

not sure where daves at on your trans an rear......moving is going slow...the snow really killed us this week

No worries, I know you guys are getting stressed and I bet the snow fucked you royally...... how much did you guys end up getting?

budfc3s

02-13-2010, 09:43 AM

28 inches about more or less in some areas

TitaniumTT

02-13-2010, 10:13 AM

DAMN!!! Sorry Kyle, that blows..... We got about a foot and it fucked me pretty well, 2.5x's that must've altered plans quite a bit.

WE3RX7

02-13-2010, 10:41 AM

TitaniumTT

02-13-2010, 11:32 AM

Kyle huh - I have yet to meet you at Dave's place. You'll be seeing me soon enough, lol... any move thats closer to VA is good for me :)

Brian, get moving on that landi so I can see your interior coating! 48 hour run is a cake walk ;)

Serious ? though... what are you doing for jack points on your FC? I'm considering adding jack pads to mine so that once the car is done and sitting low with side skirt I can easily get a jack under it, locked in and lifted quick! Benz and BMW (i think) started doing jacking pads several years ago and I would love to integrate something similar.... you are more of the fab guy so I'd be intersted to see/hear your thoughts on it....

Hell yeah get moving on it..... We want to get it done by Wed. Assuming the parts get here in time, should be no problem.

The seems I am reenforcing..... ha! OK, one I am reinforcing, the other three I am rebuilding, strengthening the center of them as well and yes, I am adding jackpads to the front. The rear doesn't need them, you have the subframe and the diff to jack from. The front I was planning on making the pad far forward where the center "framerail" meets the engine bay "framerail" If yo ulook under the car you'll see what I mean. I was planning on doing this anyway then when I started cleaning I discovered that the rust had crept under the undercoating and rotted that seem out. So what was intended to be a little bonus, is now something that needs to be done :banghead: There won't be any locking points so to speak, just a nice flat 3/16" steel pad.

WE3RX7

02-13-2010, 11:50 AM

Exactly - I know just what you're talking about and thats the same location I was thinking of adding mine (only on front... agree that the rear is overkill and not needed)...

djmtsu

02-13-2010, 02:19 PM

Well you guys, my FC is dead. Spun rotor bearing :(

Guess I won't bring it to DGRR :(

Any of you crackheads need parts, thinking of parting it out.

helghast7

02-13-2010, 08:54 PM

well so far so good, tomorrow morning im finishing up the harness and droping the engine in

TitaniumTT

02-15-2010, 12:09 AM

Well you guys, my FC is dead. Spun rotor bearing :(

Guess I won't bring it to DGRR :(

Any of you crackheads need parts, thinking of parting it out.

Say it isn't so!!

I've got bearings and e-shafts if you want/need.... like shipping plus buy me a beer or 14 :rofl:

well so far so good, tomorrow morning im finishing up the harness and droping the engine in

So aside from the MAP, how'd everything else go? What's next?

Aight..... for all of y'all that have been asking about the rotisserie..... I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF THE CAR FALLS AND CRUSHES YOU, YOUR FOOT, OR YOUR SOUL!!!!

anywho.... here are some pics of measurements because well, a pic is worth a 1000 words.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7391&stc=1&d=1266210641

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7392&stc=1&d=1266210641

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7393&stc=1&d=1266210641

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7394&stc=1&d=1266210641

TitaniumTT

02-15-2010, 12:27 AM

Soooooomewhat productive weekend. Over the course of the last 13 years all the wiring that I have done hasn't really voided the factory harnesses.... all that went out the window Saturday morning when I sliced into the front harness and rewired sooooo many things. Spliced into the fuse block too for things that I've added and mooched off Alex's spare harness for a few pins to wire things strait to the battery that need power with it's off - Alarm, radio mem, PDL, PW. Also bought a new Clifford Alarm with remote start thats going in :D

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7395&stc=1&d=1266211690

still need to get an after shot

Then I went after finishing up the mounting for the RX8 seats........ still a PITA btw. I think Todd has the right idea to mount those eff'ers.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7396&stc=1&d=1266211690

Then went back over the chassis looking for rot and found one more place.... here are the worst of the spots..... ugh..... gotta get hoping on these repairs damnit.... 60 days to go and I keep finding more and more work :banghead:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7397&stc=1&d=1266211690

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7398&stc=1&d=1266211690

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7399&stc=1&d=1266211690

helghast7

02-15-2010, 12:27 AM

So aside from the MAP, how'd everything else go? What's next?

it went very well and pretty damn smoothly, i actually already ordered another one :)

the hardest time we had was with the new poly engine mounts not wanting to cooperate, but we got it in good, PPF was perfect ;), though i forgot to bring a 1/2 inch extension home so i could only gun on 5 of the 9 bolts onto it..ill save that for tomorrow lol

now i have to put her back together lol, im gona try and finish the real important stuff and then jump to the intercooler kit so i can bring it with the seats this weekend

but im hopeing things go just as smoothly with putting her back together as it did with installing the engine...ill put up a couple pics in a momento lol

helghast7

02-15-2010, 12:38 AM

before we dropped it in, looks just as clean as when she first went up

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn58/Helghast7/project%20fd/DSCF6194.jpg

looks like shes gona eat it..nom nom nom

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn58/Helghast7/project%20fd/DSCF6202.jpg

as its going in

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn58/Helghast7/project%20fd/DSCF6205.jpg

BAM!! mission accomplished

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn58/Helghast7/project%20fd/DSCF6206.jpg

RIP map sensor though lol

TitaniumTT

02-15-2010, 02:12 AM

SWEET! So whens the first fire? Liking the color combo on the engine and really glad to hear that the PPF fits as it should! That's awesome. now you've gotta drop in a single and break it in some other place ;)

I feel so bad for you working outside, although at least it was nice and warm today. I went outside this morning with a cup of coffee and turned the heat on to 60* and then went back inside to finish my coffee while the garage got warm..... but I'm old and get cranky easy :smilielol5:

How bad is the anticipation to drive her?

RIP MAP sensor :lol: if that's the only thing that went bad, that's a good thing, could've been a lot worse.

helghast7

02-15-2010, 03:43 PM

SWEET! So whens the first fire? Liking the color combo on the engine and really glad to hear that the PPF fits as it should! That's awesome. now you've gotta drop in a single and break it in some other place ;)

hopefully by the end of the month, i still need a few things..mostly im just waiting for it to ship to me now...kinda went crazy this weekend lol

and yea like a glove, couldnt have asked for a better job

yea i no man, i wana go single but i burnt up so much money this season that theres no way i can do it, ill have to wait till next season, luckly i did all the nonsequential mods this season so it shouldnt be much work when i do go single

I feel so bad for you working outside, although at least it was nice and warm today. I went outside this morning with a cup of coffee and turned the heat on to 60* and then went back inside to finish my coffee while the garage got warm..... but I'm old and get cranky easy :smilielol5:

haha yea it sucks...but it could be worse, at least i have a driveway, i know some people that dont even have that with FDs

How bad is the anticipation to drive her?

lets put it this way...i sometimes zone out imagining im driving her, hahaha, its eating away at my soul :o11:

RIP MAP sensor :lol: if that's the only thing that went bad, that's a good thing, could've been a lot worse.

yea definetly, i can deal with 25 bucks, i dont think i could have dealed with worse

2gslse

02-15-2010, 04:10 PM

Force13b

02-15-2010, 05:15 PM

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7395&stc=1&d=1266211690

lol at frosted propane tank what kind of heater you running there

helghast7

02-15-2010, 06:57 PM

Good to see brian fixed your PPF and you used poly mounts did you look at your diff mounts also or replace them? I broke my PPF within the first 4000 miles after reconstruction I had poly mounts on the engine and bad diff mounts I used a set of jimlabs bushings in mine (I still have the rest just never put them in :) )

no i havent yet, its on my to do list, but time and money are kind of a restrictor at the moment, im not to to worried about it yet, since as of right now the weakest point is my tires, so she'll break lose before she snaps something

if i find a set/make one ill throw it in when i can, doesnt look all that hard to change....definetly a hell of alot easier then changing the diff mounts on a fucking FC.......ive had the front diff mount on my FC broken for a good year now...the new one is still sitting in my room :)

nothing like getting a big bang everytime you change gears ;)

TitaniumTT

02-16-2010, 12:56 AM

hopefully by the end of the month, i still need a few things..mostly im just waiting for it to ship to me now...kinda went crazy this weekend lol

Yeah tell me about it. I've bought $450 worth of tools ...mmmmmmm... tools... $200 and something for an alarm, $80 fuel pump mount, I think about $400 from MoTeC for connectors and $250 for some pretty sexy billet mounts for my ECU and TCMux.... I don't know why, no one will ever see them.... maybe I'll cut out my carpet and make the cover out of plexi so I can show them off :rofl:

and yea like a glove, couldnt have asked for a better job

Awesome... glad to hear it!

yea i no man, i wana go single but i burnt up so much money this season that theres no way i can do it, ill have to wait till next season, luckly i did all the nonsequential mods this season so it shouldnt be much work when i do go single

Sweet.... by then I should have a jig setup for a mani :suspect:

haha yea it sucks...but it could be worse, at least i have a driveway, i know some people that dont even have that with FDs

My buddy blew his timing belt in his DSM once, we had it towed to his apt and had to deal with that there.... I swore I would never work in a parking lot again... :shudders:

lets put it this way...i sometimes zone out imagining im driving her, hahaha, its eating away at my soul :o11:

:smilielol5: Know that feeling

yea definetly, i can deal with 25 bucks, i dont think i could have dealed with worse

Yup, worse things could've happened.

Good to see brian fixed your PPF and you used poly mounts did you look at your diff mounts also or replace them? I broke my PPF within the first 4000 miles after reconstruction I had poly mounts on the engine and bad diff mounts I used a set of jimlabs bushings in mine (I still have the rest just never put them in :) )

Hmmmmm.... I'm gonna have to do some reengineering when the time comes. I know I'll be rocking a solid torque brace on the engine, Building my own diff mount out of AL (and jigging it) and I'll probably build a tranny brace as well.... not using the FD tranny though :rofl:

TitaniumTT

02-16-2010, 12:58 AM

lol at frosted propane tank what kind of heater you running there

LB White 80,000 btu thermo controlled. It's usually outside pumping heat into the annex but it was so damn cold lately I moved the boat out, and closed the bay door and got the garage up to an easy 60. The boat's outside, Landi is back in and we had the annex and the shop up to about 65-70* tonight.... so awesome.

nothing like getting a big bang everytime you change gears ;)

Been there, done that..... doing anything regarding the subframe on an FC blows.

helghast7

02-16-2010, 04:25 PM

god damn snow! i swear its like forces from above are just fucking with me now

helghast7

02-18-2010, 06:40 PM

Hey Brian, im definetly coming to drop off the seats this weekend, but im not quite ready for the weld yet, damn weather is slowing me down. ill probably bring that by when i pick up the seats

let me know which day is better for you

TitaniumTT

02-19-2010, 02:38 AM

I'd say Sunday would be better, when do you think you're gonna need the seats back? The weather is supposed to BLOW next week and we need to pull my FD out of storage and do the bulk of the fitting outside as Alex's car is coming in for paint as soon as mine rolls again. It MAY be better to push it back a week?

TitaniumTT

02-19-2010, 02:48 AM

So my testicles finally decended :smilielol5: and I started on the rot repair tonight. Started by removing the factory sound deadner. I've found that if you score it with a scraper, then use that same scraper to hammer away at it, it comes off in sections. I plan on leaving as much down as possible and just putting the LS over what the factory put down. Trying to make the interior as quite as possible.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7418&stc=1&d=1266565789

Then the good 'ole plasma comes out. Way more get's cut out than you would think to make sure you get all the cancer out and have good material to weld to. The factory sheet metal is thin, really thin, 18 maybe 20 gauge.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7419&stc=1&d=1266565789

and from the bottom, the car was right side up for most of this repair but being able to flip her upside down for welding both sides is KEY!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7420&stc=1&d=1266565789

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7421&stc=1&d=1266565789

Had to cut out a piece of the seat support so I could get better access to the area that needed to be repaired.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7422&stc=1&d=1266565789

TitaniumTT

02-19-2010, 02:54 AM

Welded one piece of 16ga into the bottom

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7423&stc=1&d=1266566179

Then the vertical piece gets welded in... I swear that vertical peice was 22ga and MIG'ing 22ga to 16ga is a PITA..... not my prettiest welds but they're strong as all get out.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7424&stc=1&d=1266566179

and one shot of the nastiness that I cut out. Shame, damn NE cars. The worst of the repairs are still to come over the next few days. PRAYING to get the Herculiner on by the end of the weekend but I doubt it'll happen..... oh well. I still have 56 days left :rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7425&stc=1&d=1266566179

helghast7

02-19-2010, 06:38 AM

WE3RX7

02-19-2010, 08:56 AM

You can always flapper wheel those welds down to a nice finish if you cared, but its getting covered back up I'm assuming anyways...

The factory sound deadening is 25lbs+ so its all coming out on mine before LS goes down. Most of the factory sheet metal in the rear is pretty thin, I know just pulling the speaker towers out resulted in a few small holes in mine, it almost tears like paper its so thin!

Good weather down this way this weekend though, so hopefully you'll have the same and get a bunch of shit knocked out!

TitaniumTT

02-19-2010, 10:08 AM

well if its easier on you to wait till next weekend then thats fine with me, im not going to need them for a bit since i still have a bunch of stuff to put back together, i think im pretty close, but i still feel like i have miles to go....it doesnt help that i keep loseing my antenna mast lol

It's really up to you pal, I'm looking at the weather now and they're saying some sort of precipitation EVERY day next week :banghead: Lemme talk to Alex and see if we can fit the FD in his garage. I doubt it, but it's worth a shot. Then we just need to bring my Plasma cutter to his place. If you're not in a huge rush than I would say we should put it off till next weekend and save you a trip to CT. This way you can drop the seats off, hang out for a bit while I weld up the intake pipe, and come back hopefully the following weekend and snag the seats. Sound like a plan? What do you want to do?

TitaniumTT

02-19-2010, 10:29 AM

You can always flapper wheel those welds down to a nice finish if you cared, but its getting covered back up I'm assuming anyways...

Yeah, but when you flapper them down, you remove strength, not a lot, but some. I plan on sanding the bottoms down, because that'll be seen..... sorta :rofl: Had I flipped the car upside down and welded the bottom first, I would've been able to run a continuous bead on the top, but the vertical piece still would've been a series of incredibly small stitch welds... oh well.

The factory sound deadening is 25lbs+ so its all coming out on mine before LS goes down. Most of the factory sheet metal in the rear is pretty thin, I know just pulling the speaker towers out resulted in a few small holes in mine, it almost tears like paper its so thin!

According to FedEx the 2Gal LS weighs 30lbs for shipping, I'm not concerned with weight so much anymore. I used to be nuts about it but there gets to a certain point, for me anyway, where 25lbs of weight vs something that's quieter, cooler, and better sounding is worth it. You're looking for a 2600lb FC though, so yeah, every little bit helps. The FD for example, I'll be surprised if it weighs less than 2900 lbs'. The FC is 2800 which is light enough for me.

Good weather down this way this weekend though, so hopefully you'll have the same and get a bunch of shit knocked out!

Supposed to be awesome weather up here too.... lower 40's and sunny to boot. Most of the work is done in the garage so the weather doesn't really effect me, but we're out of space until the boat leaves which doesn't look like it's happening anytime soon.... sadly. Oh well, with Alex's car here I'll be forced to devote a bunch of time to the boat.

BigIslandSevens

02-19-2010, 11:59 AM

My FD on a set of CAT scales coming back from a dyno run was 2660 with 1/2 tank and NO driver( 200#) I am single turbo R2 with no a/c,p/s,ABS,etc..

How accurate those scales are I don't know.

helghast7

02-19-2010, 04:37 PM

yea that works for me, im not in a rush yet, when it starts to get closer to being done...like when i first fire her up, then thats when ill be in a rush lol

TitaniumTT

02-19-2010, 08:11 PM

My FD on a set of CAT scales coming back from a dyno run was 2660 with 1/2 tank and NO driver( 200#) I am single turbo R2 with no a/c,p/s,ABS,etc..

How accurate those scales are I don't know.

VERY accurate, and DAMN Dave, that's light!

yea that works for me, im not in a rush yet, when it starts to get closer to being done...like when i first fire her up, then thats when ill be in a rush lol

No worries man. We just got set back a day too with Alex's crap. It'll be a miracle if his car makes it to my shop by mid week as planned.:banghead:

It's just a matter of getting one day of decent weather were we can both crank on it for a solid day.

helghast7

02-19-2010, 09:30 PM

TitaniumTT

02-20-2010, 01:21 AM

yea i completely understand what you mean

im praying this weekend is good, im intending on getting alot of stuff done, i just picked up everything i need to finish my battery relocation and my fuel pump rewire except welding wire :( stupid store closed right when i got there

oh well theres always tomorrow

Yup, I need to rock and fucking roll this weekend. I've got 2.5 patches done and 6.5 left. AND I decided that I'm going to roll my primer which means that it needs to kick for 2 days :banghead:

So I can bust my ass all I want I still need to sit around for 2 days and do nothing but touch myself while watching paint dry :smilielol5: before I can do the Lizard Skin or the Herculiner

Meh, 55 days left, I just hope that I don't have any issues bodyworking/shooting Alex's car, that could fuck us both for Deals, and if I don't make it to deals becuase of some abortion LS1 powered RED RX7.... I may have to kill him :rofl:

helghast7

02-20-2010, 08:11 AM

lmao!!!

helghast7

02-21-2010, 01:59 AM

.....i think i need to go to modders rehab....i cant turn it off man

i keep getting these ideas in my head that i want to try....ugh

cant discuss these things here :suspect: lol

TitaniumTT

02-21-2010, 09:58 PM

:rofl: There is no rehab, there is only cold turkey, the cure is to go out and buy a honduh ;)

Not a bad, but not a good weekend either. Got most of the patches done before I ran out of weldthru primer, pics say it all I guess. This is getting old damnit, I just wanna SPRAY!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7433&stc=1&d=1266807619

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7434&stc=1&d=1266807619

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7435&stc=1&d=1266807619

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7436&stc=1&d=1266807619

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7437&stc=1&d=1266807619

TitaniumTT

02-21-2010, 10:02 PM

A few more

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7438&stc=1&d=1266807811

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7439&stc=1&d=1266807811

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7440&stc=1&d=1266807811

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7441&stc=1&d=1266807811

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7442&stc=1&d=1266807811

TitaniumTT

02-21-2010, 10:06 PM

Last batch maybe?

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7443&stc=1&d=1266807812

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7444&stc=1&d=1266807812

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7445&stc=1&d=1266807812

This was the patch on the "frame rail," don't know why I didn't get a before, but there were three layers that needed to be patched, and this is where I'm going to put the 1/8" thick Jack Pads if I EVER nee to get something there.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7446&stc=1&d=1266807812

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7447&stc=1&d=1266807812

TitaniumTT

02-21-2010, 10:08 PM

This one is gonna suck.... I have more to cut out on the outboard side of the pinch weld :banghead:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7448&stc=1&d=1266808079

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7449&stc=1&d=1266808079

helghast7

02-21-2010, 10:11 PM

helghast7

02-21-2010, 10:16 PM

ive always been told to put it before the IC but idk

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn58/Helghast7/project%20fd/DSCF6214.jpg

Force13b

02-22-2010, 02:51 PM

Brian car's looking...holly :lol:

So that box i asked you about it is a lojack box i can have them come out and "inspect it" and they'll put in a change ownership for it for 99$. Not sure what i'm going to do.

Also for the sound deadening i heard if you put dry ice on it or, you know the air cans, turn that upside down and spray the liquid on it the stuff will break off easier.

WE3RX7

02-22-2010, 04:22 PM

dry ice works wonders on tar for sure.

As for the BOV, I've traditionally kept mine closer to the TB - 12" or less away, but I've run them both ways. Physically it makes more sense there then before the IC...

TitaniumTT

02-22-2010, 04:42 PM

ohhhhh...i love looking at your welds, it always inspires me to get better at welding myself....which is why im diving right in and trying to weld up my own battery tray :D

im sure next weekend ill come crying to you to fix it =D

btw im gona post up a pick of the first time i mocked up the IC piping i want ur opinion on where you would put the BOV...though space is going to be more limited once its in for real since i didnt put the rad or condencer in yet

:rofl: Thanks Dave.... in a few months I need to build an Aluminum one for my truck so I'll keep some measurements etc and see what we can figure out. The one in the FC I welded strait to the chassis, just need to coat it now.

I've always kept my BOV's as close to the TB's as possible, like Bill said, makes more sense to have it there.

Brian car's looking...holly :lol:

:smilielol5: You should see what I'm tackling tonight.... see comment below *** :lol:

So that box i asked you about it is a lojack box i can have them come out and "inspect it" and they'll put in a change ownership for it for 99$. Not sure what i'm going to do.

Cool, glad ya figured that out. I dunno, it's worth it to have sometimes. It doesn't matter how many starter kills, fuel cuts, etc etc you put in the car, it's just as easy to tow the fucker. It doesn't make all that much sense for me becuase of where I am, I don't take alot of trips, and when I do the cars are locked up, not to mention I have a ton of neighbors etc.... so I wouldn't, but for $99, it's already there, I don't know what their monitoring contracts are like but it might be something to look into.

Also for the sound deadening i heard if you put dry ice on it or, you know the air cans, turn that upside down and spray the liquid on it the stuff will break off easier.

Yeah, but honestly, my LS weighs like 25lbs, the sound deadener weighs 25lbs, if it was a track car I would strip it out, but I want to make this thing more of a touring car that's competive on the auto-x's/track days, not a track car that I drive on the street, so the sound and heat rejection that the LS plus the factory offers is where's it's at for me

dry ice works wonders on tar for sure.

So does heat. Heat gun to soften the shit up, then some 3M Adhesive remover for what's left over works awesome as well ;)

*** If I EVER catch anyone jacking an RX7 up by the seems, I'm going to jam that jack so far up your ass that I'll be able to use your face as the jack pad to show you were to properly jack from while operating the jack with your leg

Force13b

02-22-2010, 04:56 PM

Cool, glad ya figured that out. I dunno, it's worth it to have sometimes. It doesn't matter how many starter kills, fuel cuts, etc etc you put in the car, it's just as easy to tow the fucker. It doesn't make all that much sense for me becuase of where I am, I don't take alot of trips, and when I do the cars are locked up, not to mention I have a ton of neighbors etc.... so I wouldn't, but for $99, it's already there, I don't know what their monitoring contracts are like but it might be something to look into.
I think i'll leave it in but fix the hack job for wiring. Then later on i'll call up and have them come check it out.

*** If I EVER catch anyone jacking an RX7 up by the seems, I'm going to jam that jack so far up your ass that I'll be able to use your face as the jack pad to show you were to properly jack from while operating the jack with your leg
lol just by looking under my car i can see the old owners did that to my car quite a bit. Not to mention a dent where it looks like the jack sliped or something.

helghast7

02-22-2010, 07:20 PM

WE3RX7

02-22-2010, 08:00 PM

I missed all the pics on page 15 - dude, your car had a ton of rot... that SUCKS! Good thing you're addressing it now though before it got worse. You may need to move to warmer/less salty climates!

2gslse

02-22-2010, 08:51 PM

So that box i asked you about it is a lojack box i can have them come out and "inspect it" and they'll put in a change ownership for it for 99$. Not sure what i'm going to do.

How much is the service to keep lojack active? Couldn't you also get a cell phone for a kid added to your plan I think I have seen them have a chaparone (check spelling) feature on them so you can track them yourself(also be good to track S.O. if anything suspicious) . If I was going to do it I would wire it in someplace hooked to the charger it would be better than the cops sitting there not giving a s*it about another stolen car and if you need another phone it would be there waiting

BTW... Brian I received the merc. marine coils whenever you get ready to do the testing let me know I'll ship them up to ya if you are still planning on the great coil dyno day.

TitaniumTT

02-23-2010, 12:50 AM

cool, makes sense to me..

i actually made the tray already....well its in pieces at the moment...i just need to weld it together..hopefully harbor freight is open....i swear they have the stupidest hours

Cool! Bring it, I wanna see :D

Something else to consider is putting it right on that Greddy elbow. THe elbow is cast AL, THICK cast AL and that flange, if it's the Greedy one as well is a nice thick billet AL.... those two will weld together nicely. I dunno where the intercooler piping came from but I've had issues in the past trying to weld ebizzle intercooler piping kits together...... just something to thing about.

BTW... Brian I received the merc. marine coils whenever you get ready to do the testing let me know I'll ship them up to ya if you are still planning on the great coil dyno day.

Cool, sounds good to me! Yes, we're still planning on doing the great dyno day. I think it'll be very early April at this point with my car getting a little behind and Alex's getting here for paint sometime this weekend. I spoke with Simon and he is sending his M&W CDI and Merc coils when he sends me some sensors in a few days :D This is gonna be fun..........

I missed all the pics on page 15 - dude, your car had a ton of rot... that SUCKS! Good thing you're addressing it now though before it got worse. You may need to move to warmer/less salty climates!

You're telling me Bill..... it keeps getting worse and worse. A little pinhole requires HUGE pieces to be cut out to get all of it.... fucking blows!

Here's the repair from the passenger side.... wait till you see the drivers side :banghead:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7452&stc=1&d=1266904343

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7453&stc=1&d=1266904343

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7454&stc=1&d=1266904343

TitaniumTT

02-23-2010, 01:01 AM

Fuck you winter

Fuck you rot

Fuck you piss poor ex-husband body shop owner repairs..... who the fuck does this?!?!?!?!? (oh yeah, the PO's ex husband owned a bodyshop..... if he treated here twice as good as he treated her car, well it's a good thing they're done)

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7455&stc=1&d=1266904464

I mean, he just welded the rot shut! There we're 1" long peiced of welding wire sticking through the other side... shoulda gotten a picture of that :smilielol5:

And look at this shit, an entire piece if just rotted away:banghead:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7456&stc=1&d=1266904464

So yeah, we're gonna have to be replacing that whole piece... yeah, spot weld cutters are awesome......

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7457&stc=1&d=1266904464

I don't know if this was a jack incident, more like she ran into a fucking curb..... that's a pretty serious hit and the run under the valance is distorted as well.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7458&stc=1&d=1266904464

One more corner after this repair and I may just rock it out all night tomorrow just to be done with it........ ugh... I just want to turn the corner and get my girl on the ground.... dee dee dee... no pun intended on that one.

helghast7

02-23-2010, 01:19 AM

WE3RX7

02-23-2010, 06:53 AM

Man Brian, your car was all kinds of jacked up (pun intended there)! You may actually shave a few seconds from the next auto-x session... wonder if your roll cage is what held the car together with all that power and rot :)

Looks good though man... cant wait to see it at Dave's or DGRR!

TitaniumTT

02-23-2010, 09:32 AM

seems like a possiblility, though theres really not much room over there since im keeping the crusie control, and the tial BOV is a big one lol

as for the piping, the whole kit is a real greddy kit, not the knock off from rx7store so it "should" be good to weld on

wether it is or not is another thing...

Yeah, I hear ya.... thick is better though ;)

The intercooler end tanks are another option too. I would like to see it on the elbow for a few reasons, another being you can change the intercooler around and not worry about boving the BOV int he future ;)

do you want me to bring the tray in pieces or together haha!!

Up to you, my MIG is at my shop, my TIG is at Alex's

Man Brian, your car was all kinds of jacked up (pun intended there)! You may actually shave a few seconds from the next auto-x session... wonder if your roll cage is what held the car together with all that power and rot :)

Looks good though man... cant wait to see it at Dave's or DGRR!

Thanks Bill, yeah all kinds of rot. I dont think it'll really affect anything though based on where the suspension carrys the load through the chassis. I'm sure it'll help though, but the suspension was pretty stiff, not to mention all the chassis stiffners I added. Still makes me feel better to know that the rot has stopped as much as possible anyway. I'm sure there are other places that I just cannot see. Afterall, we are talking about a 22 year old car here.

I tell ya though, this is the first thing that I'm doing with the FD, actually the first thing is going to be to build a battery tray as that will be welded in, the it's down to primer, on the rotisserie, go through the chassis, fix ANYTHING up front, new undercoating, new interior coating, prime the chassis, then start mocking everything up and building all these parts that people keep requesting :rofl:

helghast7

02-23-2010, 08:27 PM

classicauto

02-24-2010, 02:41 PM

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7455&stc=1&d=1266904464

How secksay!

I can has him 4 employment? Dats da m0st aw3shum skillz evar!

Gregory Casimir

02-24-2010, 04:02 PM

wow what a pain in the ass. you should mail the piece you cut out to him

sickofpistons

02-24-2010, 04:49 PM

In a box full of shitzies too! Lol
nice build and progress so far thou, brian !

limbar85

02-24-2010, 06:04 PM

I haven't read through all of the pages, so I'm not sure what color or brand of paint you are using for everything, but I highly recommend Eastwood's 2K Ceramic Chassis Black or even any of their Extreme Chassis stuff. Very Very durable stuff.

Max777

02-25-2010, 04:18 AM

if you think that is bad, check out this 240zed:

http://www.voodoo-people.com/~daz/mull/wmv/

(Start with "mull@hugo01")]

EDIT: You need to honestly watch all the videos. After seeing that work, it makes an FC feel like cakewalk, and inspires you to build anything.

TitaniumTT

02-25-2010, 09:26 AM

well it looks like i might have to bring it in pieces....the coworker that owns the mig welder ive been using is being a bit of a dick at the moment....oh well lol

still not a bad thing though, now i can pick your brain and actually do something about how to mount the top hook part

Sure man, no worries, we can weld that up for ya in a heartbeat.

How secksay!

I can has him 4 employment? Dats da m0st aw3shum skillz evar!

NEIN!!! We must keep teh talent like dat in the US! At least till after I get a pro's seal of approval on my repairs

wow what a pain in the ass. you should mail the piece you cut out to him

Or just find him and put a huge billboard across the street from his shop showing off his work for him.

TitaniumTT

02-25-2010, 10:40 AM

In a box full of shitzies too! Lol
nice build and progress so far thou, brian !

Thanks man
Maybe some white powdery material too?

I haven't read through all of the pages, so I'm not sure what color or brand of paint you are using for everything, but I highly recommend Eastwood's 2K Ceramic Chassis Black or even any of their Extreme Chassis stuff. Very Very durable stuff.

Negatory, using a high line PPG epoxy primer for the bare metal, then topcoating with a truck bedliner :D

if you think that is bad, check out this 240zed:

http://www.voodoo-people.com/~daz/mull/wmv/

(Start with "mull@hugo01")]

EDIT: You need to honestly watch all the videos. After seeing that work, it makes an FC feel like cakewalk, and inspires you to build anything.

Good video's actually, from what I saw, haven't made it through all of them yet. A few things that I would've done differently though.

No difference working on that from an FC, there's just a TON more rot in that car. At what point do you scrap a car though? The closet locks for hatch, 1/4" plate welded into the frame rails, and the hinge welded in place and then welded locked..... wow.... And the owner claimed no rust at all.... I hate Ebay sometimes..... most times.

MaczPayne

02-25-2010, 01:40 PM

What a pleasant surprise... I would have never noticed all the cancer if the car was on the ground!

TitaniumTT

02-28-2010, 01:47 AM

Alright, time for the last of 3 major updates for a while....

I left off all pissed off at the amount of rot and what I had to cut out to make the repairs. Ridiculous amounts of garbage and pisspoor repairs from the PO's SO.

So after all was cut out that needed to be cut out, we started rebuilding the chassis.... scary I know... regardless, here is where we started..

The middle of the sammy was replaced and reenforced.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7485&stc=1&d=1267339720

All buttoned up with a new base and bolts for the fenders.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7486&stc=1&d=1267339720

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7487&stc=1&d=1267339720

This shows how much I had to cut out to get it all out. Crazy, Had to completely rebuild about half the seem. Strong as hell, sealed up nicely, I shouldn't have a problem with this chassis for a LONG time. Can't wait to do the same to the FD :rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7488&stc=1&d=1267339720

Even the inner part wasn't safe from the rot. Although it is now.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7489&stc=1&d=1267339720

TitaniumTT

02-28-2010, 01:59 AM

Around the corner..... YES!

Lizard Skin Interior sound control... had a few issues spraying it, don't know why, worked great when we did Alex's.... I think it was too warm and too dry. Had been running the 80,000btu heater for 4 days @ 75*. Everything was dry, and hot, and REALLY dry. I think the LS was just too thick. Either way, it's over, done, and dry... WOOT!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7490&stc=1&d=1267340448

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7491&stc=1&d=1267340448

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7492&stc=1&d=1267340448

And here's the new undercoating on top off all the new metal :rofl:

One coat, covered REALLY well, didn't think a second was needed and I was REALLY anxious to get the tape off and make sure everything was still proper underneath. I like it, great base to start reassembly. A few things left to do and I can begin the reassembly. It'll prob be two weeks before I make any big progress after tomorrow, we're bringing Alex's car into the shop for paint. Still planning on having both @ Deals. Tomorrow's big goal.... er today's :rofl: is to get the fuel cell squared away. Basically completed except for final welding/pressure test. I'm looking forward to it.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7493&stc=1&d=1267340448

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7494&stc=1&d=1267340448

So I'm around the corner.... WOOOOOT!

TitaniumTT

02-28-2010, 02:01 AM

ok, last one :D

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7495&stc=1&d=1267340623

2gslse

02-28-2010, 09:08 AM

All I can say is wow what a diffrence I hope you get both cars together in time to take a break before DGRRX so you can rest.

FC3S Murray

02-28-2010, 12:04 PM

yep.....you did the factory proud. You are the only person I know that performs BETTER being sleep deprived lol. :)

helghast7

02-28-2010, 05:26 PM

haha the car looks crazy Brian,

cant wait to see it in one piece

once again the parts look amazing, im going to have to do before paint and after pics of the stuff and post them up, just like always couldnt be happier with the quality work done

thanks again

TitaniumTT

03-01-2010, 02:30 AM

All I can say is wow what a diffrence I hope you get both cars together in time to take a break before DGRRX so you can rest.

:smilielol5: I got home @~midnight last night, was up calling Alex @ 9:30 this morning, just got back now after a pretty kickass day.... he was fading and my comment was, would you rather wait until April and make a run at my 45hr strait record or just keep working till 1:30 every so often?

Neither, I just want to drive the car

yep.....you did the factory proud. You are the only person I know that performs BETTER being sleep deprived lol. :)

:rofl: Thanks Sean, yeah I think they would be happy. I don't know about better.... I think I just don't let the sleep deprivation bother me until I get into bed..... then I'm just dead to the world for 6-7 hrs...

haha the car looks crazy Brian,

cant wait to see it in one piece

once again the parts look amazing, im going to have to do before paint and after pics of the stuff and post them up, just like always couldnt be happier with the quality work done

thanks again

:lol: Thanks Dave, me neither. Glad you like the parts, I was thinking today.... when you come for the exhaust, if you want, we can powdercoat both the elbow and the battery tray while we're cranking on the exhaust. just a thought. Glad you're happy with them, I was pleased with how they came out as well.

Talk to ya soon my friend.

helghast7

03-01-2010, 04:46 PM

ohhhhh.....hmmmmm...well for that matter ill leave the other 4 ic pipes unpainted aswell....we need to talk prices though, this mans money tree has been withering since i bought the fd, hahaha

Force13b

03-03-2010, 07:28 PM

You are a maniac.......but in a good way

helghast7

03-07-2010, 05:54 PM

broken bolts keep fucking me up :(

TitaniumTT

03-08-2010, 01:05 AM

ohhhhh.....hmmmmm...well for that matter ill leave the other 4 ic pipes unpainted aswell....we need to talk prices though, this mans money tree has been withering since i bought the fd, hahaha

Funny how that happens isn't it. Prob one of the reasons mine remains in storage :rofl:

You are a maniac.......but in a good way

I'm not a maniac, I'm a Madman :smilielol5: You need to com to Deals Tyler. How'd the surgery go?

broken bolts keep fucking me up :(

That sucks dude, I broke one of the welded nuts INSIDE the frame rail tonight. That pissed me off. We were able to get it out, but still, WTF... I thought I was done welding on the chassis, I have 3 more places damnit.

Your seats will be done in the next two days. Alex and I traded cars, mine is hibernating at his place, under her fitted cover, next to his abomination of an engine, and his showed at my shop today for paint. Here we come DGRRX!!! WOOT!!!!

sickofpistons

03-08-2010, 01:52 AM

i just thought I would ask, is that rocker warped (OLD JACK POINT MAYBE) or dented?

TitaniumTT

03-08-2010, 02:06 AM

It is, I mentioned it earlier, and it's not nearly as bad as it looks int he picture. To fix properly would require repainting places that will be seen with no breaks over the car, repainting where I cut out was fine becuase I could use the seam sealer as a tape line and it's behind the fender so it'll never be seen anyway. FWIW the paint matched perfectly, and you can't see the tape line, where as fixing that, you can't break it meaning the entire car would be subject to clearcoat. Something Im not willing to do right now. Next winter probably. Wherever that damage came from it was there when I bought the car, I think the PO ran over a curb based on the damage that I cut out, repaired, what was under it, and the large scratch running down the center of it, it wasn't jacked, it was hit and dragged.

sickofpistons

03-08-2010, 02:15 AM

Wished I could afford to repaint mine! ha dont see that in the near future. Any new progress? What all do you plan to do ignition, and fuel wise, didnt see that?

helghast7

03-08-2010, 11:35 PM

Funny how that happens isn't it. Prob one of the reasons mine remains in storage :rofl:

yea no kidding lol, its ok though, im enjoying every second working on it

That sucks dude, I broke one of the welded nuts INSIDE the frame rail tonight. That pissed me off. We were able to get it out, but still, WTF... I thought I was done welding on the chassis, I have 3 more places damnit.

yea i had one of those..i ended up punching the welded nut out and tapping the frame lol, it was the only thing i could think of doing since it was too far in the frame to nut and bolt, ill show you when i bring the car lol

and whats even worse is all three bolts holding the fans to my radiator are seized, one broke, i cant get them out and i have no clue how to remove them without fucking up the radiator...whats worse....i know for a fact one of my fans is on its way out...and pb blaster is doing nothing ..my only hope...the fan healed itself after sitting all those months :302:

btw...can aluminum handle direct heat(torch)? my last hope is to heat it up to losen it

Your seats will be done in the next two days. Alex and I traded cars, mine is hibernating at his place, under her fitted cover, next to his abomination of an engine, and his showed at my shop today for paint. Here we come DGRRX!!! WOOT!!!!

thats kickass, it just so happens ill be breathing life into her this weekend :)

what perfect timing, i love how everything is working out so far

TitaniumTT

03-09-2010, 01:56 AM

yea no kidding lol, its ok though, im enjoying every second working on it

:rofl: Yeah, first thing I said when we wheeled the FD in was, DAMN, she looks good in here..... fuck your paint Alex, time to work on the FD :smilielol5:

yea i had one of those..i ended up punching the welded nut out and tapping the frame lol, it was the only thing i could think of doing since it was too far in the frame to nut and bolt, ill show you when i bring the car lol

Nice... great way to fix it! There's a co called Fastenal, they have one time use nutserts that I'm going to try on mine. If it fails, I can get to it and pull it out and try to weld something in from the backside.

and whats even worse is all three bolts holding the fans to my radiator are seized, one broke, i cant get them out and i have no clue how to remove them without fucking up the radiator...whats worse....i know for a fact one of my fans is on its way out...and pb blaster is doing nothing ..my only hope...the fan healed itself after sitting all those months :302:

Awesome, glad I bought a southern car :rofl: At least I have the luxury of being able torch, cut grind to my hearts content and then repaint everything.

I'm actually thinking flat black now :reddevil:

btw...can aluminum handle direct heat(torch)? my last hope is to heat it up to losen it

It can, the only problem is it gives almost ZERO warning before it melts awayand falls apart so you need to be REALLY careful.

thats kickass, it just so happens ill be breathing life into her this weekend :)

what perfect timing, i love how everything is working out so far

SAHWEET!!! Do you think you'll be able to swing up Tuesday or Wednesday to pick them up? There's a ton of weather coming our way Thurs-Sun and I want to leave the FD out of Le Annex Part Duex so you can sit in them before you take them home incase there are some adjustments to be made. As Alex told you tonight, the range of motion is limited because of how wide they are..... they are so 'effin comfy though! All three of us are about the same hieght/build and where they are, they're great. As far back as they can go is too far for me to be comfy. I can't wait to get started on that car.

TitaniumTT

03-09-2010, 02:03 AM

Wished I could afford to repaint mine! ha dont see that in the near future. Any new progress? What all do you plan to do ignition, and fuel wise, didnt see that?

Yup, I spent close to $3k on product for my paint job

Fuel is going to be handles by 725/2000 (yes, two thousand) ID injectors. Right now ignition will be a secret Bosch inductive coil unless it makes less power than one of the other coils that I'll be testing. I'm not going to drop the coin on a CDI system unless it makes BIG power, but I just don't see it happening on a rotary at my torque levels.

NeatoCheetoFB

03-09-2010, 12:50 PM

:seeya: peekaboo!

helghast7

03-09-2010, 03:49 PM

damn...thats a bummer..the earliest i can get there is friday night

WE3RX7

03-10-2010, 06:09 PM

I expected to see pics by now of it back on the ground, lol.... damn you and working on other cars! Seriously though, this will be the best deals gap ever if you wrap the car up and get it down there... I'm also pretty exited to see the infamous alex and his car...

TitaniumTT

03-11-2010, 02:26 AM

:seeya: peekaboo!

I SEE YOU!! :seeya: Now shedap and make plans for Deals!

damn...thats a bummer..the earliest i can get there is friday night

:rofl: Couldn't resist could you ;) Get them in yet?

I expected to see pics by now of it back on the ground, lol.... damn you and working on other cars! Seriously though, this will be the best deals gap ever if you wrap the car up and get it down there... I'm also pretty exited to see the infamous alex and his car...

weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllllll llllllllllllllllll, she was on the ground, rolled onto a trailer, and now under a cover, back up in the air in Alex's garage for the next two weeks.

soooooooo, the last round of pics for a few weeks.

Ok, tomorrow... not loading for some reason

TitaniumTT

03-11-2010, 09:20 AM

Lets try this again shall we....

The start of my fuel cell.......

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7549&stc=1&d=1268317059

Bottom of the surge tank all welded up. 7" Diameter tube, will hold about 5 qts when finished :D

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7550&stc=1&d=1268317059

Expansion tank for Alex. So pretty, I just had to get a pic of it :lol:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7551&stc=1&d=1268317059

Interior of my car after the Lizard Skin. Time to start putting things back in.... YAY!!!!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7552&stc=1&d=1268317059

Harness for the MoTeC. I love these harnesses, everyone should have one...... hint hint...

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7553&stc=1&d=1268317059

TitaniumTT

03-11-2010, 09:32 AM

The MoTeC and the TCMux mounted up. Two things piss me off about this pic -
1) no one will ever see the billet mounts after this pic unless something goes wrong (So everyone look, and drool a little, and ohhhh and ahhhh for me.... please)
2) the sticker on the ECU is upside down. It's driving me insane

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7554&stc=1&d=1268317967

I decided to get rid of the old Prestige Alarm. It served me well, lasted about 10 years before it started acting a little hookey. So I replaced it with a Python remote start unit with a 2-way remote, 1-mile range, all the goodies. This is what it looks like AFTER I removed about 1/2 the wires. Most people just cut them short and tape them up...... I de-pin them from the harness and save the entire wire, JIC I want to add it back in later down the road.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7555&stc=1&d=1268317967

And there is is all buttoned up with the power distribution for the MoTeC, the AIM digital dash, the coils and the solenoids. So neat, so sexy. THe only thing missing is the main distribution and 70A sealed relay which should be here any day now. That was a SEXY piece. Just had to have it.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7556&stc=1&d=1268317967

Here is the Front Harness. Had to add the wires for the ABS sensors - IF THEY EVERY GET HERE, a few wires for the MoTeC, power going back and forth, alarm wires, etc etc etc etc etc...... such a PITA. I need a 12-14' long workbench at my next shop. This 7'ers aren't cutting it anymore.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7557&stc=1&d=1268317967

I have a battery disconnnect switch in my car. GREAT little piece of equipment. THe only problem is, when you kill the battery, you kill everything, unless you rewire some shite. Things that you want with constant power even when the battery is off would be, radio mem, alarm, power windows, power door locks, remote trunk release, maybe something else if you want. But instead of adding an AUX fuse block, as I've done in the past, why not tap into the stock block and make use of some unused spots? This is wiring sex right here.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7558&stc=1&d=1268317967

TitaniumTT

03-11-2010, 09:43 AM

Here is the plate that I built to mount the M820, the TCMux, the DMC-D's, and keep all the wiring nice and neat. By all the wiring I mean the Front harness, the RCA cables for the stereo, all the metripack connectors for the alarm, the M820, basically everything up in that little corner.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7559&stc=1&d=1268318558

Re-wrapped front harness. Made ALOT of mods to this eff'ing thing. Had to run a bunch of wires for the M820 to interface with the car. ABS sensor wires. There are a bunch of wires all coiled up that head into the dash for things that I've added, turn on for the relays for some power, constant power for the radio and alarm..... blah blah blah. The thing about wiring...... it SUCKS. But I love doing it when it works the first time, never fails, and looks sexy. By wiring looking sexy, I mean it DISAPPEARS!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7560&stc=1&d=1268318558

And one just for you Bill ;) A pic on the ground. She lasted for about 5 minutes berfore we rolled her up on the trailer, then I gave her a bath, and put her under a cover for a few weeks.....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7561&stc=1&d=1268318558

helghast7

03-11-2010, 04:16 PM

Force13b

03-11-2010, 04:47 PM

I'm not a maniac, I'm a Madman :smilielol5: You need to com to Deals Tyler. How'd the surgery go?

Next year for sure. Surgery went great only problem was i had to pay a big chunk of it since my Insurance decided they weren't going to cover it, i'm working on getting my money back out of them. DGRRX is on my birthday and i planned a diving drip :icon_tup:

vex

03-11-2010, 05:02 PM

B, do you have any pics of how you mounted your digital dash?

I toying with the idea of picking up one from ludwig in a package deal with a haltech, but I'd like to see how you mounted it (as I'd prefer to mount it to the steering wheel)... but if you mounted it in the dash then I may have to save money and forgo getting a digital dash.

limbar85

03-11-2010, 06:20 PM

A+ on your aluminum welding! You've definitely come a long way since you started and it looks great now.

Dazed and Rotarded

03-11-2010, 09:21 PM

jesus brian , the tank's killer! BTW , have you talked your boy into ditching that LS he has ? :rofl: he's gotta let go and see the light!!

NeatoCheetoFB

03-12-2010, 11:34 AM

I SEE YOU!! :seeya: Now shedap and make plans for Deals!

No can do...I have an exam that Friday :(

TitaniumTT

03-12-2010, 06:35 PM

nope, just couldnt resist...i said screw it and moved stuff around just to make it there...

and sadly no i havent put them in yet, wed. and today ive been busy with prior engagements and was unable to work on the car at all....tomorrow im gona see if i can button up the last little things and turn her on....rain or shine

:rofl: I know, I got outside and Alex made a comment like, I guess he got excited ;)

Weather is killing us right now. Be busted ass to get a bunch of shit done so wwe wouldn't need to be outside for a few days. Still though, it's nice to have the option but we won't till Monday or Tuesday. It's just nasty out.

Next year for sure. Surgery went great only problem was i had to pay a big chunk of it since my Insurance decided they weren't going to cover it, i'm working on getting my money back out of them. DGRRX is on my birthday and i planned a diving drip :icon_tup:

Sweet man! Glad to hear it. Sucks about the INS though. THey always pull that crap. sucks that it was after the fact. Usually they wait until the surgery is schedualed, and you're all set, then they drop the bomb. Happened to my buddy a few months ago. He was all set for an ACL replacement and 2 days before hand they denied the whole claim. Took three months to get it straigtened out.

You've got to make it next year Tyler. You should drive out too ;)

B, do you have any pics of how you mounted your digital dash?

I toying with the idea of picking up one from ludwig in a package deal with a haltech, but I'd like to see how you mounted it (as I'd prefer to mount it to the steering wheel)... but if you mounted it in the dash then I may have to save money and forgo getting a digital dash.

I gotta tell you T, I LOVE the dash. Its fantastic. I would definately go with it. I mounted it in a rather different way. Many years ago I replaced my stick dash with some Autometer gauges. I built a dash out of steel (I make them out of AL as well) to replace the stock dash. The Autometers drop right in. Works well but real estate is limited. For the AIM dash I built the same basic dash with a few tweaks to accomodate the AIM. So it bolts into the factory location, is at the factory depth and is just AWESOME. The programability of it is unsurpassed, I love the warning lights, the fact that you can display so much, toggle back and forth between channels. Lap times, mileage, speed, tach, adjustable shift points, warning lights for anything that you wany, it's just one of the greatest things.

Mounting it to the steering wheel would be a challenge, but certainly not impossible. Do it man, you won't regret it.

I'm playing with the idea of putting on in the FD, although I don't really think it will look as good. I may get some other digital display for the the FD mounted under the radio and replace the factory gauges with something a bit more accurate. Haven't decided yet. THe FD's dash is just gorgeous though.

Did I mention the warning lights and to DO IT!

TitaniumTT

03-12-2010, 06:37 PM

A+ on your aluminum welding! You've definitely come a long way since you started and it looks great now.

Thanks man. I was pleased with those beads :D

jesus brian , the tank's killer! BTW , have you talked your boy into ditching that LS he has ? :rofl: he's gotta let go and see the light!!

Thanks Chris, I've been trying for a long time now. I make about a dozen comments a day about the thing, but he won't let go. Last night even he said something about the dark side being strong, and that he's confused that I haven't joined, seeing as how I am pure eveil

No can do...I have an exam that Friday :(

Take it early, you know you want to ;)

helghast7

03-12-2010, 09:20 PM

FML part three:

my rear trailing plug threads are jacked, it murdered my one plug trying to get it in...im praying i have a tap that big to repair the threads

and i was literally seconds away from fireing it up

on a side not... i have another minor little FML... i went to crank the engine to let the oil circulate...i get out the car and see light in the rear...apparently i connected something wrong which makes my reverse lights light when im not in reverse hahaha

oh btw I installed the seats earlier and just had to sit in them with all the new stuff i have in my cockpit.......it was one of the greatest feelings ever :)

project86

03-13-2010, 01:40 AM

im jealous of all your cool tools...

helghast7

03-13-2010, 08:16 PM

well if its not one thing its another, fixed the spark plug issue....but now i cant get her to fire up....for some reason the starter isnt getting the juice to spin the engine fast enough i think......either that or the starter is on its way out

idk....this rain sucks, makes it near impossible to work on the car

helghast7

03-17-2010, 07:26 PM

She lives!!!!!

FC3S Murray

03-22-2010, 04:14 PM

So any updates Brian?

I am excited to see some more progress :)

helghast7

03-22-2010, 04:30 PM

you know hes making killer progress when hes not online

FC3S Murray

03-22-2010, 05:26 PM

for sure lol :)

helghast7

03-22-2010, 07:34 PM

just thought i would put up this quickie, seats came out amazing just like always thanks again brian
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn58/Helghast7/My%20FD/Photo0135.jpg

TitaniumTT

03-22-2010, 08:30 PM

Looks awesome Dave, glad you likey.

I WISH I was making killer progress on my car, truth be told I haven't touched it for a week now. Been working solely on Alex's car and a big side job that I've got. I'm basically screwed becuase I have no parts. Waiting on coils, injectors, some sort of wheel speed sensor, and my trans and rear end.........

I'm taking a trip to my guru on Wednesday with hubs, reluctors, and rotors in tow to lock down a custom solution to the wheel speed sensor thing. I don't understand what everyone is bitching about regarding these ABS sensors. I have a rear swingarm with the sensor and wheel in it and when I went to pull it today, the fucker fell out. No-one can get them out and mine jumped off the hub at me. I had to swat it down......

So it looks like I'll be building my own reluctor wheels/modifying the stockers and going with a hall effect sensor. Sigh.....

So I doubt I'll have any updates until the end of the weekend, IFF I'm lucky.

helghast7

03-22-2010, 09:37 PM

yikes...well im sure you and your favorite drink will have plenty of time together, and you will pull it off

btw, when do you want the parts?

WE3RX7

03-23-2010, 08:34 AM

Even the mighty take weeks off :) I'm sure you'll get the car back together. I pretty much gave up on the remote idea of having anything done until after dgrr, lol....

TitaniumTT

03-23-2010, 09:40 AM

yikes...well im sure you and your favorite drink will have plenty of time together, and you will pull it off

btw, when do you want the parts?

:rofl: Yeah, we're saving all the caffine and making a count right before Deals to see how much Mt Dew and Red Bull was consumed over the course of these 2 builds.

Which parts again? Meh mind ain't what it used to be :rofl:

Even the mighty take weeks off :) I'm sure you'll get the car back together. I pretty much gave up on the remote idea of having anything done until after dgrr, lol....

I wish I had taken weeks off, working just as hard, more allnighters, just not making any progress on my own car. I need parts. I haven't gotten any of the parts that I've been waiting for in weeks, driving me INSANE!!!!!!!!!!!!:banghead:

helghast7

03-23-2010, 04:05 PM

the hatch, diff, and door handle..i think that was it

WE3RX7

03-24-2010, 07:19 AM

How'd alex's ride turn out so far - keeping that one off the internets for now?

TitaniumTT

03-24-2010, 07:30 AM

She's in color. I told his ass to get on this forum and make a build thread. He's too busy stroking his pistons.

TitaniumTT

03-24-2010, 03:02 PM

.........

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7624&stc=1&d=1269461144

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7625&stc=1&d=1269461144

project86

03-24-2010, 04:13 PM

youre workin on your fd right now ya?

TitaniumTT

03-24-2010, 04:35 PM

Negatory, that's a pic of my FC. Firzen here is the man, that is all. We're trading spindles hopefully in my quest for TC. I found an off the shelf sensor that drops right the fuck in. RIGHT THE FUCK IN, jsut need wheels now

Turbo II Rotor

03-24-2010, 06:31 PM

helghast7

03-24-2010, 07:25 PM

youre workin on your fd right now ya?

boooo

FD uses double wishbone suspension in the front

brian is ignoring me :( lol

WE3RX7

03-24-2010, 08:52 PM

I too have a set of spindles off an abs model... just sitting here, lol..

project86

03-24-2010, 11:35 PM

boooo

FD uses double wishbone suspension in the front

brian is ignoring me :( lol

im sure that was a fail on my part... i didnt really LOOK at the picture. i was just thinkin back to when he was showin the pics of the one he picked up and thought he was workin on it... my bad:(

helghast7

03-24-2010, 11:42 PM

lol no worries man, we cant know everything, its one of the reasons were on these forums to begin with

TitaniumTT

03-24-2010, 11:54 PM

If you needed spindles all you had to do was ask. I have 7 or 8 pairs, a couple are ABS with factory sensors. Don't know if stock sensors will work with your Racelogic(?) though.

Protip: Are you doing wheel bearings while you're in there? If so cut some disks out of 3/16 plate and weld them to the races and hammer them out from the back. I can get the disk diameters if you want them.

:rofl: Seriously!!! Scott I posted classified ad's here and on the evil foru, BEGGING for ABS sensors :smilielol5: I will need another pair though. And I'm plumbing a Hall effect signal strait into the MoTeC via custom sensor and I'm looking into getting a custom trigger wheel waterjetted out.

I'll definately take another set of ABS spindles though. I'll hit you up, I MIGHT be passing through your hood on Sat when i pick up my trans

TitaniumTT

03-24-2010, 11:55 PM

brian is ignoring me :( lol

Huh???? Whatchu talkin 'bout?

firzen

03-25-2010, 12:49 AM

Just saw this- I can work with those.

TitaniumTT

03-25-2010, 12:58 AM

Yeah, sorry about that man, I dunno why I hosted them here, but didn't put them in the PM.... been one of those days. Well, yesterday was one of those days :rofl:

classicauto

03-25-2010, 08:05 AM

Protip: Are you doing wheel bearings while you're in there? If so GRAB SOME RANDOM BOLTS and weld them to the races and hammer them out from the back. I can get the disk diameters if you want them.

Fixord :o11:

Force13b

03-25-2010, 06:24 PM

Sweet man! Glad to hear it. Sucks about the INS though. THey always pull that crap. sucks that it was after the fact. Usually they wait until the surgery is schedualed, and you're all set, then they drop the bomb. Happened to my buddy a few months ago. He was all set for an ACL replacement and 2 days before hand they denied the whole claim. Took three months to get it straigtened out.

You've got to make it next year Tyler. You should drive out too ;)

It's getting worked out slowly but it is.

I've already done that drive a few times. Never in the FD that would take dedication lol. We'll see what happens next year car should be 400hpish by then.

helghast7

03-25-2010, 06:46 PM

you asked me which parts i was talking about and i told you lol

TitaniumTT

03-25-2010, 08:21 PM

Ah, I'm sorry man.... talking with Alex, we're not sure :rofl: Getting the glass back is gonna be tough. i told him to drive to you with no glass on his car.... he didn't really like that.

Honestly, I don't know. Was supposed to go to Daves to get my trans on Sat, thought it would be a good time then, but that appears not to be happening now so honestly, I'm not sure...... Do you need them gon e anytime soon?

helghast7

03-25-2010, 08:56 PM

nah not really, just wanted to make sure you didnt forget about them

its a bummer about daves shop, i heard hes running into some setbacks, which sucks because im about 150 miles away from my 500 mark...so im just about ready for a tune

TitaniumTT

03-25-2010, 09:38 PM

Yeah, I spoke to him today, I feel really bad, I wish there was something that I could do to help him out. I'll hopefully be out there Saturday, probab Tues to get my new 6spd WOOT!!!!!!! Machinist came through! Finished it up today!

Frankenwankel - 323ftlbs torque, 405 RWHP, Sequential Twin Turbo 6spd....... yeah baby...

helghast7

03-25-2010, 10:49 PM

yea i gotta give him a call, need to at least get an idea of when is good for him to stop by for a tune, plus i need to ask him about some future ideas i have for some future projects lol

on another note i would like to go over what exactly is going to happen about these parts and my exhaust being welded, im not in any rush but i would like to figure out how everything is going to work.....ummm...

ohh i knew i was forgetting something....whats going on with the stickers?? now that the car is running i wana show off who did all my fancy welds

Roen

03-26-2010, 08:45 AM

boo.....TC????

Why? Use your foot!

TitaniumTT

03-26-2010, 09:07 AM

yea i gotta give him a call, need to at least get an idea of when is good for him to stop by for a tune, plus i need to ask him about some future ideas i have for some future projects lol

Best thing to do is get in touch with him, I feel horrible, wish I could help, offered up a room for him & Kim @ DGRRX, you should try to convince him of the same.

on another note i would like to go over what exactly is going to happen about these parts and my exhaust being welded, im not in any rush but i would like to figure out how everything is going to work.....ummm...

This upcoming week is do or die for me so I'm expecting 14-16 hrs a day to be devoted to the FC. I should have a ton of parts in Monday..... My shop is setup for painting but we can fit your FD in there and get the work done there in a matter of a few hours. Poweder Coating and all. I would say sometime the week of 4/5 we'll have the time. So I guess next week/end we'll figure out exactely when works.

ohh i knew i was forgetting something....whats going on with the stickers?? now that the car is running i wana show off who did all my fancy welds

:rofl: Thanks, & I dunno, as far as I know, the files are ready and Alex is shopping printing shops. We'll have 'em in time for Deals for sure.

If you've got 350 miles on her already, how are the seats treating you?

boo.....TC????

Why? Use your foot!

I've gone through my datalogs after some tight auto-x's and my TP was always hanging around 30-40%, and I would hit boost ONLY on some of short straits, most of the time I was in vac. TC will end that.

Foot control is fine if you're driving a 176rwhp FC or a 105 fwGp honduh.... not so effective when boost builds as quick and torque is as low as is with my car. Tires are also a big factor, I need better ones. The new RT615k's are out and they ain't cheap..... I dunno what I'm going to do about tires.... I don't even know what rims to put them on. I think I may rock the Works for street duty... dunno... prob make a poll to see which the majority likes more.

vex

03-26-2010, 09:39 AM

Force13b

03-26-2010, 10:23 AM

Foot control is fine if you're driving a 176rwhp FC or a 105 fwGp honduh.... not so effective when boost builds as quick and torque is as low as is with my car. Tires are also a big factor, I need better ones. The new RT615k's are out and they ain't cheap..... I dunno what I'm going to do about tires.... I don't even know what rims to put them on. I think I may rock the Works for street duty... dunno... prob make a poll to see which the majority likes more.

fwGp :lol: GO gerbil power GO!

TitaniumTT

03-26-2010, 02:43 PM

B,

You know Foot control is the only TC you need. :p

Oh yeah, I got my radiator, steel line, and tools in a few days ago. I may be doing some welding this weekend if the weather's right. A much better mounting scheme in the works, plus ducting, and some bulk head fittings still need to be done. But I think my plan will actually make you slightly jealous.

I demand sketchs and details...... NOAW

fwGp :lol: GO gerbil power GO!

:smilielol5: Exactely..... insights don't make hp, they make me cry with laughter.... silly little cars.

UPDATE:

OMFG!!!!!!!!!!!! PARTS CAME IN!!!!!!!!!!!! My sensors showed today, I got 2/3's of the quotes back for the waterjetted trigger wheels, delivery time I was told is not going to be an issue, Firzen is the man and overnighted the new ABS knuckles to me so tomorrow the plan is to template the triggers up so I can give the go ahead on the wheels first thing Monday and have a TC system squared away by the end of the week.

Should be picking up the trans/rear early next week, injectors/coils should be here Monday, now all I need is time :rofl:

Sensors and a MoTeC engineers personal rotary ignition system..... mmmmmmm :drool: Can't wait to see how CDI matchs up with inductive on the dyno. SOOOOO looking forward to this test.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7638&stc=1&d=1269632560

helghast7

03-26-2010, 03:44 PM

proz07

03-26-2010, 03:44 PM

Sensors and a MoTeC engineers personal rotary ignition system..... mmmmmmm :drool: Can't wait to see how CDI matchs up with inductive on the dyno. SOOOOO looking forward to this test.

im looking forward to the results on this as word on the street the inductive gives better low rpm drivability from the 'long burn' but the CDI is better up top under pressure and fluids. specifically igniting high amounts of meth/water :icon_tup:

z

helghast7

03-26-2010, 04:14 PM

oh almost forgot, seats are amazing, like im getting a great big hug from my car, i cant wait for the engine to get tuned so i can really blast around the turns to fully test them out :)

TitaniumTT

03-26-2010, 05:23 PM

hmmm interesting, we still need to talk figures though i dont even know if i can afford everything yet, i might be forced to pass on the powdercoating till after deals

but like i said, for the actual work im not so worried about it, i know things will come together just like they always do

im more worried about prices, its the thing that sucks and forces me to budget..... :( i hate budgeting

I wouldn't worry about the powdercoating prices. Alex and I talked it over. Since everything is in house, the price will probably surprise you.

oh almost forgot, seats are amazing, like im getting a great big hug from my car, i cant wait for the engine to get tuned so i can really blast around the turns to fully test them out :)

Awesome, glad to hear it. Be careful. The first thing that I noticed about those seats over my Corbeaus was you cannot feel speed nearly as well. I got on the highway, popped 5th and just started cruising one night, very few cars on the rd, thought to myself, "Why is everyone driving like a blind old lady?" Looked down and I was going 115mph :rofl:

im looking forward to the results on this as word on the street the inductive gives better low rpm drivability from the 'long burn' but the CDI is better up top under pressure and fluids. specifically igniting high amounts of meth/water :icon_tup:

z

Me too. There's alot of us that feel that the inductive nature of the spark will lead to a better burn, more torque etc etc over a CDI on a properly tuned engine. The rotor speed is just so much slower than that of a piston it just seems logical. Like you said though, when you get to much higher chamber pressures, the inductive may not me able to light it off. This is where CDI comes into play. I don't think my engine is at that line where I'll see a benefit, but this is what the testing is all about.

Unfortuneately, there is no water/meth on the FC. It's in the plan for the FD, but setup in a way that I haven't seen a rotary done before. I'm sure I'll be back on the dyno testing a CDI setup vs the winning inductive coil on that engine as well. Looking for 500wheel on that bad ride.....

Time will tell..... assuming I keep getting parts in when they're supposed to be here.

-Brian