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Old 02-27-2008, 03:58 PM   #1
Chadwick
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Default 93 BB base FD build-up

My car started out as a one owner bone stock 93 brilliant black base model with the tan leather option. I purchased the car in 1997 and it remained bone stock until 1999 when the starter ring separated from the flywheel and I found that a lightweight aluminum flywheel was cheaper then replacing the stock one.

Around the same time I got into autocrossing with the SCCA. As luck would have it, the lightweight flywheel kicked me out of stock class and they put me in ASP. I ran my first 6 events on street tires and thoroughly got my ass kicked in my basically stock car. Like all new people to autocross, I was sure the car was the problem and not my driving so I began the upgrade path to get the car fully prepared to ASP rules. It took me about 6 months and a fair amount of cash to make the transition to a fully prepped car. Of course that was when I learned that my performance problem might just be the driver . Here is a break down of the mods the car went through back then:
Koni Sports converted to Coil over’s and double adjustable by TriPoint engineering.
580# front, 340# rear springs
Tripoint Engineering Front Adjustable Speedway sway bar
Tripoint Engineering sway bar reinforcements w/ bronze bushings
Racingbeat adjustable rear bar
CCW classic 17x10 7.5” backspace 3 piece wheels
Unobtainium 6/6 nylon bushing kit
M2 Carbon fiber air box
Jacobs Rotary Pack ignition amplifier
RP dual post coil
Custom stock mount intercooler w/duct
M2 Stainless downpipe
M2 Stainless midpipe
Pettit Stainless Catback
Greddy Elbow
Odyssey PC680 battery
Corbeau Clubman race seat
Pettit column mount boost gauge
SR Motorsports underdrive pulley kit
R1 Wing
R1 front spoiler
R1 dual oil coolers
Picture from that time frame:



In 2005 they change the rules for the class and I added a few more things, some of which I already owned for years but couldn’t use because of the rules:
Apexi PowerFC
Datalogit
Greddy Profec B
Picture from 2006



My current build up is moving the car from ASP to SM2, which is pretty much wide open as far as rules go. I’ve always wanted the 99 front bumper on the car, which I couldn’t do under the Street Prepared rules so it pushed me to move classes.

Engine build

My goal with the engine build up is to achieve maximum low end torque. In as such I have stayed away from changing the timing of the ports. I’ve spent hours talking to other builders about porting and all that I talked to agree that street and race ports move the power band higher up the RPM range. So my goal was to increase flow without changing timing. Rob at Pineapple racing was the most helpful in me determining the best way to accomplish my goal. Most of my port work involved cleaning up the trash left behind by the casting process and machining of the ports. Hours were spent working on the bowl shape and maximizing the air flow through the runners. Overall I’m confident this is the right path, but only the dyno will tell if I have accomplished my goal.

Secondary Port:

Primary port: The white dust spots are left over from the grinding grease I use during porting. It will wipe right off.

Gasket matched intake runners:




If you look closely at the porting, you will see some areas are polished and some areas left ruff. I believe that you should polish before fuel delivery and leave it some what textured after. The reason behind this is to keep the fuel atomized as much as possible when it is delivered to the combustion chamber.

A good example is the last picture with the gasket in place. Notice how much brighter the primary intake runners (middle) look in the picture compared to the secondary runners (outside). The reason is fuel is delivered to the secondary runners from the lower intake manifold so they have not been polished. The primary runners are polished right up to where the fuel is delivered inside the intermediate housing.

I’m not talking a huge difference between them, just enough to keep the gas from sheeting down the side and entering the housing in drips.


I’m also using 9.7:1 compression rotors and an RX8 eccentric shaft. I picked the 9.7 rotors because of the extra grunt they will give me down low and the fact that they weigh the same as the stock 9.0:1 rotors. The RX8 eccentric shaft is a direct replacement for the 13B-REW but weighs .4 lbs less. I should note that the RX8 shaft’s journal diameter is .0003 less than a stock 13b-rew eccentric shaft. For me this is not a problem as I wanted the extra bearing clearance for running the engine past 8k rpm.

I sent the whole rotating assembly off to Racing Beat to have balanced, I want to use CLR but Carlos was swapped with work and I couldn’t live with the turnaround time. Just for your information all 13B-REW counter weights do not weigh the same. Every one of them are balanced at the factory to the actual assembly they are in, so if you have to change out any of your original rotating parts for any reason, you should have them rebalanced. In my case this time I had to buy new front and rear counter weights as both were to light to balance out correctly with the “D” weight rotors I sent.

Balanced rotating assembly:

Close up of balancing holes


Exhaust, Upper intake and Lower intake manifold after ceramic coating.


One of the weak points with the stock intake is the unequal runners of the lower intake manifold and the turbulence caused by the emissions components on both the lower and upper intake manifolds. Because of this I choose to use the Xcessive Manufacturing lower intake manifold and a JDM upper intake manifold. I consider using a 13B-RE upper intake manifold as they are reported to increase torque but I decided not to at this time because of the extra fabrication required. The Xcessive LIM is a work of art; the intake runners are of equal length and it doesn’t have any of the stock LIM oddities. The wall thickness is also an improvement and will allow for some very generous porting. Note that the stock LIM is the cause of the front rotor being lean at idle and the rear being lean under boost. It is the most likely reason most FD’s blow the rear Apex seals even when the air fuels look safe.

Shot of the irons, housings and assembled rotors sitting on the bench:


Front rotor and housing installed, putting a thin layer of Hylomar on the rotor housing:


Rear rotor and housing installed, again laying a thin layer of Hylomar on the housing (almost caught Brians face in this shot :


Almost complete short block:


Brian (aka Wilson) setting the torque on the engine studs:




Test fitting the Turbo with the XS LIM, had to modify the oil and water supply lines to clear the side of the LIM:






Porting the head:



Build completed:



Sneak peek at the airpump deletion pulley I'm fabricating:



Engine in car:


Fitting intercooler piping:


Install almost complete:






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93 RX7 SSM (Soon to be IBM and a daily driver)
05 Silverado Z71
08 Mini Cooper
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Last edited by Chadwick; 09-03-2008 at 11:10 AM.. Reason: added content
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Old 02-29-2008, 10:19 AM   #2
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Ready for first startup:


Engine is running, adjusting fuel pressure:


First startup smoke cloud:




Using an Xcessive LIM with 99 or stock twins:

Getting the 99 twins to fit with the Xcessive LIM took a little bit of work. There are several things that don’t allow them to bolt right up. Here is a list of modifications that need to be made:
Oil and Water supply lines need to be bent to clear the front side of the LIM
Primary turbo compressor housing needs to be cocked about 5 degrees out for the piping to fit. Fortunately the Pre-Control and Waste Gate actuators do not need modification if you don’t over do the rotation.
Oil fill neck needs to be heated and bent forward about ½” (thanks Rich for this tip).
UIM front bracket needs to be bent about ½” towards the front of the motor and the slot lowered (I did this with a dremel)
Secondary turbo needs about ¼” shaved off the compressor housing to avoid contacting the LIM.
Heat shield needs to be hammered in on the back of the turbo to avoid contact with the LIM.
Vacuum hard lines need to be bent to avoid the new position of the oil and water turbo supply lines.
Current build:

Engine & Drive train
13B-REW
Rx8 eccentric shaft
9.7:1 rotors (89-91 NA) balanced and lightened
Rx8 front and rear Stationary gears and bearings
13B-REW front and rear counter weights
Balanced and clearance for 9k+ rpm
Ported intake and exhaust without changing timing
Port matched intake runners
Xccessive Manufacturing lower intake manifold
JDM upper intake manifold
Oil and Water mods
Re-medy water pump
550cc primary injectors
1680cc secondary injectors (RX7-Store fuel rail)
Garfinkle Oil pan brace
Garfinkle torque brace
Smurf engine mounts
Mazdaspeed power plant frame
FJO injector driver
FuelLab 525 Series FPR
SR Motorsports wide belt underdrive pulley kit
99 spec twin turbo /w ported wastegate
RP Trailing arms
RP toe links
4.77 Knightsport ring and pinion
Kaaz 1.5 LSD
Fuel pressure regulator mounting (Brian (aka Wilson) is a master at making custom mounting brackets)


Old school jacobs!:


Mazdaspeed Power Plant Frame:


Battery Relocation: Similar to this write up , but I use a PC680 battery and a 3 constant hot, 4 ignition switched fuse block.


Harness: Brian and I routed the FJO and Dual EGT wiring through the stock harness. The FJO injector driver will be mounted behind the kick plate with the PowerFC.



Body:
99 front bumper (F138-50-031A-AA)
99 bumper reinforcement (F138-50-070B)
99 undertray (F140-56-1B0A)
99 brake ducts (F138-43-63XB, F138-43-64XB)
99 air guide (F138-50-A21)
99 combination lights (F138-51-060B, F138-51-070B)
99 front chin spoiler (F138-51-9L1B, F138-51-9K1B)
99 rear tail lights (F132-51-180, F132-51-170)
RE replica oil cooler ducts
Feed replica side skirts
Mazdaspeed replica hood
APR GT 2 custom 2 element wing /mounted using stock R1 holes
Flying “M” badges front and rear (F141-51-731A, F138-51-731)
Test fitting 99 bumper


Test fitting 315 rear tires w/ 10" wheels:



315 tires mounted on wheels with new outer lip test fit.



Brian and Andrew taking measurements to mount the dual element wing. They are both Mechanical Engineers so I think I’m in good hands.:


Installing lower wing element:


Stantions after powder coating (Thanks Andrew!)


Fitting second wing element and side plates



Interior
Corbeau FX1 composite seat w dual lock slider (Driver)
Corbeau Clubman /stock rail (passenger)
Lilliput in dash Carputer
Lilliput 7” retractable in dash touch LCD
Tripower gauge pod
LC1 wideband w/ XD-16 gauge
Pineapple Dual EGT gauge
Pettit colum mount boost gauge
Wiring up all the gauges and carputer before:


After:




Carputer and LCD screen, ran into two issues here. One is that there is a support that runs 6.5 inches behind the radio dins which I had to cut out with a dremel as the carputer and LCD are both 7.5" long. The other is the LCD hits the fan speed dial and does not tilt back far enough. I will have to find a spacer to move the mount out about 1/2"


Tripower gauge pod w/ Dual EGT and Airfuel gauge


Corner balancing and Alignment:

Pictures of her on the rack getting a corner balance and alignment:

On the scales:

Alignment time, look at that big ass wing!

Here I am setting front camber and caster, Brian (aka wilson hiding behind the tire)


She came in at 2918 with 250 lbs of weight to balance out for me so she is right at 2668 lbs without my oversized ass. We dialed in a 50/50 split on the corner weights and for the first time the rear weighs more than the front. Split front to rear is 49.3% front, 50.7% rear. It must be the big wing making down force even when the car isn’t moving.

My alignment specs are as follows:
Front Camber -2.2
Front Toe .14
Caster 5.1
Rear Camber -2.3
Rear Toe -.16

Misc
Fuel tank surge cover
Axiom harness bar
RP Nippondenso Fuel pump
Kenne Bell Boost a pump
Widefoot Swaybar mounts
Mazdacomp radiator
Widefoot swaybar mount installed:


Zerk fitting on lower control arm to lube Unotainium bushings:


Strapping her down on the dyno for engine break in and tuning


Brian driving her to Memphis. Well at least that is our joke he really never left the dyno but he feels better when he has a goal.


Four hours later let the tunning begin:


After about 15 heat cycles and 150 to 200 miles of engine break in on the dyno we started tuning. I have the restrictor pills removed to limit boost and allow for a little more break in time without a heave load. We worked our way up the scale through multiple runs. Brian did a masterful job controlling the amount of boost by modulating the throttle. We made 2 or 3 runs at each new level until we were happy with the AFR. When we started the day I pulled the map from my last motor and added 20% more fuel and pulled 5 degrees timing across the entire map less the idle area which had already been dialed in. Tuning the vacuum area required removing about 5% of what I had added to get to my target AFR. I also pulled another 3 degrees out of most the vacuum area based on the EGT’s we were seeing.

In the boost areas I only had to take out about 2%. This tells me that my porting and the use of the Xccessive LIM was the right choice as she breaths very well, especially under boost. Something that I found surprising was with the pills out she was hitting 12psi on the first turbo, then dropping to 10psi when the second picked up. This same exact setup could only muster 7/7 on my previous motor. The first turbo spools up wicked fast. It caught Brian by surprise on one pull when we were just tuning vacuum. He slammed the throttle shut so fast that she shot out a nice fireball. Brian says that my eyebrows still look the same, but I’m not so sure and I keep getting whiffs of burnt hair.

We ended the day with a quick pull just to see what she was putting down and get a look at the torque curve: 267 rwhp and 217 torque at 10psi with Brian letting off at 6800 rpm. I think you will be surprised by the torque curve when you see the dyno sheet, I know we were. Let me just say that in this case I have a hard time calling it a curve.

We still have a lot of tuning left on the AFR and optimizing the timing but over all she is running very good and made her debut at the autocross today.



Off to the races:
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Last edited by Chadwick; 11-25-2008 at 03:26 PM..
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Old 02-29-2008, 07:14 PM   #3
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Great build thread! I personally don't like the 99+ bumper, but the rest of the car is coming along nicely. Great info on the rebuild, and I like the idea of what you're going for with the porting/going for torque.
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Old 02-29-2008, 10:30 PM   #4
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Its looking good Dan, is this the car your going to use the FEED side skirts on?

Jonathan
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Old 02-29-2008, 11:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fikren View Post
Its looking good Dan, is this the car your going to use the FEED side skirts on?

Jonathan
Yes, thanks for the hook up. I need to shoot pictures of the test fit.

Dan
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:46 PM   #6
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Added pictures of the porting, tire fitment, gauges and carputer above. Also wrote a little bit about the porting.

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:54 PM   #7
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what size wheel are you using for the 315's and how much modification did you have to do for the 315's to fit? Was it just an aggressive fender role or did you have to tub it out or flair the fenders some? I'm planning on running 315's on my car with the burnout kit so was curious how much work my body man is going to be in for.
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:58 PM   #8
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Good porting pics, looks good
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fikren View Post
what size wheel are you using for the 315's and how much modification did you have to do for the 315's to fit? Was it just an aggressive fender role or did you have to tub it out or flair the fenders some? I'm planning on running 315's on my car with the burnout kit so was curious how much work my body man is going to be in for.
Coilovers, RP trailing arm and lip rolled. Wheels are 17x10 7.5" backspace, I've order new outside rings to take them to 11".

Dan
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85rx-7gsl-se View Post
Good porting pics, looks good
Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:45 PM   #11
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Very very impressive Dan!

Can you provide more details on the wheel and tire sizing, as well as modifications required for fitment?

thanks!
Rich
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadwick View Post
Coilovers, RP trailing arm and lip rolled. Wheels are 17x10 7.5" backspace, I've order new outside rings to take them to 11".

Dan
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S View Post
Very very impressive Dan!

Can you provide more details on the wheel and tire sizing, as well as modifications required for fitment?

thanks!
Rich

Thanks Rich

Tire on there now is a Kumho Ecsta V710 R compound tire, size is 315/35ZR17, height 25.4". I will be running 275/40ZR17 up front, they are also 25.4" so I will not be picking up any rake from the tires.


Dan
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Last edited by Chadwick; 03-02-2008 at 10:11 PM..
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:47 PM   #13
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Looks REAL nice Dan, I think those ports will work just fine! Good job!

-J
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:29 PM   #14
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Very Nice Dan!

When things settle down, I guess I'll transfer my build thread to here
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Old 03-04-2008, 01:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herblenny View Post
Very Nice Dan!

When things settle down, I guess I'll transfer my build thread to here

Get busy damn it !!!



Dan
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