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Old 09-12-2017, 07:32 PM   #346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmtsu View Post
Looks like that 'tire tech' is installing the lug nuts after the car is down. Brilliant!
He was just torquing them.






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Old 09-12-2017, 11:29 PM   #347
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Brilliant!
I was more or less saying I didn't see the issue, in a smart alec kind of way But I get your point, especially if the wheels are aftermarket without centering rings and especially with flanged seat lug nuts.
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:31 AM   #348
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I was more or less saying I didn't see the issue, in a smart alec kind of way But I get your point, especially if the wheels are aftermarket without centering rings and especially with flanged seat lug nuts.
Who's alec? He doesn't sound very smart...
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:35 AM   #349
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Originally Posted by djmtsu View Post
First step, pull back the boot on the slave cylinder and check for leakage. Second step, pull the trans!

Good times!! At least a trans is super easy on FC's.
should he see if he has fluids in reservoir first? then see if slave cylinder is moving..
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:20 AM   #350
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should he see if he has fluids in reservoir first? then see if slave cylinder is moving..
there is fluid.
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:29 AM   #351
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A little leak goes a long way, and the level might not be affected enough. It is something that should be done, and takes 2 seconds. lol
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:42 AM   #352
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A little leak goes a long way, and the level might not be affected enough. It is something that should be done, and takes 2 seconds. lol
clearly... which is why I said "there is fluid".
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:52 AM   #353
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clearly... which is why I said "there is fluid".
You weren't specific!! Thought you meant there is fluid in the MC reservoir. Lol.

If there is fluid under the slave cylinder plunger boot, replace it and add an SS clutch line if you don't already have one. They're cheap.
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:58 AM   #354
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Originally Posted by djmtsu View Post
You weren't specific!! Thought you meant there is fluid in the MC reservoir. Lol.

If there is fluid under the slave cylinder plunger boot, replace it and add an SS clutch line if you don't already have one. They're cheap.
Oh I think I misunderstood what you were saying to check. I actually have a new slate and an ss line in my mazdatrix cart. Waiting to hear back from Adler about a flywheel and counter weight.
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:45 AM   #355
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I think I may have mentioned that I developed an idle surge. I initially had the screw in the top of the TB backed all the way out after the emissions removal and it held around 900RPM.

Lately its been idling around 1500 and surging to 2000 intermittently. So I was reading on the other forum about it and found one thing that said adjust the screw so I screwed it all the way down and it brought it back to around 900-1000. After I started driving it the idle jumped back up to 1500 but didn't surge any more and then settled back down to 900. Still no surge so thats good.

Do you think by BAC could be bad? I know i dont "need" it but it does help with idle speed. I suppose I could unplug it and see how the car responds.
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:55 AM   #356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project86 View Post
I think I may have mentioned that I developed an idle surge. I initially had the screw in the top of the TB backed all the way out after the emissions removal and it held around 900RPM.

Lately its been idling around 1500 and surging to 2000 intermittently. So I was reading on the other forum about it and found one thing that said adjust the screw so I screwed it all the way down and it brought it back to around 900-1000. After I started driving it the idle jumped back up to 1500 but didn't surge any more and then settled back down to 900. Still no surge so thats good.

Do you think by BAC could be bad? I know i dont "need" it but it does help with idle speed. I suppose I could unplug it and see how the car responds.
There's a procedure for adjusting this screw in the FSM. IIRC, while idling and warmed up you have to ground one of the pins in the green check connector located elsewhere in the engine bay and then adjust the screw so the TPS voltage is within a certain range.

EDIT: In the '89 FSM it's in section F1. Pages F1-15 and 16 cover idle adjustment, pages F1-40 and 41 cover idle control and checking the BAC, and page F1-83 covers checking the TPS. Found here: http://www.wright-here.net/files/man...mission_NA.pdf

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Old 09-21-2017, 09:59 AM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infernosg View Post
There's a procedure for adjusting this screw in the FSM. IIRC, while idling and warmed up you have to ground one of the pins in the green check connector located elsewhere in the engine bay and then adjust the screw so the TPS voltage is within a certain range.
It wasn't the TPS I was messing with. That we got adjusted correctly a while ago. I'm referring to the "idle screw" on top of the throttle body/UIM.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:00 AM   #358
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^ Yep, you can't just turn the screw one way or the other without making the connection on the test connector.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:01 AM   #359
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Kyle, that's what he's taking about. . There's more to it than just turning the screw.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:02 AM   #360
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Check your manual.
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