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Old 01-15-2012, 06:37 AM   #1
joemaddox
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Exclamation Good shops in the Nw.

Rotaryworkz.com

Local oregon shop






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Old 04-03-2013, 12:19 PM   #2
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:31 PM   #3
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why does he call a reseal a "rebuild"? he should probably rephrase that one since it has to have almost all used parts for $750.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:23 PM   #4
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JM Classic Imports.

Pineapple Racing (if you arte lucky enough to have Rob do the work)

Robert lappolis.

Jesus Rodriguez (sp?)

Atkins Rotary.

Jerrys little car shop.


These are not in order, just the good ones
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:30 PM   #5
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The rotaryworkz rebuilds were for those who could not afford the 5k plus motors from the other shops in the nw such as pineapple (who clearly claim on the faq page they use the same motors, seal kit, but for the thousands more you get two new housings, although with the three motors we have torn down from them, there were not new housings??)........... The seal kit was a full soft seal kit and if you note the core provided had to have good hard seals or they had to provide hard seals, or we would at cost..... However the site is down now and the new one is up..

Rotaryworkz was changed due to the title nearly copying another, the staff was fired and the business model changed to suit those who are about the cars and not the business. We still offer those rebuilds, but at 1500$ we offer the full kit with all seals. And then if you want new housings,ect its just at cost.... Compare prices and you will wonder how much they think their assembly time is actually worth...

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Old 10-02-2013, 08:54 AM   #6
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Um... if you consider the hours involved to do a rebuild CORRECTLY and add in the cost of parts required for it, $3,000+ (for a keg alone) is perfectly fair. The time and labor involved to NOT half-ass a rebuild pushes well beyond your quoted $1,500. Hell, it took a good 15 hours of work to prep, clearance, arrange and stack my last rebuild (for the record, I didn't build the engine myself, my friends did and it was built in my home. My friends can/would run circles around you on anything rx-7). I used the last BRAND NEW (from Mazda) 13B-REW in America as my donor engine, so we didn't even need to worry much about cleaning... Add to that time frame the additional costs of consumables (I wanna say the basic seals needed will run you $900) and replacement/repair of out of spec parts and your $1,500 price is looking stupidly cheap. Please find an emphasis on "stupid".

Do you even check wear during rebuilds? You obviously don't check apex/side/corner seal clearances, since you blindly reuse them. The ONLY reason I can see where you would get away with a "rebuild" that just replaces the soft seals is if you had a fresh engine with a soft seal failure, that's only going to account for *maybe* 10% of the engines needing rebuilds though. You think it's acceptable to charge people $1,500 to leave 90% of their problems unaddressed?

I'm not even going into the time and effort required to pull and reinstall an engine, then make sure the car can drive happily away.

I'm sorry, if you wanna kick out cheap-ass budget rebuilds then advertise them as such. Don't compare your "services" rendered to competently done jobs and then harp on how their prices are too high (as a selling point for you). You're offering people Filet Mignon but serving them expired Chuck...
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:49 PM   #7
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I rebuild them using the same parts as every other shop, i check the parts the same as every shop, my motors last as long as every shops.... You may not be competent or capable of doing it for this price, i am. Sorry you have failed.
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:29 AM   #8
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You should call your "rebuilds" a "refresh". A true "rebuild" is not 1500$ sorry that you might think so but your wrong and misleading customers that way. A refresh is a better way to put it.
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:53 AM   #9
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There are plenty of rebuild videos available that will show you step by step how to do it. Why not do it yourself?
Take your time and even use superior housings. Send yer stuff to Goopy.Have it all clearenced and balanced.
Just a thought.
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:53 PM   #10
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Good call Bruce..!
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:43 AM   #11
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Call it a refresh? Why not call every motor not built with new irons, housings, rotors, bearings, gears, pumps, bla bla bla all refreshed motors? If its not new, its used, if it is used it is being rebuilt. Right?

re·fresh (r-frsh)
v. re·freshed, re·fresh·ing, re·fresh·es
v.tr.
1. To revive with or as if with rest, food, or drink; give new vigor or spirit to.
2. To give new freshness or brightness to; restore.
3. To make cool, clean, or moist; freshen up.
4. To renew by stimulation: refresh one's memory.


re·build
verb \(ˌ)rē-ˈbild\

: to build (something) again after it has been damaged or destroyed

: to make important improvements or changes in (something)


Pineapple, fd3s, you , me, atkins.... no one is selling brand new zero mile motors to people for.. well ok, there are a few high end places mazdatrix, rb, ect, but how many people here have bought a 45k turn key 20b or a 14k rew? I doubt many if any.

So all the shops in the usa are doing the same thing.. with the same kit. and that same procedures.... So i cannot do what they can for 1500? Why? Pineapple racing is full of shit, they do not use new housings with each build, i have torn down several of their motors new and used and they fucking bs like every shop in the world does. upsales and product name drops. Its all about the face and no one will question it.

There is no college here for this, no online certification, no regulation. I watch these shops fuck people over and i am not interested in that anymore. I'm going to at least help those who are smart enough to help themselves

So yeah again i will state this clear as day... I can do, i do it and will continue to build motors for 1500$ using the same seal kits, the same tools and the same knowledge as the shops surrounding me. I'm sorry it is what it is. However hating that i am doing this or just not wanting to believe it does not change that i have been and i am.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:07 AM   #12
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if they're advertising their rebuilds as built with new housings and they are not, let them worry about that, lawsuits will ensue if they are. i find it strange that i have never once heard anyone mention this, because it's rather obvious if an engine has new housings or not even without cracking it open.

you can ignore the other thread if you wish but it's just making things look worse for you. a rebuilt engine also should give an average compression figure and tow starting should not be the first resort. i saw your posts on the other forum, but you couldn't answer the phone or call the customer back? of course you can claim it wasn't you, but anyone with an ounce of common sense could tell it was.

everyone has to deal with constructive criticism at some point but owning up to mistakes determines whether you will succeed or fail. by the way, i have never built an engine and let it leave the shop that produced virtually zero compression on ANY rotor. if your procedures are exactly the same as every other shop, yet theirs start with little difficulty, perhaps you need to rethink your claim.

what i suggest is refining your build procedures and put them to actual real world testing before selling them. i include a 3 page nearly 100 step installation manual with any engine i sell, to be sure the installers are at least attempting to do the job correctly. claiming wanting to help the community with affordable rebuilds so far hasn't really seemed to live up to that, my rebuilds have ranged in price from $1200-1600 over the years and not one customer has ever been left feeling like they did not get their money's worth... well maybe one, who happened to overheat his engine after he installed it and wasn't monitoring water temps and tried to get me to pay for shipping both ways even though i covered the reseal for FREE(even though my warranty coverage specifically sais it does not cover overheating due to negligence).

back when RX7 store was selling engines i received one from them for a customer to install, the oil pump gear was about to fall off the pump and this was a $3600 "race" engine with used housings and a street port on it. i had to argue with jason to actually allow me to disassemble the front of the engine to fix the problem, he was adamate that it was "normal", when i removed the front cover guess what? the retaining nut was loose and barely holding the lock washer to the gear/pump. since then have i ever recommended them for a rebuild that i could not get to first? no. even though i am a rebuilder i do refer work all over the country.

if you dive in feet first without checking the water, you might just wind up with broken legs.
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:20 PM   #13
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Typical Joe Maddox build?
0 psi on rear rotor as delivered!!

http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generatio...tempt-1049229/
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:33 PM   #14
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yeah he already ruined his cred here too with his arrogance, and completely ignored that same thread when it was posted for his attention in another area he was spewing in.
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:40 PM   #15
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perhaps he took the mark twain quote to heart.

there's not much so far that can be said about those recent events, you can't screw up a compression test so badly that you get 50psi on one rotor and 0 on the next so something is obviously wrong.

whether or not he is going to pay to ship it, fix it and ship it back remains to be seen and i find it doubtful that will ever happen. so for now all we can do is assume is that all the bullshit is just that and he is moved now to being a thief since he has yet to back up his work or even mentioned that he would do anything.

if he wants to continue he would have to make it right and make that known, otherwise no one is going to trust him.

and i'm not saying this because i prefer to talk shit about people, i don't want to see people screwed over for anyone's self teaching lessons to be paid for by others. learn to do the job before considering it a "business", with rotaries this comes with experience which clearly is lacking.
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