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20B/3 Rotor Conversion.. All things to do with 20B/3 rotor... Post pics, video, tech, etc..

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Old 10-12-2010, 05:39 PM   #1
hIGGI
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Default 20B GT35R FC3S - hIGGI - REcycling project

Where should i start?

I own this red FC since 2003, had about 28 other FC's in meantime but this was keeper. All others were usually bought non-running and sold once fixed or bought for parts and scraped. Or eventually crashed myself and then scraped.

Last 5 years it was running in this setup :

T3 footprint 1.06 A/R GT35R
Greddy V-spec FMIC
K2RD rad
Flex a lite black magic fan
2 stock oil coolers in series, both thermostats working
S5 TII block, rebuilt, streetported
Haltech E6K
2x 680 (GSL-SE) and 2x 1680 injectors
GM pump intank feeding fuel surge tank and Bosch 044 pump feeding stock fuel rails
Crane Hi6 on leadings
Apexi EL2 gauges (all 6)
Apexi AVC-R (oldschool, not the blue stuff)
OS Giken TS2A twinplate clutch/flywheel
S5 TII trans
TII diff with torsen internals
Some brake mods which could be found in my other thread here on forum
Racing Beat swaybars (front/rear)
HKS Hipermax D' coilovers
Apexi N1 catback, 3" downpipe, midpipe

and thats how it stand when i was running it this summer at Czech Drift Series 2010 (last race i entered was 20th of July)

http://smik.euweb.cz/photo/49_cds_most/01.html
http://smik.euweb.cz/photo/49_cds_most/28.html
http://smik.euweb.cz/photo/49_cds_most/32.html

Now, in meantime i found out one local guy (our club member) has a 20B.
He got it with bunch of other engines, he knew its value and he knew for sure he will not be able to get it running. His plan was just 'own it'. I suppose with the rising age, people tend to collect things just for the fun of collecting it, without being able to use it. When i asked if he will sell it to me, i heard NO.

Hmm. Well, lets try something else. By that time i had as well TII cabrio, very high mileage, needing new top, paint, rebuild etc. So kind of rare and valuable and kind of priceless and useless for me, without spending bank on it. It was best thing i could have offered for trade. And yes, it worked. Cabrio left shed and i got 20B.



All strip and teardown pictures are here :

http://rx7.cz/gallery/?Qwd=./3rotor&Qiv=thumbs&Qis=M

Yeah, it was blown, in need of new stat.gear bearings, 2 rotors and 2 rotor housings. My friend is honest and he gave me 2 good FD rotors and rotorhousings when we tore it apart and found out what needs to be replaced.

I ordered 3 new stat.gear bearings, 2 new dowel pins and some o-rings.
I was more lucky than smart and sold E6K and injectors from my 13BT setup and purchased Haltech PS2000 and 3 new white bosch 1680's around $60 a piece.

Since engine was opened, i did small porting on it, water jacket mod and of course, exhaust ports are all FD.

In august i had some spare time, removed 13BT, assembled dummy engine and started testfiting.

Pictures of that could be found here in public galleries :

Day one - http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=3eca92fc38

Day two - http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=d237b8c199

and day three - http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=f48bbddfaf

Not all of it was final, but it gave me idea how it will look and fit.
These 3 days however meant confirmation of my downpipe/wastegate/manifold setup for my current turbo, which i reused from 13BT. Not the nicest job on making 3rd runner from front, but it works.

Since turbo position is same like on my 2 rotor config, intercooler piping stayed same as well. However, radiator had to be moved forward.
Everything else looked pretty simple, no different than any other 13BT build.

Now, from that point, i dont have working camera and pretty much no pictures, but i was not lazy and build the wiring loom, build and installed engine and thanks to BDC and Scott@Haltech got it running and so far have about 800km on it....

I am using stock FC trailing igniters (6 of them) to fire 6 individual coils (out of FC trailing coil packs). I had them, i used them.

For primary injectors, i used stock 20B 550's.

And for swaybar i fitted Z32 (Nissan 300ZX) one which i got for free. 27mm (my RB is 29mm, stock TII is 24mm)

Summer was nice and warm, i worked mostly outside in the shed and if someone will ask, i can tell him that 20B FC build could be 2 month issue even if you dont buy any pre-made parts specific for it.
How much did it cost ? I am guessing around $2k total now and if i will sell my 13BT i will probably have more money than what i had before i started 20B swap.....






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Old 10-12-2010, 09:17 PM   #2
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Sick nasty.
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:26 PM   #3
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Looking good... You drifting in Romania at all....
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Old 10-15-2010, 04:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Looking good... You drifting in Romania at all....
Only in Czech & Slovak Republic so far
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Old 10-19-2010, 03:30 PM   #5
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Pulled primary injectors to clean them in ultrasonic bath, should start it again tomorrow to see if its better.
Camera still not repaired.

Otherwise nothing new, waiting for package with solid diff and subframe mounts to clear customs.
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:49 PM   #6
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Installed solid diff and subframe mounts yesterday, took it for spin today and i still have diff/driveshaft/trans movement....next thing is to put on solid engine/trans mounts and if it does not help, then replace driveshaft and trans....

I wish i had PPS (powerplant subframe) like FD, miata and RX-8
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:24 PM   #7
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Changed mazdaspeed engine and trans mounts and replaced them with solid aluminium mounts. Another testdrive and result is still same, bad noise/movement in the shifter after gear change.

Either my rearend is still moving (car is stretching? ) or driveshaft/trans is bad.
Next thing is to change driveshaft. Transmission will be last....

Energy suspension mounts for 27mm 300ZX swaybar arrived today, will install them next week along with changing driveshaft....

Adjusted map in PS2k little bit for cold starts, but still have a lot of changes to make...

Sorry, still no camera (no pictures/videos)
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:28 AM   #8
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Measured compression today, pretty much all internals are used (apex seals, springs, rotors, housings etc but within specs)

About 1000km's from first start

Rotor 1, Rotor 2


Rotor 2, Rotor 3


Its been snowing today, not sure if i will put any more km's before real winter kicks in....
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:35 PM   #9
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Hey Higgi,

Long time since we talked last. Pretty cool project. Also cool dual rear brakes on your web site
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Old 11-24-2010, 04:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian View Post
Hey Higgi,

Long time since we talked last. Pretty cool project. Also cool dual rear brakes on your web site
Yeah, you should come to CZ again
Thanks
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:46 PM   #11
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Pics from today uploaded :

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=91473858b4
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Old 11-26-2010, 06:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hIGGI View Post
Yeah, you should come to CZ again
Thanks
ya I should. A ton of fun last time...
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:25 PM   #13
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Small update, adapter for EWP and alternator relocation is done.

It might not be pretty, but it was cheaper than buying some $100 adapter and who knows how much for hoses. I reused part of old water pump housing and spent less than $100 on welding and it fits stock FC radiator hoses (upper one has to be cut).

I have lot of good stock FC rad hoses in spare parts bin, being able to use them makes things cheaper and follows the idea of REcycling project....

Pictures of it mounted on car not yet, but its there
Will take them next week when i will get back to car.







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Old 04-05-2011, 01:52 PM   #14
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bigger update

Alternator and EWP mounted and tested about 30km on road, both in vacuum and under boost driving...We developed own controller, but after testing it out and finding it never slows down the pump on 20B because temp never drops under 80C, i ditched. Running pump at constant full speed now, it does not take long to get car warmed up and temperature never falls under 80C. Peak temp measured today = 92C

Oil temp peak = 80C
Fuel temp peak = 41C

Max boost set by wg spring 8,2 psi which it will make at 3000 RPM exactly.
My HKS GT wastegate is leaking, will have to remove it and inspect, even at idle i can clamp atmo vent by hand and feel its leaking...

Boost AFR's in 10.5 or so, fairly safe side, EGT at 800C max (probe after turbo, been running up to 900C on 13BT before)

Car seems to have some power, there are still things to take care of, but in general it feels good. And i find myself using brakes more and harder than before.

One problem i found and need to address is logging fuel pressure. In logs, i can see fuel pressure fluctate a lot, which might be caused by going out FPR (will try another one), by weak pump (1 bosch 044) or lastly by 1680's injectors pulsations when they open up under boost...my fuel pressure sensor is at the end of the fuel rail, barely more than 3 cm's from last secondary injector.....

By looking at log, now i can see i am hitting 97,9 duty cycle on injector, need to find out if haltech is showing that for INJ1 or secondary injectors....or some sort of combination...
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:40 PM   #15
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Some pics of EWP install :







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