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Old 01-05-2015, 06:57 AM   #1
Sh00bs
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Default need help with a 4port

13b in a 79sa

Like a 13bAP, but a variant
GSLSE housings, early 4port irons, dellorto sidedraft (idk what size or how to tell, im a weber & mikuni guy), and im unsure of what rotors. probably gsl se if i had to guess. mechanical dizzy and i cant seem to get er running!

Set timing same as always? drive pulley with that on front cover and then dizzy tick mark?
i believe it's a stock fp still, but i have a fpr on the line anyway, 3psi should be good, eh?
the carb.. if i start with them all the way in, do i want to do 2 turns out then 1/4 turns trying to get it to fire up?

i have fuel and spark

any and all help is appreciated!







Last edited by Sh00bs; 03-12-2015 at 10:55 AM..
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:18 PM   #2
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Since you said it has fuel & spark, are you certain the engine has good compression? If compression is verified as good, next thing that would keep it from starting is out-of-whack timing, or you might have too much fuel (flooded).
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_89T2 View Post
Since you said it has fuel & spark, are you certain the engine has good compression? If compression is verified as good, next thing that would keep it from starting is out-of-whack timing, or you might have too much fuel (flooded).
Not certain. Sounds healthy, but sounds can be deceiving
I'm assuming it's good compression... I'll try resetting the timing
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:08 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Sh00bs View Post
Not certain. Sounds healthy, but sounds can be deceiving
I'm assuming it's good compression... I'll try resetting the timing
Lacking a compression tester, you can do a quick & dirty check that will just verify that you haven't barfed up any apex or side seals. If you just crank the engine with the trailing plug removed (do whatever you need to to prevent the engine from starting before you do it, and do this test on each rotor separately), you should hear a steady rythm of loud "pops" coming from the open plug hole as you crank it over, i.e., should sound like POP-POP-POP-POP-POP.... without any noticable differences in tempo/timing between the pops.

If you hear something like Pop-(silent gap)-Pop-Pop-(silent gap), or some variation instead, you're looking at a rebuild job.

All this check tells you is that your apex & side seals are functional; it doesn't necessarily tell you if the compression is sufficient for combustion.
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Old 01-10-2015, 01:37 PM   #5
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^ done and engine and good and consistent pops.

Pita setting the timing with the fan shroud and all in there :/
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:43 AM   #6
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Runs, but is only running on one rotor.

Front has stuck side seals.. Doesn't want to hold idle on one rotor.

Should I soak it in some marvals mystery oil for a while to try and free it up Orr...?
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:37 AM   #7
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Rear rotor has 115 psi
Front has 20...
Hoping this marvals will help free he side seal
Then let run for a little and see if I can get it warm enough to free up!
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:23 PM   #8
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Marvel worked on my Cosmo engine when it sat for 16 years. When I first got it, there was only one whoosh on both rotors. After a few days, and a few cycles with MMO in the holes, 3 powerful whooses per rotor.

When we took it apart, it was just dirty. The engine actually has the same apex seals in it now after the rebuild!!
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:25 AM   #9
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Marvel worked on my Cosmo engine when it sat for 16 years. When I first got it, there was only one whoosh on both rotors. After a few days, and a few cycles with MMO in the holes, 3 powerful whooses per rotor.

When we took it apart, it was just dirty. The engine actually has the same apex seals in it now after the rebuild!!
Still no luck for me....
Gonna pull the carb off, double check that and then pour ATF into the front housing runners of the intake manifold and turn it over a few times while pouring it in... see if that does anything in a week
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