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Old 11-02-2012, 03:52 PM   #16
RETed
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I'm one of the few who has had no problems with the Centerforce Dual-Friction in a 1987 Turbo II.
The engine has never made over 300bhp.
I would never recommend the clutch to anyone making close to 300hp at the wheels.

The clutch looks like you need to be very careful on break-in.
I happened to break my clutch during a fresh rebuild, so I took it easy over 2,000 miles.

After the careful break-in, I did not hold back, but max power was only 253hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
The car and clutch survived a brutal 30 minute session at the drag strip which involved 17 runs and trying to dial-in my launch.
(The dial-in involved drag launches from 3,000RPM up to 6,500RPM with varying amounts of gas pedal and clutch slippage.)
Even through launches that wheel hopped or "smoked" (i.e. burnt clutch smell), it never failed.

I've pulled the trans 3 times so far, and inspected the clutch (disc) every time.
So far, nothing obviously wrong with it.
Wear was even, but due to all the drag launches, wear is obviously greatly increased.
At 20,000 miles, the clutch was already 3/4 worn.

The car recently put down a leisurely 240hp on a Dynapack dyno, which when adjust for DynoJet #'s is actually more than the earlier 253 level.
240hp Dynapack + 10% conservative adjustment puts it around 265hp DynoJet.
The car has about 30,000 miles on it now, and I expect to replace the clutch soon.

Problem with ACT...
Unless you have GOOD hydraulics, the heavier ACT pressure plate tends to blow your clutch hydraulics.
Even if you have good hydraulics, the heavy pressure plate just wears the stock hydraulics prematurely.
The ACT (pressure plate) also tends to kill pivot balls on FC turbo transmissions.
I do have an ACT...just in case.
...but I'd rather go twin.
I've driven OS Giken and Carbonetics, and they are bad ass.
Superior clamping force...
Less wear&tear on hydaulics...
Easier on the leg...
And it's probably the last clutch you'll ever buy unless you go 20B...


-Ted






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because you're only as good as your backup
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
I'm one of the few who has had no problems with the Centerforce Dual-Friction in a 1987 Turbo II.
The engine has never made over 300bhp.
I would never recommend the clutch to anyone making close to 300hp at the wheels.

The clutch looks like you need to be very careful on break-in.
I happened to break my clutch during a fresh rebuild, so I took it easy over 2,000 miles.

After the careful break-in, I did not hold back, but max power was only 253hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
The car and clutch survived a brutal 30 minute session at the drag strip which involved 17 runs and trying to dial-in my launch.
(The dial-in involved drag launches from 3,000RPM up to 6,500RPM with varying amounts of gas pedal and clutch slippage.)
Even through launches that wheel hopped or "smoked" (i.e. burnt clutch smell), it never failed.

I've pulled the trans 3 times so far, and inspected the clutch (disc) every time.
So far, nothing obviously wrong with it.
Wear was even, but due to all the drag launches, wear is obviously greatly increased.
At 20,000 miles, the clutch was already 3/4 worn.

The car recently put down a leisurely 240hp on a Dynapack dyno, which when adjust for DynoJet #'s is actually more than the earlier 253 level.
240hp Dynapack + 10% conservative adjustment puts it around 265hp DynoJet.
The car has about 30,000 miles on it now, and I expect to replace the clutch soon.

Problem with ACT...
Unless you have GOOD hydraulics, the heavier ACT pressure plate tends to blow your clutch hydraulics.
Even if you have good hydraulics, the heavy pressure plate just wears the stock hydraulics prematurely.
The ACT (pressure plate) also tends to kill pivot balls on FC turbo transmissions.
I do have an ACT...just in case.
...but I'd rather go twin.
I've driven OS Giken and Carbonetics, and they are bad ass.
Superior clamping force...
Less wear&tear on hydaulics...
Easier on the leg...
And it's probably the last clutch you'll ever buy unless you go 20B...


-Ted
this info is as accurate as its going to get.. well said Ted
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:17 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2gslse View Post
LOL.... first weak link found. next weak link tires/traction then diff/ring and pinion
Good to see you back in one piece even if the shop is dark good thing you put it on the rack before you left.

Not bad for a FB its gonna be like driving on ice when its done at high boost
Yup yup.... kept her inside for the storm

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Originally Posted by rxspeed7 View Post
twin plate is the only way to go unless your a pussy......
Thank you....

Quote:
Originally Posted by daleclark View Post
It might be good for other cars, but over the years I've found the Centerforce clutches to be primarily a marketing gimmick. They don't hold much power and aren't that well built, yet they're pricey. No thanks.

Dale
Yeah.... I killed one on my old n/a FC....

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Originally Posted by WE3RX7 View Post
Glad to hear the new ACT is in place. Hopefully you'll have it back before you'e literally driving on ice!
Not likely.... snow on Thursday

Quote:
Originally Posted by one320fc View Post
Makes me feel better I never used that clutch, sorry MC


Quote:
Originally Posted by 730RWHP12A View Post
this info is as accurate as its going to get.. well said Ted
Yup yup.... except I've never had problems with the ACT HD PP, the Extremes are known to kill hyrdo's and pivots, the HD's seem to be ok
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:08 PM   #19
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Same thing happened to my centerforce. let go in spectacular fashion at Mosport DDT in Ontario Canada.

Now run a Stage III Bully Clutch in my 10th AE and a Spec in my 1989.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:45 PM   #20
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I've been running an ACT 6 puck ceramic clutch for a few years.
Last year I had to replace it because the first one had worn out.

My FD doesn't make huge power, about 350 RWHP, but as it is an autox car it gets driven pretty aggressively.

The 6 puck is kind of hard to drive until you get used to it, but once you do, it is a piece of cake.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:08 PM   #21
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I'm an ACT guy, has done well for my 400RWHP car.
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:23 PM   #22
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I love my ACT as well.

Sorry to hear about your Centerforce but thanks for sharing! Thankfully no one was hurt.
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:56 PM   #23
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The centerforce worked well with small power but once the power went up it showed why the pedal effort was so low not enough clamping force. The ACT is in and the car has been dyno'd at 410 Hp to the wheels and now the tires are slipping while it was strapped down.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:58 PM   #24
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Slipping 90% of the way through 3rd on the dyno..... you steer this car ith your foot
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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