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Old 03-01-2017, 04:43 PM   #121
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So instead of adding turbo, add lightness? Why not both?
Money?

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Trailer! Werd, the MAP sensor is probably NOT going to be the way to go, although it may help with some blending at idle if the PS1k will allow that. Otherwise it's just Alpha-N because physics. Just gotta make sure you've got a rock solid TPS sensor and mounting for it.
I don't have one (yet)! Stupid U-haul won't let me use their trailers unless my tow rating is 5000 lb (it's 4500 lb). But if you're serious I can find a way.

Is there some way to utilize the MAP just for fuel correction for like altitude and ambient conditions? Like not load-based tuning but just simple corrections? The TPS is a Haltech (GM?) three wire unit.


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Spec's on the internals?
S5 non-turbo rotors, RX-8 e-shaft and gears, S4 TII irons, S5 TII housings, and OEM Mazda seals (upgraded to FD corner seal springs) except NRS ceramic apex seals. It's got a large street port from Defined Autoworks geared more toward top-end power. Racing Beat pulley up front and their aluminum flywheel out back and everything's been balanced by Mazdatrix.






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Old 03-02-2017, 08:32 AM   #122
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Money?
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I don't have one (yet)! Stupid U-haul won't let me use their trailers unless my tow rating is 5000 lb (it's 4500 lb). But if you're serious I can find a way.
Everytime I needed a trailer from U-Haul I always had a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 w/tow package and then I would show up with a 1998 XJ, 5k tow but they wouldn't let it slide, and I was always towing a Miata

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Is there some way to utilize the MAP just for fuel correction for like altitude and ambient conditions? Like not load-based tuning but just simple corrections? The TPS is a Haltech (GM?) three wire unit.
I would have to go through the software again but there should be some baro correction if using Alpha-N

The sensor should be ok, my concern would be the linkages and the instal. The projay and rotary works TB are notorious for having too much slop and they just turn out to be a fucking nightmare to tune. Almost as bad as a microwrech and their whole strategy using the TPS to bounce between maps for crank, idle, and cruise.

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S5 non-turbo rotors, RX-8 e-shaft and gears, S4 TII irons, S5 TII housings, and OEM Mazda seals (upgraded to FD corner seal springs) except NRS ceramic apex seals. It's got a large street port from Defined Autoworks geared more toward top-end power. Racing Beat pulley up front and their aluminum flywheel out back and everything's been balanced by Mazdatrix.
Damn, should be able to get past 200rwhp with that. I'm assuming the redline is somewhere in the 9500-10000k range?
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:54 AM   #123
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Time to get this moving again! I got a good amount of hours work in this weekend and the chassis wiring is 99% complete. I just need to do the reverse wires. I had a slight hiccup with the CPU and the OEM alarm but it turns out I just needed to permanently ground a lead I had previously removed. I can now retain the stock door chime/ignition reminder without having the horn go crazy every time I open the door.

I've got the harness and seating positions sorted so now I need to figure out a carpet solution and the interior can go back together.

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The sensor should be ok, my concern would be the linkages and the instal. The projay and rotary works TB are notorious for having too much slop and they just turn out to be a fucking nightmare to tune. Almost as bad as a microwrech and their whole strategy using the TPS to bounce between maps for crank, idle, and cruise.
I haven't had it apart in a while but I seem to recall it being pretty snug. I'll have to pull the TB again before I'm done so I'll check it out.


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Damn, should be able to get past 200rwhp with that. I'm assuming the redline is somewhere in the 9500-10000k range?
Yeah, the plan is to keep it at or below 10,000 RPM. If it's still making power above that I'll get longer air horns or something to shift the power curve. Although the engine is balanced I don't trust the transmission at those speeds. I may find myself looking for a replacement in the near future.
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Old 05-09-2017, 12:32 PM   #124
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Yeah, the plan is to keep it at or below 10,000 RPM. If it's still making power above that I'll get longer air horns or something to shift the power curve. Although the engine is balanced I don't trust the transmission at those speeds. I may find myself looking for a replacement in the near future.
I've been curious about the transmission issue with the higher rpm applications. What do you have in mind for a replacement? Could the factory NA trans be rebuild to deal with it?
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Old 05-09-2017, 01:05 PM   #125
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I've been curious about the transmission issue with the higher rpm applications. What do you have in mind for a replacement? Could the factory NA trans be rebuild to deal with it?
They can be rebuilt assuming the housing(s) isn't cracked, which I've seen happen. I think S5 N/A RX-7 had the highest horsepower engine in front of this particular transmission. OEM-wise the Miata added a double-synchro'd second gear and helical reverse gears in the 90's but I think was it in terms of revising. Maybe there are some upgrade parts available in the Miata aftermarket world.
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:07 AM   #126
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The only thing preventing me from finishing the interior is the carpet. My original '89 had the black interior, which I preferred so I kept everything that wasn't somehow connected with the automatic seat belts. This '86 came with the gray interior. It was easy enough to paint all the plastic trim but I'm left with the gray carpet. I tried my hand at dying last night. Unfortunately all I succeeded in doing was dying the edging.



Even then, up close the edging looks to be more a very dark purple instead of black.



I used liquid Rit dye with the hottest water available to me. I know dying plastic (nylon? rayon?) requires high heat and apparently this wasn't enough. I had no way of keeping the heat up over the hour the carpet was submerged so that probably didn't help either.

So now what? I don't want to leave the carpet as is. I thought the black upper/gray lower look might work with the dark edging but I'm not sold. Leaving the carpet out isn't something I want to do. I have a bunch of black vinyl and fabric spray paint I could try. It worked well enough on the vinyl door pieces. I'm not to concerned about texture. I just don't want the color to rub off.
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:19 AM   #127
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One of our local guys dyed his grey carpet black successfully. He used a kiddie pool and a shitload of dye. It turned out really good. I'll see if I can get some more info for you.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:56 PM   #128
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One of our local guys dyed his grey carpet black successfully. He used a kiddie pool and a shitload of dye. It turned out really good. I'll see if I can get some more info for you.
I'm curious what he did to make it work. The biggest difference between what I did and what I've read most online is the length of time the carpet was submerged. I followed the dye instructions of 30-60 minutes (I did one hour) but I've read some people leaving the carpet soaking for as much as a week.

I decided to put more trim in as a test. I don't know, maybe the two-toned look could work...



I wasn't planning on putting the side carpet pieces in but after this I think I'm going to have to. I just need to find something to do with the tops where the speakers used to be. It wouldn't be hard to just make a lid out of something but a big part of me wants to cut the sides down so the rear damping can be adjusted without any trim removal.
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:28 AM   #129
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You can use spray paint, some folks have used that as well. Myself, I would see if someone
has a black interior being parted out. Carpet is usually not that expensive when parting
and its pretty easy to ship.

I've seen dyed carpets and you can always tell even on the best jobs.
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:36 AM   #130
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You can use spray paint, some folks have used that as well. Myself, I would see if someone
has a black interior being parted out. Carpet is usually not that expensive when parting
and its pretty easy to ship.

I've seen dyed carpets and you can always tell even on the best jobs.
I think the spray is my only option now. I've had some fibers from the carpet sitting in a small jar of bleach for over a day and it's not changed color or disintegrated. If bleach won't affect this stuff no off-the-shelf dye will.

The problem is I have an S4. The only S4's with black interiors are the 10AE versions so interior parts go for big money. The S5 carpet is actually slightly different (narrower) because of the automatic seat belts. Aftermarket is an option but that will run me $200-250 and it'll come with the rubber and jute backing I don't want.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:33 AM   #131
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I think the spray is my only option now. I've had some fibers from the carpet sitting in a small jar of bleach for over a day and it's not changed color or disintegrated. If bleach won't affect this stuff no off-the-shelf dye will.
^I wouldn't be so certain that's the case - chemical reactions that make bleach strip the color out of dyed fabric/synthetic is not necessarily the same as what makes the color take in the dying process itself. You just may need to find the right dye for the material and/or dying process (i.e., more time, heat, etc.)

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The problem is I have an S4. The only S4's with black interiors are the 10AE versions so interior parts go for big money. The S5 carpet is actually slightly different (narrower) because of the automatic seat belts. Aftermarket is an option but that will run me $200-250 and it'll come with the rubber and jute backing I don't want.
Didn't know that, too bad the S5 carpet won't fit - black seems pretty common on the S5's. When I got my S5, I wanted to retrofit to the S4 manual seat belts in and ditch the S5 motor-mouse belts, only to find too much of the interior bits were changed between S4/S5, making the job a major PITA. Eventually I got used to them
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Old 05-12-2017, 03:27 PM   #132
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If you use SEM interior paint with a stiff bristle brush. Spray your first coat heavy, work it in while wet with the brush, then let it dry, then apply your second coat heavy(will allow you to hit the spots missed) and work it in with the brush, then let it dry completely.

By working it in with the brush, you won't have the crunchy carpet.

My old detailer did this to restore carpet, worked like a charm.

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