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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 03-01-2008, 02:15 AM   #1
circuit theory
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Default Engine wont start Tech

This is from my 3rd gen write up but should be relevant here for the FC`s also.

Ok this is my first tech thread on RCC. I plan to keep my tech threads very simplistic in description and allow those who view the tech to pm me questions or post in here.

Engine wont start, Cranks but wont start, smells like gas, starts briefly but wont idle or stay on, i think i blew my engine, car runs like crap almost like it is running on one rotor.

Ok the above are hopefully phrases that will be caught by a basic search from people with this problem.

This is a write up on how to unflood your engine.

Tools needed= socket wrench, 21mm deep socket, parts cleaner/ brake cleaner/starter fluid, soft wire brush.

Before removing your spark plugs you have two options for unflooding your car. First option is for a limited few.

1: If you engine does start but wont idle you can hold your RPMs at about 3000 rpm and wait for them to smooth out. Then your car should be able to idle.

2: If you car seems close to starting and or you dont have any tools with you, you can try pulling your EGI fuse in the Engine bay fuse box. It is a large fuse. The below pic is from an FD engine bay but the fuse box is very similar to that of an FC.



Pull the EGI fuse and then go back to your car and crank your engine with the gas pedal held to the floor. Do this for about 10 seconds and then repeat once more.

Place the fuse back into the fuse box. Now go and try and start your car as you normally do. If the car seems to start (your rpm gauge flicks above 1000 rpm) then you may need to give it some gas and or flutter the gas pedal to keep the car from dieing. Hold your RPMs at 3000 until you can hear them smooth out.


Ok the above tricks didnt work for you if you are reading this far or you have the proper tools to unflood your car correctly. If that is the case please continue reading.

Here is a picture of the Left side of your engine. The side with the spark plugs.



If you do not know what wire goes to what plug and or they are not marked then please be sure to mark the spark plug wires so that when you remove them from the spark plugs you will still be able to return them to the proper location. The front of the engine is rotor 1 with leading spark plugs on the bottom and trailing spark plugs on the top. The rear rotor at the back of the engine bay is rotor 2 and has the leading on the bottom and trailing on top as well.

Now that your wires are marked or you know where each wire goes you can pull them off of the spark plugs.

This is the point at which you will need a socket wrench and 21mm deep socket. I prefer a short/stubby socket wrench for this job but a larger wrench can work. If your plugs are stuck in there tight then you will need a longer wrench or something to give you more leverage.

TO LOOSEN THE PLUGS YOU SHOULD BE TURNING THEM TO THE LEFT!
This seems so simple but can be disasterous if done otherwise because the plugs are in an aluminum housing and the housing threads can strip fairly easily.

There is no particular order for removing the plugs, just do it in whatever order is easiest for you.

Once you have your spark plugs removed you may find they look something like this. (keep in mind these are race plugs and what I am referring you to is the color of the plugs.)





This looks a lot worse than it is. With a flooded engine you mostly need to give the plugs a chance to dry. I do not recomend the lighter method of burning the excess gas with a lighter. Instead I suggest you spray the tips with parts cleaner and then use a soft wire brush to remove any build up. Once you have cleaned them with a brush, spray them with parts cleaner one last time to get out any debri. They should look like this when done.



Go back to your car now and remove the EGI fuse (the same as pictured at the top of this thread). With the EGI fuse removed crank your engine with the gas peddle held to the floor. You may need to do this for 10 seconds 1 time but you may need to do this 2 or 3 times. You should do this until no gas fumes/ smoke are coming from the engine bay.

You have now unflooded your engine. You can put the spark plugs back in their proper locations. PLEASE BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER TORQUE OR TIGHTEN YOUR SPARK PLUGS! If available you should also coat the spark plug threads with an anti seize paste, grease, etc...

Check to make sure you have returned the EGI fuse to the correct spot and it is secured.

Now you are ready to start your car. The engine may crank a bit longer than normal before it kicks over but should not take more than 5 seconds.

If this doesnt work, you may need new spark plugs or it may be time to look into getting a compression test.

Good luck!






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Old 03-01-2008, 02:23 AM   #2
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Great thread man
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Old 03-01-2008, 06:12 PM   #3
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Nice info. Will surely help others when in need.
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:14 PM   #4
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#1. Why do you all insist on working so HARD? Just pull the fuel pump relay! You can deflood the car without even getting out of the drivers seat!

#2. Series 5s will automatically deflood if you floor the pedal while cranking
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Old 03-04-2008, 09:07 PM   #5
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Fuel pump relay is nice. It still has spark, so when it leans out enough it will just start, and you can plug it back in.

That's the path most people use for an "unflood" switch when they need a band-aid solution to keep a car on the road with hot-start issues etc.
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Old 03-05-2008, 12:23 AM   #6
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The fuel pump relay works on mild floods but not with severe flooding. That and also some cars run small dry batteries that cant sit there cranking for a minute/s waiting for the car to start. Pulling the plugs is imo the closest to a failproof way of deflooding a 13b.
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:33 AM   #7
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i am sure this useful information will help someone.
+1 for taking the time to write this up!
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by circuit theory View Post
The fuel pump relay works on mild floods but not with severe flooding. That and also some cars run small dry batteries that cant sit there cranking for a minute/s waiting for the car to start. Pulling the plugs is imo the closest to a failproof way of deflooding a 13b.
I think we were just pickin' on you for not knowing the FC specific ways to unflood the car. Those methods go right up with the EGI fuse method though as far as how well they work, but they are easier for the same thing. If that doesn't work, then you're pulling your plugs.
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Old 03-05-2008, 10:25 AM   #9
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I dont remember my FD having the fuel pump relay in the same spot as the second gen. Just so people know the Fuel pump relay on a FC is under the dash on the right hand side of the steering colum and it is a yellow and black 6 prong conector. If your good you can unplug it start your car after it floods and plug it back in before it cuts out.

Good Thread
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:55 AM   #10
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What kinda plugs are those?
Those look like 10.5's or iridiums?
No wonder they flood.

For FC's, too bad everyone can't throw away the POS stock ECU and wiring.
I think that's the major cause of these kinds of problems outside of a hurt or tired motor.

Since going with my Haltech E8, I've had ZERO flooding problems unless I start messing around with the cranking fuel maps.


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Old 03-07-2008, 10:21 AM   #11
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good to see you over here ted!
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