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Old 05-03-2016, 01:38 PM   #106
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Hey Zac, looks great man! Digging it it. I would like to see where you ended up with the timing and I definitely want to know what she ended up making for power on the dyno when all is said and done.

Your Ambient Air Intake system - Love it and especially the use of that profile gauge to get started.... going to need to go buy a bigger one of those. When you're done with the sheet metal work what you can do is take some silicone vac line and slit it open and apply to the surface that's going to be nexto to the paint... protection and all

The only thing that I see may be an issue is going to be the air feed from the brake duct opening. I don't think it will force much if any air from the brake duct to the air filter location. It might even create a small vacuum. I would suggest, as Ted has, to take a peek at Pegasus racing and try to find some ducts that you could split off of to feed both the brakes and the air filter.

I'm doing something very similar with my FC right now. Taking two of their dual outlet ducts and using one to cool the oil coolers, and the other is going to the brakes.






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Old 05-03-2016, 02:41 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
For the OP:
That dryer duct will not last.
I tried really expensive silicone ducting with the metal spring in it, and that didn't last!
The spring came away from the silicone part, and all of it collapsed.
If you feel adventurous, try custom fiberglass?
Yeah, it's just temporary. Thanks for the heads up on the silicone ducting, that's what I was going to use. .

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Originally Posted by RETed View Post
Also, Pegasus Racing sells plastic (ABS?) ducts like that, so you can get rid of the heavy, metal adapter thingy that you cut down...
Ha ha that's just a weight weenie idea right there. . the aluminum adapters don't weigh much plus they're stronger thanks though

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Originally Posted by FerociousP View Post
Does it need to be a duct to move out of the way of the headlight?

Why not a "Kustom" AL pipe connecting those two flanges?
This is what I was thinking but haven't tested for clearance yet, I just thought the silicone brake duct would be more than sufficient but from Ted's experiences I guess not. I'll try aluminum pipe next, worst that could happen is I have to notch a little out where the (edit) frame (not plastic trim) of the headlight comes down.
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:06 PM   #108
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Carbon Tubes!

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...on+fiber+tubes


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Old 05-03-2016, 03:18 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Hey Zac, looks great man! Digging it it. I would like to see where you ended up with the timing and I definitely want to know what she ended up making for power on the dyno when all is said and done.
Thanks, I'm pretty stoked to see the results too! Not sure when Ludwig comes to town again but when he's here he can make changes if needed while on the dyno

Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Your Ambient Air Intake system - Love it and especially the use of that profile gauge to get started.... going to need to go buy a bigger one of those. When you're done with the sheet metal work what you can do is take some silicone vac line and slit it open and apply to the surface that's going to be nexto to the paint... protection and all
Yeah, I would like to find a larger gauge. I have the typical 6" gauge, which works but I had to do about four or more overlapping segments to help keep the shape. I like the vac hose idea. I was thinking about that yesterday but was worried the thickness of the hose would be an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
The only thing that I see may be an issue is going to be the air feed from the brake duct opening. I don't think it will force much if any air from the brake duct to the air filter location. It might even create a small vacuum. I would suggest, as Ted has, to take a peek at Pegasus racing and try to find some ducts that you could split off of to feed both the brakes and the air filter.

I'm doing something very similar with my FC right now. Taking two of their dual outlet ducts and using one to cool the oil coolers, and the other is going to the brakes.
I'm glad you mentioned this as it is a worry of mine and I wanted someone else to mention it before planting it in anyone's head at first. To test for any difference I'll monitor IATs with and without the back opening of the OE brake duct blocked off. If I have a difference, which I'm sure there will be I may look into the Pegasus duct inlet Ted mentioned. . We'll see.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:38 AM   #110
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Definitely following. This is something I'll need to figure out in the future as well. I'm hoping my vented hood will keep some of the under-hood temperatures down though.
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Old 05-31-2016, 03:44 AM   #111
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A couple weeks ago I did a little test drive to see if the cooling duct made much (if any) difference to IAT. At DGRR we recorded a little over 120 and with this hole added I noticed a drop of 25 degrees! It's not the best comparison since I don't remember what the ambient temp was in NC as compared to home. That, and I drove on the interstate compared to mountain roads in NC so I'm not certain about it all just yet but regardless there will be some improvement.


I prepped the aluminum sheet, doing as much as I possibly could by drawing a line with my cardboard stencil and cutting it. I didn't have any friends with a metal break so Friday I was able to get this to a fabricator to bend/trim and cut a 3.5" hole for me.


Once bent I was able to get it in the bay where I filed away extra material till I was happy with the fitment. To help prevent scratches I added tape till I was finished since I installed and removed this many many times!


I made some small 90 degree mounting tabs that I riveted in place. The three holes that I made the tabs for are factory holes. Only one of the three holes was threaded so for the other two I added 5mm RivNuts.

and as for this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
When you're done with the sheet metal work what you can do is take some silicone vac line and slit it open and apply to the surface that's going to be nexto to the paint... protection and all
I looked around at the local Advance and told the guy what I was wanting to do and he handed me a pack of clear trim guard with adhesive made for door edges. I hadn't thought of this and was going to go the vac hose route but this seemed too brilliant to pass up and worked quite well since the embedded adhesive kept it in place. . . well except for the one spot where the rubber band is but once the shield is secured in place it's not an issue.


RivNuts and stainless button heads installed.


Next I cut and drilled holes for mounting a top plate.


Since aluminum absorbs heat so well I knew I needed to give this heat shield a fighting chance and I did that by adding this stuff.


My stopping point for the day. . I ran out of rivnuts so I'll finish when I'm back home from work. Once this is finished I'll mock up an intake tube and I'll finally get to do some more testing.
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:13 AM   #112
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Looking Good Zac

I've never seen that clear adhesive lined stuff.... good to know though
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:16 AM   #113
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Thanks!
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:48 AM   #114
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Done with that!
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:19 PM   #115
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looking good
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:53 PM   #116
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Damn good job!

I didn't realize how HOT the engine bay gets until I started killing electronics!
I've killed a Crane Cams HI-6 within a year, and more recently, the heat was killing HID ballasts that I had stuff behind the headlights inside the engine bay.

Once moved outside of the engine bay, the electronics were a lot more happy.
The replacement Crane Cams HI-6 mounted on top of the driver's side brake duct lasted over 6 years!


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Old 05-31-2016, 04:11 PM   #117
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Now for a ducted radiator/vented hood....
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:25 PM   #118
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Looks good. If ya can't duct it.... Fuck it.
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Old 06-01-2016, 01:26 AM   #119
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Thanks guys!
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:37 AM   #120
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You going to sell those? looks good Zach!
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