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Old 02-04-2015, 08:10 AM   #53
infernosg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
I would be more worried about the oil (cooling)...

With very minimal ducting - a LOT less that what you have - we got our race-track FC from normal oil temps during street driving down to under 160F.
This same FC with no ducting was hitting 250F on track with ambients over 100F.
Normally, the thermo-pellet would kick in, but we replaced that with a nut + bolt to have oil flowing through the core full-time.
Don't quote me on this, but that thermo-pellet triggers at around 190F?
Not really a good thing to be cycling the thermo-pellet like that if temps get below...

I believe you're also streeting this FC?


-Ted
It'll only see the street for things like break-in, tuning, trouble-shooting, and driving to/from local meets. It's mostly going to be a weekend track day fun car and will be towed to events (like DGRR, if I ever go) more than about an hour away since it has no A/C, heat, or radio and will be obnoxiously loud.

I also have the thermo-pellet delete but I left the thermostat in the oil cooler. I figure if anything that will be what gets a workout. If that ends up failing I can look into removing it and adding a restrictor to the oil cooler or an aftermarket thermostat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie View Post
My situation is a little different...mine is an FD, dual oil coolers, VMIC and in Colorado LOL. Very dry climate, a little less air density at 6000ft, and summer days are usually between 70-90F, sometimes 100F, and winter days are between 20-60F with the occasional 80F day.

I think even without ducting my coolant is around 180F and oil around 130F while driving in the summer, and in the winter I've seen my coolant at 165F and the oil at 109F. My water temp sensor is behind the thermostat, which should be the hottest point, and the oil temp sensor is at the filter, so that one is going to read cold anyway. Granted you have a different setup, but still something to think about. It's better to err on the side of caution though, and if you need to you can go back and block some like you said. My buddy has a hard time cooling his FC down too.
My setup is similar in regards to location of the sensors but yeah, no turbo so no IC and just the one, big FC oil cooler. I remember reading about the old SCCA IT7 guys using two FC oil coolers in series or parallel without the thermostats to keep temperatures down. I can't remember if they were allowed ducting though so that may be why.
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