Bad idle, Hesitation under load, black smoke

[FRFC3S]

Car is an 89 turbo.

Yesterday:
Car died as I pulled out of a parking spot. When I tried to start it up it turned and compressed but did not start. When I blipped the gas starting it it started but immediately died. I blipped the gas continuously after starting it and it would idle at the rpm that I was romping the gas to. I managed to romp it in first and second gear to a friend's house 2 blocks away. Tons of black smoke. A push start also worked but required to romp the gas to keep it idling.

Now:
Car turns but will not start without pushing the accelerator a little. It will than idle a ROCK SOLID 900 WITH NO BOUNCE. If you ease on the throttle it will slowly gain revs. If you hit the gas too violently the car sputters and dies. I managed to get the car up to 40 mph by easing on the gas the whole way up to it. A line up of cars behind me but oh well. As soon as I tried to go into boost or when I went up this huge hill near my house, the car started to buck and I had to downshift and romp the gas to get up the hill.

I have a check engine light that I never used to have.
Brand new AFM.
Engine is not flooded, I removed plugs and cranked the car for half a minute, compression is good and nice and even pops. An odd scraping noise though. Are those the seals?
No vacuum leaks. I have replaced TID, all intercooler piping, and recently (2 days) removed the rat's nest. Could a mis removed vacuum line be a problem? I drove it for 2 days though no problem?

Before it died in the parking spot I had done quite a bit of on and off driving and 2-3 full throttle runs down the highway.

Earlier that day I had adjusted my TPS, Cold Start, and BAC.

What the heck is going on? I am desperately consulting my Haynes and online FSM manuals as we speak checking voltages on all of my sensors. It's raining out and I don't care, I have a drag race to be at by Wednesday.

The trouble codes are as follows 5,8,10,11,12,15,18,25 and than all the 30+ codes relating to the removed solenoids. 5-18 list all inputs in the engine such as AFM, O2, etc.

[J-Rat]

Jesus! Might just want to go ahead and slave in a spare ECU and see what happens.

[FRFC3S]

Can I use an N/A ECU? I don't have a spare Turbo ECU.

[Rotary_Rocket_87]

Check to see if all the electrical connectors are tight under the hood. My car did something very similar to yours cause the TPS and AIT sensors had come unhooked.

[FRFC3S]

I just readjusted and checked voltage on my TPS so I'm sure that's plugged in. Air Intake Theromsensor I'm guessing? I just checked the voltage on that too. You touch the two prongs of the multimeter on the two prongs of the sensor (polarity doesn't matter) and you are supposed to get a number right? I got "1" ?? But I tested two diff sensors so maybe they are both bad or what?

[J-Rat]

Actually, you would have to check the voltage after the resistance drop, with the red lead on the proper pole of the sensor and the other lead on a chassis ground.

[FRFC3S]

Actually, you would have to check the voltage after the resistance drop, with the red lead on the proper pole of the sensor and the other lead on a chassis ground.

Thank you J-Rat. I will try that and I will try retiming it and get back to you guys. Please post any further ideas.

[Ender]

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment
Make sure you use the S5 instructions. Your TPS could be bad, and a reading of '1', with the 1 being all the way to the left of the multimeter screen, means that the resistance is either infinite (meaning no continuity, no connection) or you are using too low of a setting. If it's '1' all the way to the right then you are probably using too high of a setting on the meter and you should turn it down until you get a non-one reading or you are as low as it will read.

[FRFC3S]

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment
Make sure you use the S5 instructions. Your TPS could be bad, and a reading of '1', with the 1 being all the way to the left of the multimeter screen, means that the resistance is either infinite (meaning no continuity, no connection) or you are using too low of a setting. If it's '1' all the way to the right then you are probably using too high of a setting on the meter and you should turn it down until you get a non-one reading or you are as low as it will read.

Please read the original post. The TPS was adjusted using that method already. The IAC is what read 1, and I'm guessing because I measured it incorrectly.

I'm getting sick of people suggesting the TPS. It is perfectly adjusted and perfectly within spec with 0 dead spots.

[Ender]

I did, it's just that the TPS can be problematic even if it seems to test out ok. I and others have had it happen before.

You may be on to something with vacuum leaks, they're very common and can cause really weird problems. I found the most help from a tool that plugs the intake and has a pressure gauge mounted to it, you can pressurize the intake with the adapter that's on it. I tried a few different methods of finding vacuum leaks and none of them were a fourth as effective as doing it with this tool:
http://boostpro.net/prodtester.html
You'd want one of these two for the best results:
Boost Leak Tester (Gauged)
3" Diameter
With Tire Valve Adapter
$20 + $4.60 shipping

Boost Leak Tester (Gauged)
3" Diameter)
With Male Compressor Coupler
$20 + $4.60 shipping

And here's a DIY option that you can modify to make work for the '7:
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Maint/TT/IntPresTest/

[FRFC3S]

It is not vacuum leaks or TPS.

[FRFC3S]

It's not timing, we unloosened the nut on the CAS and swung it both ways while I struggled to keep the car running. Would a blown coolant seal make it run like this? I blow a little white smoke on warmup.

[FRFC3S]

Could it be the Pressure sensor? It seems to only cut out when the load on the engine nears boost.

[djmtsu]

I am under the impression that if the boost sensor is bad, it would thrown the CEL. Is your light on?

Also, I have never heard of the the boost sensor failing (on its own) on an FC.

Oh, and I don't have that many CEL codes on my S5 emissions removal.

[FerociousP]

you can use a n/a ecu... you just drive easy and can't boost... that would be a good way to test the engine lights..

[FRFC3S]

It's not all the codes after 30. It's only the ones that pertain to emmissions. I believe it's 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35. Each one just says "____ Solenoid" for whichever solenoid it is and the last one is ACV unplugged or something.

SO N/A ecu will work? I'll try that.
Somebody told me I'm in limp mode due to an MOP failure, is this accurate?

[FRFC3S]

O2 sensor at the computer became severed from the harness. I resoldered it and it started right up. Blew it's normal white smoke and went through the cold start. Deflooded itself and runs good. It is pulling significantly less vacuum at idle than it used to. Compression test in a couple hours when the rain lets up.